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The standard intake manifolds take the intercouple setup nicely, and a lot easier to adjust than the crossbar/rod setup.

DWMBMW said:
Wow, thanks Steve. I will shoot them an email.

I have the standard intakes so will never get as clean a set up as you have.

My old set up had the rod posts attached to the pre threaded holes in the intake and I saw Tom had them in the anchored behind in the webs which means he had 3 posts vs just the catilvered 2 post rod assembly I had.
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You don't have to use the rod linkage. You can connect each Weber together along the throttle shafts. Pierce has the fittings to do this.
I didn't like the sloppiness of the bar and all the hardware it takes to make it work or the way it looks for that matter. I had the rods in the beginning.
This is very simple with the right pieces.
 
Hi Doug, Thank you! Yes, Pierce sells the kit online for about $140. I live fairly close to them so I stopped in to pick it up. While I was there, I bought an extra riser for the middle manifold and they cut the crossbar to length for me as well. The third riser might be overkill but I really wanted to reduce flex and keep everything rotating nicely with as little flex as possible across the middle. It's a solid set up now compared to my original flimsy set up! The kit is "R/L Handed" so just make sure which side of the carbs you'll need your levers placed and ask them for the correct handing - it helps them determine which rotational "crank" you'll need on your carb body. I had to swap one from right to left handed (or visa versa - can't remember now) to keep everything rotating correctly. It was a fun project and I'm so happy I did it. Hope this helps! Happy to help further if needed... Tom

Sidenote: To compliment Gary and Steve's point, it's all personal preference. I happen to love the look of the bar and rod actuators and by no means would I consider it sloppy - it's a stout set up.
 
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I agree, it is sexier!

Tom P said:
Sidenote: To compliment Gary and Steve's point, it's all personal preference. I happen to love the look of the bar and rod actuators and by no means would I consider it sloppy - it's a stout set up.
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I really do like the aggressive look of Tom's set up but I also like the idea of intercoupling them if it makes for easier adjustment.

Steve/Gary, would I need to remove the carbs and or intakes to link the carbs or can it be installed with everything in place. It is such a pain to remove the first carb with the thermostat housing.
 
You should be able to do it in situ. Make sure you don't twist the throttle shafts when tightening the nuts by bracing the lever, not the butterfly. Critical is to make sure the levers are tight on the throttle shafts with NO rotation play. If they slide on easily check to see if they can be rotated without the shaft moving, even a miniscule amount, if so they must be secured better. I hit the levers with a punch to tighten the hole a little so that they need to be (gently) pulled on with the shaft nut. Message me if you want further info. You'll need 4 levers - 2 with the adjust screw (for carbs 2 & 3) and 2 with the right angle piece that fits into the previous (one of which for carb #1 with extended piece to contact idle adjust screw, the other for carb 2 which is a simple right angle), 6 shaft nuts, 6 locking tabs, an idle screw and spring, the washers for the exposed shaft ends (2) and if you dont have it, threaded rod with the ball joints on either end.
 
...how about some patina? Nothing resto-mod here. '73 Fjord Blue CSA.

Scott
 

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DWMBMW said:
Now I just need to clean up the engine and bay!
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Get some red Scotch brite pads from the auto parts store to scrub all the aluminum bits, including the Webers. Rinse with some degreaser or soapy water. Then wipe down with Penetrol (found in paint section of Lowes).

That's what I do.
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Ed
 
Ed,

I actually did buy a can of Penetrol based on your earlier post in this thread a few months ago but haven't been able
to clean up the aluminum bits properly yet.

I also did delete the first pic I took and went back to adjust and align the wing nuts (again based your earlier post).

Doug
 
I forgot that I've posted this before... Penetrol works well. Wipe it on, wipe it off. Keeps the fresh aluminum from oxidizing. Also keeps hoses and plastic shiny.

Ed
 
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