Finished with no disasters
Now that you've caught your breath from my dipstick repaint DIY, I have now finished this rebuild without any disasters (probably because no wine during the week for me). Here are the parts you need, I ordered from Tischer (GetBMWParts.com):
32411105146 shaft seal
32411105157 o-ring
32411105150 o-ring
32411105154 o-ring
07119963354 crush washer
32411105145 sealed bearing
32411105147 needle bearing
32411105151 o-ring NLA - replaced with Viton 20 x 25 x 2.5mm
The small o-ring is NLA so I sourced one of similar dimensions on Amazon, I had to buy 10 so if anyone wants one I will drop one in the mail to you.
The bearings and shaft seal and 2 of the large o-rings had to be ordered from Germany. They came in only a week, not the 2-3 they said.
NLA o-ring and brown replacement, large o-rings, and bearings and seal:
I have an early e12 pump on in the meantime and I noticed that although it fits, the innards only have 1 bearing not 2, and the bearing is not as big so it seems the e9 pump is more well built.
The manual is quite helpful so keep this handy:
http://www.e9-driven.com/Public/Library/BMW-E9-Manual/pages/en/32410830.html#refertoc
It's also a good idea to take pics of each step of dissasembly so you can refer to it later.
Here are the parts lined up in basic order of assembly going from right to left on the bottom:
On goes the bearing to the shaft first, followed by the snap ring once in place:
Next in goes the needle bearing, it is critical for all bearing and seal installs that it starts going in evenly, if c0cked one way you'll ruin it (amhik). Use a socket the same size as the outer race but just small enough to fit in the shaft and tap slowly and evenly to get them started in straight, gradually increasing force as required. I used an 11/16th 3/8" drive for the bearing (17mm would work) and a 20mm 1/2" drive for the seal:
It has to go in 37mm from the face of the front housing so I made a depth gauge and hit it in until enough, if you go to far it can be tapped back from the other side but just be careful with the hits as you get close to the spec depth:
The seal next, hit flush to the bottom:
In goes the bearing/shaft assembly from the front, I put it in the freezer for a while to help the bearing fit into the housing but it didn't put up too much resistance so probably not necessary, I used my trusty orange BFH to hit the end of the shaft until the bearing bottomed out in the housing, then it's all in with the circlip installed:
Next go the turbine components, first the o-ring 32411105150 followed by the piece with the small NLA o-ring, this needs to be tapped in flush to the body so I used a socket:
DISSASSEMBLY NOTE: the piece with the small nla o-ring on it needs to be tapped out with a suitable tool through the needle bearing hole from the front side, this will allow you to then get a socket on the needle bearing to hit it out of the housing. It took me a while to figure this out when I couldn't find a way to get the needle bearing out.
Next the o-ring 32411105154 and the midsection piece, the arrow indicates direction of rotation (clockwise when looking from front of pump):
Next are the vane and pieces, the manual says which way it goes in (recessed towards bottom), the blades will have a slight band of discoloration across the top, these go towards the center (the holes in the slots), I don't know if it matters but I did it anyway:
EDIT: they did not appear to be worn in any particular direction but perhaps a safe thing to do would be to put a dot with a Marks-A-Lot pen on each vane near the gear end before removing so they could be replaced in the same direction of rotation.
Then the last o-ring 32411105157 and top piece and spring:
Back cover on and snap ring:
Next a new crush washer and cleaned pressure valve assembly:
All painted, clear coated, and hopefully ready for many more years of service (don't tighten the pulley until you've put the mounting bracket back on):
