New VDO gauges in my dash
- Thread starter deQuincey
- Start date
pamp
Well-Known Member
Parameters
Me too....winter here. Preliminary....Start...14 to 14.6 (I was expecting more rich here, cold start inject and then aux air in play....turns out pretty lean) Warm idle is high 13 to low 14....close to lamda on the rich side. Running I see mid 12's to mid 13, on the pedal, then back towards lean on deceleration. Still OK but leaning towards rich for sure. I have always done the d-jet tuning by feel, sight and especially smell. Plug reads. Timing and dwell spot on. This should be interesting as I get more time to play. Not much one can adjust.....mixture at the box. The rest is proper TPS adjust and good injectors....all other bits playing well together. Rather be too rich than too lean! Gas analyzers are coming down in price....I brought the tune in to the best of my abilities prior to seeing any of this new feedback and have not changed a thing. Summer will tell me more.
Me too....winter here. Preliminary....Start...14 to 14.6 (I was expecting more rich here, cold start inject and then aux air in play....turns out pretty lean) Warm idle is high 13 to low 14....close to lamda on the rich side. Running I see mid 12's to mid 13, on the pedal, then back towards lean on deceleration. Still OK but leaning towards rich for sure. I have always done the d-jet tuning by feel, sight and especially smell. Plug reads. Timing and dwell spot on. This should be interesting as I get more time to play. Not much one can adjust.....mixture at the box. The rest is proper TPS adjust and good injectors....all other bits playing well together. Rather be too rich than too lean! Gas analyzers are coming down in price....I brought the tune in to the best of my abilities prior to seeing any of this new feedback and have not changed a thing. Summer will tell me more.
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pamp
Well-Known Member
Afr
Just the AFR. Being D-jet, the fuel pressure should be constant 30 psi. Can't see the need for a gauge other than periodic checks of the regulator setting. Nothing radical to the engine has been done to my knowledge (stock cam) 3.3 block. I used the AEM Performance Electronics
unit #34-4100 UEGO Gauge. (www.AEMPOWER.com) Under $200 if I recall. I slotted a small amount of sheet metal from the tunnel behind the shifter to accept the connector for the O2 sender. I did take pictures of this but they are not very good.
Just the AFR. Being D-jet, the fuel pressure should be constant 30 psi. Can't see the need for a gauge other than periodic checks of the regulator setting. Nothing radical to the engine has been done to my knowledge (stock cam) 3.3 block. I used the AEM Performance Electronics
unit #34-4100 UEGO Gauge. (www.AEMPOWER.com) Under $200 if I recall. I slotted a small amount of sheet metal from the tunnel behind the shifter to accept the connector for the O2 sender. I did take pictures of this but they are not very good.
pamp
Well-Known Member
Afr
I have been putting pieces in place as to the eventuality of running stand alone EFI (such as megasquirt) The O2 sensor, B35 thermostat housing (has the additional sender ports) I do not have the room for the toothed wheel I have, A/C compressor and bracket limits what one can do here unless I do a delete, not in the program. I am kind of sitting on the fence here for sure as sfdon and sven (among others) work the systems to maturity. On the one car I have ridden in with M/S, the A/F numbers seemed to be jumping around a bit. The O2 sender located on one down pipe for ease of the install. I wanted to see if I could get stable numbers running with the sender as would be on a B35 using the 635 csi exhaust as a model. I built two merges, one for my own pipes and another to fit stock pipes. All in the interest of the science.
Here is another tool I am considering:
www.ebay.ca/itm/280681199112?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_2558wt_1141
Trying to preserve the classic EFI for as long as possible, with a more scientific approach, DIY
I have been putting pieces in place as to the eventuality of running stand alone EFI (such as megasquirt) The O2 sensor, B35 thermostat housing (has the additional sender ports) I do not have the room for the toothed wheel I have, A/C compressor and bracket limits what one can do here unless I do a delete, not in the program. I am kind of sitting on the fence here for sure as sfdon and sven (among others) work the systems to maturity. On the one car I have ridden in with M/S, the A/F numbers seemed to be jumping around a bit. The O2 sender located on one down pipe for ease of the install. I wanted to see if I could get stable numbers running with the sender as would be on a B35 using the 635 csi exhaust as a model. I built two merges, one for my own pipes and another to fit stock pipes. All in the interest of the science.
Here is another tool I am considering:
www.ebay.ca/itm/280681199112?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649#ht_2558wt_1141
Trying to preserve the classic EFI for as long as possible, with a more scientific approach, DIY
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pamp
Well-Known Member
Interesting
To see if the DIY can tune this way....
http://www.omitec.com/en/support/tech-tips-gen/gas-analyzer/
To see if the DIY can tune this way....
http://www.omitec.com/en/support/tech-tips-gen/gas-analyzer/
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
Just to add to this thread, this is what I've done as I agree the standard instrumentation isn't enough!
Sorry for the rubbish pic but you get the idea.
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz206/dj_efk/BMW/bmw23.jpg
Sorry for the rubbish pic but you get the idea.
http://i828.photobucket.com/albums/zz206/dj_efk/BMW/bmw23.jpg
A thought. My e39 has a small orange set of lights in the overhead reading light, which shine through two small holes in between the three black plastic bars that operate the lights. My audi AllRoad had these in red. In both cases, the lights go on with the dash lights and throw a orange glow down onto the shifter area. With the first of these gauge installations, it would seem to me you could easily wire up a set of these orange lights and have a nice warm glow on the area underneath your gauge cluster. The parts could be scrounged from an e38 or e39 reading lamp:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-BMW-E39...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc97f5322&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-BMW-E39...Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc97f5322&vxp=mtr
uuuuups !
no, thank you !
...i know those lights, they are cool and very helpful (i own a 2008 audi a4 avant), but i cannot even imagine them in the coupe
anyway thanks for the idea
regards
dj_efk
Well-Known Member
Sorry I never replied to your post DeQuincey - The Ammeter is the one you can't see properly in the picture, it measures 30 amps either side of 0, when I first start the car from cold it goes off the scale for 20 seconds or so before coming back within range.