polaris 3.0 csa on BaT - vin 4335133 <5 speed conversion>

Having drilled out the ignition cylinder “safety”screws from below, it’s a pretty obnoxious job. And that wasn’t even the screws the secure the bottom housing. I would ask about this. Not sure why all the screws would have broken or seized but I suspect it happened when changing the ignition cylinder
 
is the zip tie holding the bottom cover tight to the fixed upper cover? what year is the car? one thing might be the wrong cover - 70 to 73 is one cover + 74 is a different one (due to the adjustable column length) oh doh ... its a 74 vin with an adjustable column - the lower panel is plastic and the recesses for the screws might be broken off.
 
Don is correct, there are 3. two at the steering wheel end (on either side) and one on the other end. it is not uncommon for the cover to break one of the caps off of the end near the steering wheel. i have 2 that are like that ... which means that the machine screw won't lock it down. probably the reason that one has a zip tie on it.
 
“Having drilled out the ignition cylinder “safety”screws from below,”

Factory training is hammer and chisel.

Lead tech showed me 20 years ago.


30 minutes.
 
“Having drilled out the ignition cylinder “safety”screws from below,”

Factory training is hammer and chisel.

Lead tech showed me 20 years ago.


30 minutes.
Yes, someone here had a nice write up which I only discovered after I had spent a while figuring out how those damn bolts could ever come out. I wasn’t as adept at searching the depths of the forum early on - this was one of my first tasks. Still falls into the “one of the hardest things I have had to do on the car”, although that’s a long list
And who would have thought that “hammer and chisel” is the answer to removing a delicate part of your fine piece of German engineering!
 
Yes they’re factory anti-roll bar mounts. There is one on each side of the rear subframe. 1974 U.S. spec coupes did not come with rear anti-roll bar. I have installed one on my 74. Easily done.
Funny, I was just going to inspect that the next time the coupe is on a lift. I could jack it up and check in the garage but have an appointment next week for something else so was just going to inspect when on the lift.

When I used beefier sway bars on the Bavaria (22mm front and 18mm rear) if I recall correctly [Suspension Techniques (ST)] I noticed a big difference. I was thinking of doing the same thing to the coupe. The mounts look simple enough to fabricate if not on mine (US spec '74 as well).

I did have an issue finding those ST sway bars, Carl no longer has a line on them from La Jolla (if I recall my last conversation with him on the subject). I still think that is the case but may have changed. Does anyone know who is selling those? I looked around and it was a dead end. If not, what are you guys running instead of ST? I want the full kit with new bushings, etc. like they used to come. It was a simple install. Sorry to hijack this thread, a little off topic.
 
you can still buy them from Suspension Techniques - as i remember we use the e12 bars. fronts - 50015 / rears - 51015 / full set - 52015

1782934587681.png
 
Funny, I was just going to inspect that the next time the coupe is on a lift. I could jack it up and check in the garage but have an appointment next week for something else so was just going to inspect when on the lift.

When I used beefier sway bars on the Bavaria (22mm front and 18mm rear) if I recall correctly [Suspension Techniques (ST)] I noticed a big difference. I was thinking of doing the same thing to the coupe. The mounts look simple enough to fabricate if not on mine (US spec '74 as well).

I did have an issue finding those ST sway bars, Carl no longer has a line on them from La Jolla (if I recall my last conversation with him on the subject). I still think that is the case but may have changed. Does anyone know who is selling those? I looked around and it was a dead end. If not, what are you guys running instead of ST? I want the full kit with new bushings, etc. like they used to come. It was a simple install. Sorry to hijack this thread, a little off topic.
Check the size your front bar. 1974 models increased fronts to 23mm from 17mm and rear bars became optional. Prior to 74 coupes came standard with 17mm front & rear. My 74 has the 23mm and I added a stock 17mm rear bar I purchased from SFDon.
 
Yes, someone here had a nice write up which I only discovered after I had spent a while figuring out how those damn bolts could ever come out. I wasn’t as adept at searching the depths of the forum early on - this was one of my first tasks. Still falls into the “one of the hardest things I have had to do on the car”, although that’s a long list
And who would have thought that “hammer and chisel” is the answer to removing a delicate part of your fine piece of German engineering!
Had to break out the trusted hammer and chisel to remove differential drain plug recently. I have learned to have fresh, new ones standing by. ;)
 
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Yes they’re factory anti-roll bar mounts. There is one on each side of the rear subframe. 1974 U.S. spec coupes did not come with rear anti-roll bar. I have installed one on my 74. Easily done.
Couple questions and again, sorry for veering off topic a bit on this sale of the E9. But do you have a sketch or anything of the metal you fabbed to weld to the rear subframe to accommodate the rear bars? It looks like it just needs the two holes to mount bushings to the plate. The plate that D Calkins took a picture of, looks like about 1/4" thick metal and like 2"x2" with that lip on the inside? Maybe to help with welding it on or? I peeked under the car with a flashlight and don't see those tabs on my '74. I remember my Bav had the rear tabs and no sway bar, so that was an easy mount with the ST package.

Scott, thanks for the ST link. I am going a little crazy because I know I would have looked on ST's site for these, maybe my key words using "E9" instead of "E12" didn't pop anything up. I forgot they are designed for the E12. Or is it possible they didn't sell direct to consumer a while back and why independent shops like Carl's used to offer them for sale? Now you can buy direct?

Anyhow, nice to know they are still available and I do remember adding the thicker front bar and rear did make a world of difference (to me at least). My guy is a good fabricator and welder but any measurements would help if someone is able to provide that for the rear tabs and exact location where to weld them on the subframe. I'm surprised BMW stopped using the rear bars in '74, wouldn't the car need to be corner balanced without them? Or still should be corner balanced after adding the rear bars? I remember a buddies CSL didn't have front or rear I don't think but it was nicely corner balanced. I could be wrong on not having a front one, but I know it didn't have a rear sway bar.

EDIT: I do see the cut out on the tab for the slot to slide bushing tab into to bolt on the ST bushings, then bolt down. So, yeah, any little rough sketch with measurements for tabs and where to weld to subframe would be great.
 
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I’m going to say under. $45k
Ireland engineeeing also sells a front/rear sway bar kit. Looks out of stock at the moment but may be worth messaging them to see about availability
 
Couple questions and again, sorry for veering off topic a bit on this sale of the E9. But do you have a sketch or anything of the metal you fabbed to weld to the rear subframe to accommodate the rear bars? It looks like it just needs the two holes to mount bushings to the plate. The plate that D Calkins took a picture of, looks like about 1/4" thick metal and like 2"x2" with that lip on the inside? Maybe to help with welding it on or? I peeked under the car with a flashlight and don't see those tabs on my '74. I remember my Bav had the rear tabs and no sway bar, so that was an easy mount with the ST package.
There should be nothing to weld. Unless someone removed those tabs from your car they’re normally there from the factory wether the bar is there or not.
I used these brackets, new bushings and new Ireland Engineering end links. Everything bolted in place. Took maybe half an hour.
IMG_0444.jpeg



PS: I think this Polaris/Red coupe goes over 50K
 
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There should be nothing to weld. Unless someone removed those tabs from your car they’re normally there from the factory wether the bar is there or not.
I used these brackets, new bushings and new Ireland Engineering end links. Everything bolted in place. Took maybe half an hour.
View attachment 221745


PS: I think this Polaris/Red coupe goes over 50K
There we go, right on thanks. Peeking under the car but not jacking it up I don't see them. Going on lift next week, will poke around a little more. Anyone else with a '74 that doesn't have the tabs? Good to know they are available if not there, thank you!
 
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