What is the best way to clean and protect engine parts like the water outlet, intake manifolds, etc? Media blast and clear coat? Powder coat? Other? I want to keep it original in appearance. Thanks.
Opinion on detailing aluminum
- Thread starter HB Chris
- Start date
x_atlas0
Well-Known Member
I suppose the original finish would be for it to be covered in Cosmoline, so it ends up with that yellow look.
Mr. Cain has recommended Eastwood's Alumablast paint for the exposed aluminum parts with no clear. I have ordered a can and am going to try it out soon and will share my experience.
gazzol
Well-Known Member
The problem with clearcoat is that it will not stick to the aluminum, the same applies to all paints that are not specifically designed for the job. Sure they'll look great when they are done but given time depending on how often the car is used it will eventually start to flake off. If you must paint they you simply must use an acid etch primer. It works because the acid in the paint etches into the surface and becomes one with the part, once thats been applied you can use ordinary paint with no more adhesion problems. Here in the UK it is available in rattle cans from professional auto paint outlets so I would imagine that you should be able to get it in the States without any problem. If you do get some please be careful with regards to your own safety as the acid doesn't really care what it eats into aluminum, lungs and eyes it's not at all fussy.
If a nice clean unpainted look is what you hanker and your budget will allow (I've no idea how much it costs) why not look into having your parts anodized plain silver is one of the options not just the bright garish colors seen on rice burners.
Good luck in your project.
If a nice clean unpainted look is what you hanker and your budget will allow (I've no idea how much it costs) why not look into having your parts anodized plain silver is one of the options not just the bright garish colors seen on rice burners.
Good luck in your project.
Thanks gazzol, something to look into.
Old thread but still useful... Chris, did you end up using that Alumablast? How did it work out after 10 years?
Paint soaks up oil and dirt over time, I used Speedway to tumble and then clear ceramic coat all of the alu parts on the engine, even the oil pan.
Thank you.
I always liked bare aluminum under the hood. I use a wire brush followed by a red Scotchbrite pad. Clean it with degreaser and finish with Penetrol (available at Lowe’s in the paint department) It’s a paint additive but works great as a metal preservative. Wipe it on, wipe it off.
Ed Z
Ed Z
Penetrol works on plastic and rubber also.
I've used Penetrol as a cavity wax and seems to work well - very durable. I had my valve cover, thermostat pieces, and intake manifold bead blasted 8 years ago and just polish it occasionally with Colonite Metal Wax and a glass of wine (to polish me) to keep it au natureal.
I went Powder coating It's a little more industrial looking But to me easier maintenance and I plan on a lot of driving to get back some of the 12 years I put into it.
I like the neutral factory look (no shine, no paint) so to keep it that way I've used light glass beading (all the precautions must be taken), Alodine treatment (now Bonderite) and ongoing normal cleaning when needed with lightly moist Magic Eraser once in a while.
A little bit of each, head natural aluminum, manifolds painted - cast aluminum color caliper paint, valve cover media blasted, details polished and ceramic coated, pump powder coated
I read a book on Disney architecture one time
When they paint a building a color they use several different variations of the color, not just all yellow but maybe 7 different slightly different variations of the base yellow (or whatever)
It adds interest
So I like the variation
A couple more photos, the manifolds and air-horns are painted with VHT caliper paint cast aluminum color, they claim it is chemical resistant if cured properly
The carbs are out of the box
The filter adapter is slightly polished natural
The thermostat housing is powder coated aluminum
As mentioned before, the valve cover is glass bead blasted, the raised details polished and then clear Cerakote
I wanted a 'custom' look for the valve cover but not the typical black, also plenty of black with the plenum
I did remove the baffle in the cover before blasting it
When they paint a building a color they use several different variations of the color, not just all yellow but maybe 7 different slightly different variations of the base yellow (or whatever)
It adds interest
So I like the variation
A couple more photos, the manifolds and air-horns are painted with VHT caliper paint cast aluminum color, they claim it is chemical resistant if cured properly
The carbs are out of the box
The filter adapter is slightly polished natural
The thermostat housing is powder coated aluminum
As mentioned before, the valve cover is glass bead blasted, the raised details polished and then clear Cerakote
I wanted a 'custom' look for the valve cover but not the typical black, also plenty of black with the plenum
I did remove the baffle in the cover before blasting it
Getting there, lots of little, and not so little challenges remainLooks gorgeous.
I spy the 2000CS in the background.... lovely
Ed
The 2000CS is my brother's, will be for sale at some point
I just realized the radiator resevoir is brass. I am going to do the same on my 2800CS. Looks great!! Thank youI've used Penetrol as a cavity wax and seems to work well - very durable. I had my valve cover, thermostat pieces, and intake manifold bead blasted 8 years ago and just polish it occasionally with Colonite Metal Wax and a glass of wine (to polish me) to keep it au natureal.
Great job!