MikeLiang
Member
Following up on eriknetherlands point, are there part #'s for those inner turn signal seals? Realoem.com doesn't seem to list them as a separate item which is strange
Rubber FAQ
- Thread starter Markos
- Start date
Markos, every bit of rubber on my car is dried and cracked. This is very helpful. Thank you!
houseofdiesel
Member
What an awesome resource this is, thank you so much guys! I am doing most of the rubber on a 1975 this winter, saving me hours and hours of research. It is very helpful to have the real photos of where the part is, avoids the confusion. The old parts program sketches are tough to decipher at times. Thanks!!!
houseofdiesel
Member
I have two to add, at the base of the rear quarter glass there is a channel seal and fits into the body/door opening area 51 36 7 740 107 L 51 36 7 740 108 R will provide a photo shortly
houseofdiesel
Member
Mistake on door rear edge seal #13, the part number starts with 51 not 52
Thank you very much, error has been corrected!
Markos will need to add this one to post #7 by adding those two lines as I’m not sure I have the skills to do it. It is another one of the NLA rubber bits.
Updated, but these part numbers are for a 2000CS at W&N. Realoem and e9coupe discussions confirm compatibility.
References:
More of side windows.......
Seems like a lot of us got tired of the slow reaction, dried rubber sealing and bad alignment of the side windows :-) I'm just now working with the rear windows and can't really find what part number for the lower square thicker rubber piece (against B-pillar). See pics (RealOEM show parts at...
e9coupe.com
This FAQ is a bear! No wonder why I haven't touched it in 6 months! Many thanks to @HB Chris for his stewardship! I still need to revisit a few audits from above to see if they need updating.
Those numbers are in the Orange book.
Makes sense. My books are on top shelf of the bookshelf and I don't want to pull a muscle.
houseofdiesel
Member
My first order is in from W-N, I can send pictures of the seals missing them or add them here if wanted. I am trying to get every bit of rubber for the car I am working on.
Thank you for participating. That would be helpful. I think it is difficult to recognize how incredibly helpful this inventory is unless you are going through the painstaking process of spending $2K on rubber.
Guys - I don't have any parts number knowledge to add, but I have one tidbit to pass along folks may want to consider. If folks have rubber parts, particularly appearance items, that are dried but not cracked, try a liberal application of petroleum jelly. I have had good luck bringing back to life some dried rubber gaskets and seals that are not too far gone.
No hair splitting! These are the essential parameters that seperate the men from the insane. I'm clearly on the insane side: when you wrote that they existed, they needed to be found. So....Thanks @eriknetherlands! I need to clean this up a bit. I’ll add the inner seals. Also the screws on the blinkers have little rubber donuts. So do the t-bolt nuts for the belt-line, but maybe I’m splitting hairs at this point.
Found a NOS lens, original" Sidler " branded and it comes indeed with 2 rubber rings!
Flat style 3mm thick, 8 mm outer, 3.8 mm inner, (4 mm will work just fine).
Screws are stainless M4x12 with a Philip's (2?) Sized head.
Even more cool is the little paper bag with info in 3 languages. As if you would not know what they were when you got them out of the bag.
I just love how these things just find the light, after spending some 40 odd years or so on a shelf somewhere....
Attachments
@Markos,
What do you think to differentiate original rubbers (take from NOS stock of parts or from the cars) with the replacements.
Might be that some of the copies are better and some are far from being perfect.
The good example is the taillights seal.
The one from W&N is far from being nice to me. Maybe in the end it is better from functionality point of view. I'm assuming the original ones are bending which makes as problem with water ingress into the trunk.
What do you think to differentiate original rubbers (take from NOS stock of parts or from the cars) with the replacements.
Might be that some of the copies are better and some are far from being perfect.
The good example is the taillights seal.
The one from W&N is far from being nice to me. Maybe in the end it is better from functionality point of view. I'm assuming the original ones are bending which makes as problem with water ingress into the trunk.
Currently the format of this table is:
What do you all think of adding a comments column so that anyone that researched an item can comment - possibly cheaper generic stuff, link to buy etc.
| Description | Image | Qty | Part # | Left/Right | Book | Status |
|---|
What do you all think of adding a comments column so that anyone that researched an item can comment - possibly cheaper generic stuff, link to buy etc.
This is a handy rubber grommet set up to 1”/25mm. I used it for the hood light grommets in the hood and rad panel (different sizes) and the vertical opening in the spare tire well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HCK5GS7
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HCK5GS7
Last edited by a moderator:
Only the original poster or a Moderator can edit to add comments to a post. We need to keep the FAQ section as simple as we can.
An oft omitted restoration detail is that door seal that goes inside the jam against the outer skin. Check some of the high priced sales on Bring-a-Trailer and you’ll see most are missing it. I can understand this as the seal serves little purpose.
Checking out prices online for this PN (51 21 6 740 181 and 180), they were a bit steep, $85 to $165 each.
I found an almost identical alternative, PN 70-1111-73 from Steele Rubber Products, and a total price of $35 to my door for 5 feet, which was enough to do both doors.
Yup, not original, but if you look VERY closely at my car you’ll find a few parts from JCWhitney, and some adapted from E3 parts.
Now if Steele only made comparable door, trunk, and engine compartment seals.......
Checking out prices online for this PN (51 21 6 740 181 and 180), they were a bit steep, $85 to $165 each.
I found an almost identical alternative, PN 70-1111-73 from Steele Rubber Products, and a total price of $35 to my door for 5 feet, which was enough to do both doors.
Yup, not original, but if you look VERY closely at my car you’ll find a few parts from JCWhitney, and some adapted from E3 parts.
Now if Steele only made comparable door, trunk, and engine compartment seals.......
