Overheating

Sorry Don, that post was not for me ( feeling jilted )

OK It is actually pretty simple, remove the fan clutch housing and in the center of the clutch brake, just add a thin /thick shim where the the thermo coupling pushes against The clutch material wears and the thermo coupling as it ages doesn't push as hard as when it was new Adding the shim locks the clutch sooner and tighter I use old small cutting discs that have worn right down from a dremel I keep my old ones once they get worn down, you need something hard that will not give or break Once you get it apart , it is pretty clear where the disc goes I don't have one apart or I would add a picture for you All this works providing you don't have a completely worn out clutch but have never seen one that worn

Thanks, Rick
 
stphers said:
Hi Don I have your phone number from when we met up here a few years ago Let me when is a good time to call you

Thanks, Rick
Click to expand...

Thanks for posting this. I am unlikely to use it because of my particular setup, but I found this type of information hugely valuable when I was new to the coupe.
 
Getting back on the OP.
IT is VITAL that the engine does not overheat. The problems with warped heads and blown gaskets following an overheating incident are many.
When new the cooling system was adequate, but years of slipping fan clutches, sludge, wrong/no antifreeze can wreak havoc.
I suggest you get this sorted ASAP.
If it starts to overheat when driving, open all the windows and put the heater on MAX with max blower, it will help a bit!
 
Last edited:
Simufly said:
Getting back on the OP.
IT is VITAL that the engine does not overheat. The problems with warped heads and blown gaskets following an overheating incident are many.
When new the cooling system was adequate, but years of slipping fan clutches, sludge, wrong/no antifreeze can wreak havoc.
I suggest you get this sorted ASAP.
If it starts to overheat when driving, open all the windows and put the heater on MAX with max blower, it will help a bit!
Click to expand...
Thank you ,,, thats exactly what I did to make it home without blowing gasket ..
 
Stevehose said:
Is your fan clutch working? You have the original friction set up. With the engine hot, can you turn the fan by hand? If no resistance then your fan clutch is kaput. Many of us have upgraded to the 9 blade/modern clutch setup. Another option is to do what they say in the blue book, remove 2 of the 4 fan bolts (opposits sides) and replace with longer ones to lock the fan in place to see if that solves your problem.
Click to expand...
Is this the bolts you are talking about ... also what is this bolt and nut on outer edge? I have the picture.. it was lose
 
Stevehose said:
Is your fan clutch working? You have the original friction set up. With the engine hot, can you turn the fan by hand? If no resistance then your fan clutch is kaput. Many of us have upgraded to the 9 blade/modern clutch setup. Another option is to do what they say in the blue book, remove 2 of the 4 fan bolts (opposits sides) and replace with longer ones to lock the fan in place to see if that solves your problem.
Click to expand...
 

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If that is your setup I would consider replacing your water pump. That’s not the proper way to lock the clutch. That extra bolt at the bottom is likely throwing everything out of balance, like a poorly placed wheel weight. I would imagine that the water pump bearings are take a beating.

AC59C9D1-9BE1-4C05-893B-574C7DF958E6.jpeg
 
I agree with @Markos that little bolt is not supposed to be there. Someone tried to lock the clutch that way. Remove it. Yes the 4 bolts shown with the ring in your pic are the ones I referred to. From the manual:

If a new fan coupling is not available for a repair,
the fan coupling can be blocked for a limited time with two M 6 x 30 mm
screws. The fan then turns continuously.
The screws should be opposite each other to avoid serious unbalance.

If the thermostat made no difference I would put it back in.
 
Stevehose said:
I agree with @Markos that little bolt is not supposed to be there. Someone tried to lock the clutch that way. Remove it. Yes the 4 bolts shown with the ring in your pic are the ones I referred to. From the manual:

If a new fan coupling is not available for a repair,
the fan coupling can be blocked for a limited time with two M 6 x 30 mm
screws. The fan then turns continuously.
The screws should be opposite each other to avoid serious unbalance.

If the thermostat made no difference I would put it back in.
Click to expand...
What do you mean by limited time?? I am changing the water pump too ... if installing longer bolts takes care of it ... I will do that ...
 
It's not a permanent solution, I thought you were going to just add the bolts to see if this was your problem. The permanent solution is to do the 9 blade fan and clutch upgrade.

Farzad Arjmand said:
What do you mean by limited time?? I am changing the water pump too ... if installing longer bolts takes care of it ... I will do that ...
Click to expand...
 
There are many threads, try the search function:

Cooling Fan upgrade

Greetings all: I realize this subject has been discussed and resolved for some time now. ( Mr. Potsch 2001 Tech info). However, in the FAQ section, it speaks to a 'relatively" simple conversion/upgrade to the 9 blade, provided the fan clutch is swapped also. My question would...
e9coupe.com e9coupe.com
 
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