Rubber FAQ

eriknetherlands

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Thanks @eriknetherlands! I need to clean this up a bit. I’ll add the inner seals. Also the screws on the blinkers have little rubber donuts. So do the t-bolt nuts for the belt-line, but maybe I’m splitting hairs at this point. :D
No hair splitting! These are the essential parameters that seperate the men from the insane. I'm clearly on the insane side: when you wrote that they existed, they needed to be found. So....
Found a NOS lens, original" Sidler " branded and it comes indeed with 2 rubber rings!
Flat style 3mm thick, 8 mm outer, 3.8 mm inner, (4 mm will work just fine).
Screws are stainless M4x12 with a Philip's (2?) Sized head.

Even more cool is the little paper bag with info in 3 languages. As if you would not know what they were when you got them out of the bag.

I just love how these things just find the light, after spending some 40 odd years or so on a shelf somewhere....
 

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Krzysztof

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@Markos,

What do you think to differentiate original rubbers (take from NOS stock of parts or from the cars) with the replacements.
Might be that some of the copies are better and some are far from being perfect.
The good example is the taillights seal.
The one from W&N is far from being nice to me. Maybe in the end it is better from functionality point of view. I'm assuming the original ones are bending which makes as problem with water ingress into the trunk.

1618752342718.png
 

bmw2800cs.com

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Currently the format of this table is:
DescriptionImageQtyPart #Left/RightBookStatus

What do you all think of adding a comments column so that anyone that researched an item can comment - possibly cheaper generic stuff, link to buy etc.
 

HB Chris

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Currently the format of this table is:
DescriptionImageQtyPart #Left/RightBookStatus

What do you all think of adding a comments column so that anyone that researched an item can comment - possibly cheaper generic stuff, link to buy etc.
Only the original poster or a Moderator can edit to add comments to a post. We need to keep the FAQ section as simple as we can.
 

Jellobmw

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An oft omitted restoration detail is that door seal that goes inside the jam against the outer skin. Check some of the high priced sales on Bring-a-Trailer and you’ll see most are missing it. I can understand this as the seal serves little purpose.

Checking out prices online for this PN (51 21 6 740 181 and 180), they were a bit steep, $85 to $165 each.

I found an almost identical alternative, PN 70-1111-73 from Steele Rubber Products, and a total price of $35 to my door for 5 feet, which was enough to do both doors.

Yup, not original, but if you look VERY closely at my car you’ll find a few parts from JCWhitney, and some adapted from E3 parts.

Now if Steele only made comparable door, trunk, and engine compartment seals.......
 

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