Smokin' hot ignition coil

bluecoupe30!

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I was working through a carburetor issue last week. After a long period of calm and smooth running, my Coupe suddenly would stall at a stop light. I am sensitive to that as this is an automatic and I had it dialled in to perfection, at a stop, in gear, it was idling fine, perhaps even as low as 550 rpm, but it did not matter, idle was strong, stable, and shifts from 2-1 were gentle. Not like when you must dial in a higher idle rpm to keep the car from stalling. This was set up great. Got it home and diagnosed a flooding front carb. (I have a pair of Weber 32/36s). Went through the usual measures, cleaning out all passages, adjusting float, replacing float, new needle valve and seat, new power valve, carb top off, then back on, over and over, ...until the progress bar of my "Fed-up" metre reached 100%.
Time for nuclear option. I had purchased a new Weber from Pierce Manifolds 4 years ago, for just this scenario. After 40 years, perhaps it was time to change to a new unit. Swap went well, except that overnight, one of the blocked off water hoses did leak and ran coolant out to below bottom of expansion tank. Was hopeful air did not get in. Filled tank. Time for a test drive. Car started great. Took drive, seemed to get hot pretty quick. Made one stop, then car was difficult to restart. Not normal. Drove home to investigate.
Next day I thought I would start with purging air from cooling system...and...this is where things got interesting. During the process, as car was running and heater was on full, and I was watching for the tiny bubbles of air escaping from the bleed screw, I observed, over by the ignition coil, smoke! Smoke, plus atomized oil...my coil was literally being boiled! Shut down immediately, disconnected battery.
I have owned this car 38 years. Ignition system has operated fine. It has always had a Crane XR700 electronic ignition. On that day, it died. A transistor failed, and it became permanently grounded and sent all its voltage into the poor coil and did not ever stop. Usually it is a pulse to assist in startup, but that day it seized.
What to do? Fast now makes the very same unit, and it is a virtual plug a play swap. But cannot get this in my hands quickly. I know Pertronix is popular, but again, there may be a delay. Add to that, the need to acquire a specific ignition coil....have you seen the prices now for a Bosch Red?
Decision time. I decided to rip out old Crane, revert to new set of points, condenser, rotor, cap, swap out coil with known good Bosch Black with factory spec Primary and secondary values. Car started and runs great again. I must say, it always helps to have spares on hand, especially as what used to be readily available ignition parts are now special order or days away, as well as much more expensive!
So, just when everything was going so well.....ah, the joy of owning/driving a 54 year old car. Mike
You should have a look at the rotor :
IMG_1869.jpeg
 
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I may have a coil that would work, currently Bosch Blue with my pertronix. You know that with petronix and the blue you would remove the ballast resister?
 
I may have a coil that would work, currently Bosch Blue with my pertronix. You know that with petronix and the blue you would remove the ballast resister?
Yes, have followed all that. Taking it slow now that I am back running again. Simple can be great. Will see how car performs before making any new adjustments. Thanks for the offer.
Mike
 
Back in the points for daily drivers days, I think I recall 10-20,000 miles between replacements. It takes most of us several years to get that sort of mileage on a collector car. The Pertronics products (and other forms of pointless ignition systems) were great when we were driving those kinds of miles in a lot shorter time frame. Not so necessary for most now.

Don't you hate it when two systems (carb and ignition) fail at the same time. :( Good sleuthing and I'm glad it's back on the road.
 
Back in the points for daily drivers days, I think I recall 10-20,000 miles between replacements. It takes most of us several years to get that sort of mileage on a collector car. The Pertronics products (and other forms of pointless ignition systems) were great when we were driving those kinds of miles in a lot shorter time frame. Not so necessary for most now.

Don't you hate it when two systems (carb and ignition) fail at the same time. :( Good sleuthing and I'm glad it's back on the road.
Thanks Dick. YES! I was kinda bummed there for a bit, but when I thought about it, in the terms you just mentioned, I thought I would just "get back to stock" and perhaps that's all I need right now.
Cannot deny the two systems, teaming up, were, well, kinda daunting, but it helps that these are not daily drivers and we have time to think!
Mike
 
Depends on which ignitor that you would get I would look at the ignitor II and the coil that goes with it I think that both are in stock out there and again, pretty good prices Do you have another rotor? I may have one in stock
Thanks Rick, I had a stash of ignition parts, so got all this done and only investment was my time ;)
 
Back in the points for daily drivers days, I think I recall 10-20,000 miles between replacements. It takes most of us several years to get that sort of mileage on a collector car. The Pertronics products (and other forms of pointless ignition systems) were great when we were driving those kinds of miles in a lot shorter time frame. Not so necessary for most now.
Dick:

I'd like to make sure I understand the above statement. I think you're saying that since we drive our collector cars so little these days (I know I do) that we might as well leave the points-n-condensor system in place, because it will take years for it to wear out. OK, I can see that. But aren't there some advantages to electronic ignitions, such as Pertronix, beyond the service interval? Things like a hotter spark, particularly at low voltage while cranking, greater reliability (new production condensors tend to be junk), etc.

I'm having a hard time seeing why I would ditch my Pertronix and regress back to a points-n-condensor. And if we introduce the subject of replacing a mechanical advance mechanism with a programmable, electronic one (e.g., 123 Ignition) the benefits over the stock ignition system are greater.
 
Dick:

I'd like to make sure I understand the above statement. I think you're saying that since we drive our collector cars so little these days (I know I do) that we might as well leave the points-n-condensor system in place, because it will take years for it to wear out. OK, I can see that. But aren't there some advantages to electronic ignitions, such as Pertronix, beyond the service interval? Things like a hotter spark, particularly at low voltage while cranking, greater reliability (new production condensors tend to be junk), etc.

I'm having a hard time seeing why I would ditch my Pertronix and regress back to a points-n-condensor. And if we introduce the subject of replacing a mechanical advance mechanism with a programmable, electronic one (e.g., 123 Ignition) the benefits over the stock ignition system are greater.
Jay,
I agree that there are lots of advantages of one of the aftermarket ignition systems over the stock points. You name several, I'd add more accurate dwell and eliminating the tiresome task of dialing in the dwell on a stock set up. If your aftermarket ignition system is working well, I'd keep it. If it fails like Mike's did, I'd consider reinstalling the stock points...if not as a final choice but at least long enough to research the aftermarket options. I've tried Pertronix modules for other cars in the past (not BMWs) but I have never noticed a performance increase (acceleration, fuel mileage, ease of starting, etc) in so doing. When I have a stock points system that is working well I tend to keep it. But that's just me.
 
Jay,
I agree that there are lots of advantages of one of the aftermarket ignition systems over the stock points. You name several, I'd add more accurate dwell and eliminating the tiresome task of dialing in the dwell on a stock set up. If your aftermarket ignition system is working well, I'd keep it.
OK, got it! Thank you for the clarification.

I too have temporarily re-installed points when the electronic ignition appeared to have failed. The root cause of that problem wasn't the Pertronix; it was a failed voltage regulator that allowed the alternator to put out ~20 volts, frying anything electronic, including my tach, as well as the Pertronix. Naturally, this happened on a Sunday, miles from home, out in the middle of nowhere.
 
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