New Pierburg Fuel Pump Fouls Linkage

TedS

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Has anyone had this situation? The Weber linkage is in the way of the newer style Pierburg fuel pump. I can get it on there but to tighten it down all the way puts pressure on the linkage.

UV3fMyu.jpg
 

TedS

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I have the one that everyone sells. I tried searching long neck version and "the one that will fit" but nothing.
 

TedS

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The insulator is there along with the stock push rod.
 

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The only one I see listed under this part number:
13 31 1 260 677​
PIERBURG​
Fuel Pump Cross Ref: 7.02242.19.0​

tNyO7fw.jpg



It must be an issue with the linkage if I'm the only one with this problem.
 

TedS

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Thanks for the input nonetheless.
Knowing this isn't an normal issue motivates me to examine the rest of what's going on. I think the pads that those eye bolts sit on (left side in my first picture) might be the wrong way around. I think they're supposed to sit on posts that protrude from the manifold.
There are some good pictures here:

I'll go out after work and try to flip them.
 
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TedS

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The mount for the throttle rod seems correct and reversing the pads does nothing as they're symmetrical. When tightening everything back up I pulled on the rod and took up any slack which improved it slightly. All the pictures I've seen have the pump behind that rod. Finally, I ground down a bit of the pump body and screw so it's not putting so much pressure on the rod.

Oh yeah, and since you suggested it, bavbob, I did call Jim @ Mesa. He gets them from BMW and doesn't have any in his shop right now- the last one was ordered last year some time. He said he'd call them and ask what they look like and call me back (not going to happen).

GiUVHvB.jpg
 

TedS

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Well let's see... get comfortable everyone... it was a dark and stormy night...

When I first installed that new pump the engine went from not idling at all to a nice, smooth fast idle. I blipped the throttle to slow it down and it settled into a higher than normal smooth idle. I backed off the idle screws a turn and everything was great. Later, I went to start it again and it was back to the way it was- no idle but give it gas and it revs. Turn the idle screws in to get it to idle and it kind of fluctuates between rough and almost dying.
I measured the pump push rod and it's about 1mm short so I have one on order. In the meantime and sanded down my extra spacer about 2mm with no improvement.

The pump pictured is one I bought at the outset of this project assuming it was an exact replacement for the smooth (no screws) original. After the fitment issue I did some searching and found one HBChris had suggested (I got it off of Ebay for less but this link might last longer)- https://www.autosurplus.com.au/bmw-2800-3.0s-3.0cs-3.0csl-525-mechanical-fuel-pum
This one fits a little better but no improvement in running. Three pumps, all the same.

I've now moved on to the carbs. Replaced the float needles, checked float height, replaced all rubber lines going back to the tank, tried running it with/without fuel cap (no rush of air), and looked at the sender- seems fine.

Could be a vacuum leak but I used hylomar blue on the spacers and replaced the throttle shaft seals with tiny little bearing sets with no improvement.

I'm still waiting on my driveshaft so this all is being done an hour here, an hour there.
 

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Good point. I do have it removed except for the pipes that now just connect the two intake manifolds. The outlet is capped. I'll double check with some brake cleaner the next time I start it up.
 

TedS

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@bluecoupe30! - thanks for the pictures! Nice and clean in there! Looks the same- bottom part of fuel pump resting on the throttle shaft.

Here's the fuel pump I linked previously. It fits a little better.

BrFKNb7.jpg
 
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