Notice for all Newbies considering buying an E9 coupe / rust warning / steps to inspection / BEFORE YOU PURCHASE
- Thread starter paul cain
- Start date
Brace yourself folks! Wait at least 30 minutes after eating before watching. This is why it is a good idea to remove your rockers, and to get a PPI.
I went into my budget-purchase knowing full well that the rockers would be toast. I know what I’m in for, and I look forward to the journey!
Note the creaking noise is my suspension, not my rockers!
I went into my budget-purchase knowing full well that the rockers would be toast. I know what I’m in for, and I look forward to the journey!
Note the creaking noise is my suspension, not my rockers!
This surely is a weird place to rot:
It is a good thing these cars are beautiful and appreciating...otherwise they would all be in the same place with the rest of the early unibody cars.
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This is because both front fenders are replaced on the Bring a Trailer car. This is plastic padding filler at or near the weld that is now giving up.This surely is a weird place to rot:
@paul cain and @Markos Many thanks for bringing this topics, sharing knowledge and pictures! Relly good job!
Based on information above my E9 paced both ... winter driving and parking outside (probably under some kind of top - not directly)
Before I decided to go with purchase I was considering to buy E9 after body shop repair but it was even worse. Repair has been doe by shop specializing probably in assurance-like repairs. After I verbally decided not to buy it, seller told me the car was rejected to be painted by five different paint shops!
Later on body shop expert told me he would prefer to bring E9 from rust but he refuse to repair after other body shop as there will be no reference.
In the end I selected an E9 which is poor but looks original (except right front suspension tower). So this is good in a bad (or opposite) situation but I spent not much for a car.
Off topic...
It was interesting to see on the movie from Markos usage of home appliance type of protection in the fusebox
Based on information above my E9 paced both ... winter driving and parking outside (probably under some kind of top - not directly)
Before I decided to go with purchase I was considering to buy E9 after body shop repair but it was even worse. Repair has been doe by shop specializing probably in assurance-like repairs. After I verbally decided not to buy it, seller told me the car was rejected to be painted by five different paint shops!
Later on body shop expert told me he would prefer to bring E9 from rust but he refuse to repair after other body shop as there will be no reference.
In the end I selected an E9 which is poor but looks original (except right front suspension tower). So this is good in a bad (or opposite) situation but I spent not much for a car.
Off topic...
It was interesting to see on the movie from Markos usage of home appliance type of protection in the fusebox
I didn’t stick it in there but glass fuses were actually used in autos, particularly american cars. Hella still makes them.
Off topic...
It was interesting to see on the movie from Markos usage of home appliance type of protection in the fusebox
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Thanks for info! You got me!
I did a quick research and:
US cars were (from obvious reasons) not popular behind Iron Curtain despite some used by US Embassies.
I'm recalling Oldsmobile Toronado parking two steets away in 90's.
It was a car from outer space with rolling headlights! After years I know it was not the only US car with such a feature.
I did a quick research and:
US cars were (from obvious reasons) not popular behind Iron Curtain despite some used by US Embassies.
I'm recalling Oldsmobile Toronado parking two steets away in 90's.
It was a car from outer space with rolling headlights!
After years I know it was not the only US car with such a feature.
Thanks for info! You got me!
Thanks. I just want to avoid any embarrassment caused by an incorrect fuse in my show car.
If I may add for #1 & 3, made a small cross section of the front fender for understanding and added some pictures to illustrate what to expect for #1 & 3 when you take the front fender off.
@BMW3.0CSi
Very clear picture! Many thanks!
Now I it is clear for me how it was designed! What a design.
Very clear picture! Many thanks!
Now I it is clear for me how it was designed! What a design.
It is not so weird, when you consider that in this spot the front fender panel ends, and is welded to the bottom window frame. Normally all leaded up, but it can rust out from the windshield, and creep along the line. The right side actually follow pretty accurately the quarter panel end. Or, as mentioned above, it may have replaced poorly. (Which was an investment that likely prevented the car from being scrapped in the 90's)This surely is a weird place to rot:
If I may add for #1 & 3, made a small cross section of the front fender for understanding and added some pictures to illustrate what to expect for #1 & 3 when you take the front fender off.
One thing to note is at least with the first third of the fender, you can run your fingers up and over that channel. One thing I have learned is that my passenger fender was replaced, and I have a gap across the entire length. I would like to know if others can run their fingers through the entire gap or if this lip meets the fender top above the center of the tire.
Also, here is a cross section of the windshield frame where the front fender meets the body. The front fender is spot welded the the windshield frame, and extends about 4+ inches imboard. In the pic below the fender metal is present, and the windscreen metal is present. The metal that should be directly under the fender has rotted away:
And, sounding like a broken record, get an electronic film thickness gauge. Learn where there was lead on the originals, then use the meter to check for body filler underneath pretty paint. The $250 you spend could save you $2500.
I can confirm that the lip meets the fender top just before the center of the tire, seen from the front.
I purchased my car knowing it had rust (to what extent unknown) I committed myself to doing a total tear down, bit the bullet, and paid the bucks to do it properly................I now have peace of mind knowing that rust doesn't exist anymore. At the same time I photographically documented everything so the next owner also has peace of mind. once your committed there is no turning back (unfortunately)
once your committed there is no turning back (unfortunately)I purchased my car knowing it had rust (to what extent unknown) I committed myself to doing a total tear down, bit the bullet, and paid the bucks to do it properly................I now have peace of mind knowing that rust doesn't exist anymore. At the same time I photographically documented everything so the next owner also has peace of mind.
Agree. This is the way many of this forum users took including the one writing these words
.Cars repaired (quite often only painted) cheap are in the end worse and even more expensive than the original ones but requiring full restore.
In few years back it still was not worth to go this way probably but due to the fact E9 are more and more rare it is a way worth considering once can do a lot alone and has some experience. Quite obvious.
How about a diagram of where these cars are NOT prone to rust?
How long did it take?I purchased my car knowing it had rust (to what extent unknown) I committed myself to doing a total tear down, bit the bullet, and paid the bucks to do it properly................I now have peace of mind knowing that rust doesn't exist anymore. At the same time I photographically documented everything so the next owner also has peace of mind.