New Hazard Switch Electrical Issue

jbrubaker001

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So, have a new issue that I need some help figuring out. I just replaced my old 8 prong hazard switch/button and the following issues creeped up:

- turn signals do not work
- none of the rear lights work (brake, turn, reverse, marker)
- when I have the ignition in the accessory position and partially push in the hazard switch, the front headlights come on

I have not made any other changes. None of the items above were an issue before changing the hazard switch.

Help!

John

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HB Chris

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Front of switch says 72 with resistor on back and not 69 I hope. It doesn’t affect headlights, reverse lights, brake lights so I think you must have a ground issue.
 

teahead

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Ya, compare your new and old switches.

W/the old one back on, no issues other than the original issue (which was what?)?
 

jbrubaker001

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Well….I tossed the old one so not able to compare now but I did compare for looks before I installed the new one and they looked the same. Current one states 72 on the front and has the resistor on the back. I didn’t have any ground issues before so not even sure where to start. Thoughts?
 

jbrubaker001

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I just checked my the ground to my battery, cleaned up, straightened out and I now have marker lights in back and reverse light works. Still an issue:

- brake lights do not work
- turn signal does not work (no flasher)
- hazard switch used to light up on old switch - new switch does not light up now when open or pushed in (this didn’t happen before my checking main ground either)
- still have issue when key is in accessory position and partially push on hazard, I hear a clicking sound in the fuse box area next to the steering column, the red oil light comes on and the UPM light comes on.

Any help?

John
 

HB Chris

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Clicking is the load shed relay above hood release cable, that is normal when key turned on. You have headlights, dash lights (which lights up hazard button)? I wonder if it a ignition switch going bad, the electrical part on the back.
 

teahead

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Arde

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What was going on with the old one you tossed out?
What happens if you do not plug the new one in at all?

Is the new one brand new or used? Is it possible you tossed out the new one and are using the old one :)?

The most notorious failure mode is that the markers do not work when the the hazard switch fails because the markers get their 12V through the switch when the switch is in the OFF position. That is a bad design, compounded by the fact that when the plastic wears it fails in the hazard lights blinking state.

I do not think the switch participates in ground distribution, so ground gremlins should be independent of this change.

Partially pushing the hazard switch is not a good idea because of said 12V steering where the switch passes 12V to one system while disconnecting another. Partially means that you can randomly pass one without quite detaching the other one, and all combinations in between. You would not do that to window switches, to engine starter, or even to the radio. Be impartial and use switches in one of two states. Else you will need an exorcist, not an electrician...
 

jbrubaker001

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First, I want to say thanks for all of the help. Now a few answers/thoughts:

- I am going to seriously consider the flasher upgrade. A $5 EL12 is a lot cheaper than the $100+ original. Is there an easy way to test the current hazard switch to make sure it is not part of the issue?
- The one installed is the new one. There is no doubt. I tossed the old unit because it would no longer click in place. The mechanical function was broken (plastic worn out). I did not have any electrical issues and it did light up.
- Does the fact that the new hazard switch does not light up give any clues?
- Unplugged the new hazard switch and all lights continue to work and still no flasher function.
- thanks for note on partial push

Just to eliminate a culprit, I did check the bulbs. Marker lights work. Reverse lights work. Brake lights and turn signal lights do NOT work but they are in physical working condition. Bulbs are not the issue.

So, I guess the next step is to start going through the electrical schematics to see what might be going on. Is it coincidence that the hazard and turn signals do not work or is this a bad hazard relay? It it coincidence that brake lights and turn signal lights do not work or are they tied to a circuit together?

Any help is appreciated,

John
 

Sean Haas

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I just did the flasher upgrade on my Bavaria, which worked great - to make it easy here is the plug map (hat tip to Dan Wood for providing)

1633021428072.png

The blue squares are the end of the connector as you look at it. Doesn't solve your current problem though (no pun intended.)
 

teahead

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Also, besides the mechanical hazard switch snafu, everything else worked previously? Brake lights, etc.?
 

jbrubaker001

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Welcome back - a few answers to unanswered questions above:
- headlights and dashlights work - these have never been in question
- prior to new switch - did not have any electrical issues
- old switch is no longer in the bin :( - I've been doing this long enough, I know I should have kept until all bugs worked out...not sure what I was thinking that day
- once I have completed the
- restating question from above - Does the fact that the new hazard switch does not light up give any clues?

I unfortunately, did not have any time this weekend to complete any testing. I decided to work on exhaust replacement on another vehicle I own. It was much easier and more satisfying that tracking down electrical issues.
 

jbrubaker001

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Ok, so I completed the new flasher upgrade. Still no flashers, no brake lights and new hazard switch does not light up. Does anyone have any insights on where to start testing?
 

Mot27cars

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What about if someone sent you an old one and see if it changes things. I’ll see if I have one. Maybe someone else knows for sure they have one to lend.
 

jbrubaker001

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Well, that would be great. I’ll try anything. I’ve been going through all wires looking for ground issues and everything looks solid so far.
 
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