Thank you @Dick Steinkamp. Yes I reproduce a vinyl vapor barriers for old BM´s
Removing door panels to work on windows...
- Thread starter ECA90049
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- door panels window repair
Put a swear jar on the ground next to the door. By the time you've got them back in, your next year's holiday will be half paid for.
I’ve always done it exactly the way HBC describes and never found it to be difficult.
perhaps it’s the next step that helps: when I first fit the trim panel back in the door, I try to ensure the holes in the trim are aligned with the holes in the structural inner door panels. I’ll push on one Christmas tree at the bottom then do a visual check, shifting the trim panel around to get good alignment. This ensures that when you align the screws with the hole in the trim that it will also be aligned with the hole in the door inner. Then I push in the rest of the push-on fasteners.
When fitting the screws, I always turn them CCW while varying the angle of penetration till i feel the tip positively align with the hole. At that point it take little force to screw er in.
John
ECA90049
Active Member
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I have had to use a longer machine screw which then won’t fit in the chrome sleeve so I dremel the head down a bit to fit. Many coupes by now have a coarse screw in this location which is not correct.
ECA90049,
That's a replacement panel...factory would have wood, 1/2 way up above the knob, where yours has textured vinyl...I'm guessing here, that you don't have wood, and someone made an all-vinyl panel with a hole for your vent knob, in which case, yes, the knob would have to come off. As Chris described, and then the center screw.
That's a replacement panel...factory would have wood, 1/2 way up above the knob, where yours has textured vinyl...I'm guessing here, that you don't have wood, and someone made an all-vinyl panel with a hole for your vent knob, in which case, yes, the knob would have to come off. As Chris described, and then the center screw.
ECA90049
Active Member
It feels like the vent knob will keep the door panel from coming off, but I will try to take off the door panel with the knob still on. I think it was originally wood on the door panel, but in bad condition and the previous owner just upholstered over it. So now it's my task to figure out how to get it off. So far everything I've tried has not worked...
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ECA90049
Active Member
Once I get my vent knob off and windows working I will get in touch. I will need two vapor walls for my E9...
Keep trying, turn the knob until you find the hole and position it at the bottom and then push it off with an Allen wrench.
...and then you are one screw away from freedom. Once you do it Chris' way, you will say "duh".
It's a little hard to tell, but it looks from that one picture, that they probably subbed a thin piece of plywood for the original wood (looks too flat to be over the orig wood; it would have a slight bow, or swell outward at that point...), and upholstered over that...not a bad alternative to fugly wood.
Agree, now that I see it's a different door card design it's best to remove the knob and check things out.
If I have to do this again, I am going to get a set of these instead of the shower curtains I used.
Using heavy plastic sheet cut to shape I have used simple rubber cement to hold the sheeting in place.
It tacks well, provides a uniform seal and when the panel is replaced it wil be secure and weather resistant.
Be generous when applying and the vapor barrier can be adjusted when fitting...not a one shot application like most other methods. And rubber cement is easily removed should access be needed again in the future. No stretching or tearing of the vapor barrier.
Done this for over 20 years. Pulled the door panel on my Volvo P1800ES last month and after 8 years and it was still perfectly adhered.
Foolproof
That's a great idea! I'll try it next time I'm in there. Just to be clear, you're talking rubber cement that comes in a jar with a brush? The stuff that you could roll up to make fake boogers once it dried enough?
Sounds like a challenge. I accept!
fyi, image here to help anyone out who find this thread while using the search function:
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Finding that hole with the allen wrench is not as simple as it seems, at least for me. Also, does that need to come off to get the door card off, IIRC I did not have to do that (although I learned that retrospectively)?
Honolulu
Well-Known Member
The vapor barrier is a cheap alternative to using a door card material that doesn't crumble with moisture. It's easy enough to cut a bit of thin plywood, seal both sides with poly, and you'll never have to scrw around with the staining, gummy stickum that's used to hold the vapor barrier again.
As stated in this thread before, the vent window knob does not have to come off to remove the door panel ( the soft board carrier with the embossed vinyl part, holding the map pocket)
Reason is this: the embossed vinyl part of the door panel pulls away, downward, from the vent knob. Hence the vent knob can stay in place if you want to access the inner door only.
The top section that has the wood, chrome strips and window felt remain attached to the door structure after removing the doorpanel. the top section is a separate metal carrier that can be unscrewed from the doorframe with 3 tiny crosshead screws, hidden under a felt lining. to access these 3 tiny screws, you need to first remove the doorpanel.