Recommend Up grades on restoration ??

rsporsche said:
i hate the idea of going through the interior to get to a battery. if i was going to put my battery in the trunk, i would create an elephant skin (wrapped) panel to cover up the battery ... and if you have the rear shock brace, cover that up too. the trunk is large, you can make it a little smaller and look finished.
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Out of curiosity Scott, how often do you have to "get to the battery"? After you put it under the seat, you run your positive lead to a power distribution box in the engine. That gives you access to everything you need from that battery. You can jump it from there if needed. AGS batteries don't leak so, apart from having to replace it every 5 or so years, why would you need direct access to it?
 
don't think there's much room for a "normal" battery under the rear seats ? perhaps a dry cell flat type on it's side ?
for traction :D best is further aft.... in the trunk
 
Bmachine said:
Out of curiosity Scott, how often do you have to "get to the battery"?
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I'm with Bo. I relocated the battery on one of my Alfas to under the rear seat (now parcel shelf), and never have to access it. I am using Optima batteries (2 X 6v) which have been pretty bullet-proof. I do have a readily-accessible shut-off switch, so I can easily disable the electrical system before performing maintenance.

I also dislike giving up valuable trunk space, though I'll admit that as collector cars go, the e9 trunk is huge.
 
I agree with Phillipe db.

If you want the authentic 1970s CSL driving experience keep it standard.

If you want a modern driving experience buy an M3.
 
Marco 54 said:
If you want the authentic 1970s CSL driving experience keep it standard. If you want a modern driving experience buy an M3.
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I agree up to a point. But installing parts that increase reliability, such as electronic ignitions or internally-regulated alternators, don't detract from the vintage driving experience.

The reality is that modern tires are different than the ones delivered with our cars when new, today's fuels are different, .... Some change is inevitable. The challenge is not going too far.
 
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Hi Sandhu, I'd be leaving it as standard as I could. As discussed above, things to improve reliability seem a good plan. Like electronic ignition, low beam relays, modern alt, electric rad fan, etc. I'm also looking at ceramic coating the exhaust manifolds, to better protect the clutch and brake masters from heat soak, doesn't seem to be any downside here.

I also put rear seat belts in, as I do drive with the family, and will be updating the front belts also

Very envious, a brand new CSL, very special. Keep us posted as to how the restore progresses
 
Here's one that no one mentioned.
Electric door locks controlled with a key fob. Not visible for the purists.
You can buy a kit with the solenoid motors and they easily fit in the doors and connect to the lock mechanism. All they need is 12 volts.
Push of a button and both doors lock or unlock.
 
m5bb said:
Here's one that no one mentioned.
Electric door locks controlled with a key fob. Not visible for the purists.
You can buy a kit with the solenoid motors and they easily fit in the doors and connect to the lock mechanism. All they need is 12 volts.
Push of a button and both doors lock or unlock.
Click to expand...
Great idea Gary. I did that on one of my Tii many years ago. I think Alpine had a kit at the time. Have you done it recently? Do you have a brand you can recommend?
 
m5bb said:
Here's one that no one mentioned.
Electric door locks controlled with a key fob. Not visible for the purists.
You can buy a kit with the solenoid motors and they easily fit in the doors and connect to the lock mechanism. All they need is 12 volts.
Push of a button and both doors lock or unlock.
Click to expand...

Not for the purist, but I plan to install a dome light fade controller like this one: http://revolutionelectronics.com/Dome_Light.html. I may also add foot well lights to the dome light circuit when doing this.
 
OK I will call him, I assume that is a metal part? do you weld it? inside or out? it seems like something needs to transfer the load to the sides of the 'tube'
 
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