Restauration 3.0CS Automatik Baikal blue

Yes, but dont know what means Inka?
The orange Color?
That paint the pre owner in the late 70th
a kind of rust protection that is in the meanwhile not longer available.


Yes, thx, i´m so proud, that i get that car, still in good conection with the pre owner.

Breiti

I believe the original color of the car is the blue...

In my humble opinion orange is chloride-rubber based paint covering the bottom of the car and later on reinforced/coated with anti-rock protection.

If that is true previous owner was an expert and it the the reason why the car survived in such a great shape. I would expect also wax or grease in the inner sections (sills, doors, etc).

... it reminds me 70's and 80's ...

Behind iron curtain car was extremely expensive (used cars were more expensive than new as you would need to have ticket from the Communism Party to buy it). People having cars, basically very prone to corrosion were doing a lot to keep them in a good shapes. Special waxes were not available so people were creative mixing oils, greases with kerosene or other chemicals to make the protection by themselves. Later on, during sunny days such a car was marking it's way as this chemistry was dipping on the street.

It is also valid for new cars still as due to weight and cost (and environmental reasons) they are again less protected in comparison to cars from 90's or 2000 era.

It would be than also recommended if someone would like to keep it longer in a good shape as most of them are not protected from below as for example new Ford Fiesta I was making protection for my Friends (wax plus body protection). Of course paint and steel quality plus the whole passivation is making car bodies better protected than it was in the past.
 
The pre owner is an car expert for sure .
He also spend the car a body cavity sealing in 1982.
But in additional, the car wasn't driven in any winter time since 1977.
What is documented by stamps in the title here in Germany.
I give the car today to the dry ice blaster.
Some days of to do "other stuff"

Breiti
 

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I try it with a do it yourself system I rent.
But that was to small and need much more air, I have. And I have a lot air.
You see that in the video from the Mercedes video I link in the first thread at 0:10

So now a professional team take care of that. Wer will see the result in maybe 2 weeks.
I hate it, giving something in stranger hands, but on this....
we will see.
In the meanwhile, I will clean up and prepare the workshop.


Breiti
 
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Oh sorry, that is an 6.3 manifold.
I also refresh parallel an 6.3 motor I bought as a spare.
At the pic you see the second one.

Therefore, the buckets already stuffed for zinc coating.

Breiti
 

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Ok, now I got the context from Inka

Got the car back from dry ice blasting.
No more surprise, only the left fender.
Somebody fixed that in the past with a sheet and a lot of plastic

A pillar is looking good both sides under the fender, also the cavity on the front wall both w/o rust.

small hole in the front floor left due to a bended support sheet from wrong lifting

So only trials to weld.
Thank the pe owner preparing the body very well over the years.

Next step, blasting with glas powder

Breiti
 

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What is your opinion about dry ice blasting?

Looking on the pictures it looks the previous owner done some repairs and - in the end - protected the can body agains further corrosion with "inka" rubber or epoxy primer.
 
What is your opinion about dry ice blasting?
I'm disappointed...
They clean the flats and ther corners still dirty.
Almost wasted money....

At the end, to get a nice result, I have to remove all the stoneship.
So I start scraping it.
The best is doing it cold as it is, I didn't aspect.

So here you see a whole day scrape.
Seams like that will take a while.

Breiti
 

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Looks like better than going to gym. ;-)

Have you been scraping it by hand tools or electric vibration tool/cutter?
 
Have you been scraping it by hand tools or electric vibration tool/cutter?
I just did a little scraping under my coupe and found that my Fein multi-master with a scraping bit worked very well to take off material down to the metal with just a little light residue that could then be removed without much effort.
 
The needler is the worse tool you can choose for that.
I have a intact floor, only a few really small spots with surface rust.

With the needler i would damage the surface of sheet.

Breiti
 
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