Based on how much the interior panels vibrate and resonate by tapping on them this seems like an excellent way to cover them all
Some sound insulation.
- Thread starter OCCoupe
- Start date
How many square feet of product is needed to cover inside the cabin? Cascade VB-3 comes in 12 square foot packages, and VB-4 in 14 square foot.
I just bought sound deadener for my winter project from second skin, my recollection is that I calculated about 32 square feet. that was for the adhesive tiles, spray will be more especially if you are doing front and rear cavities and the ceiling.
Alice, I believe I used 3 gallons since it is a liquid. I did not calculate square feet.
This?
could use the acoustic insulation paint and then dyno Matt on top !!!
Ie no dyno Matt in the doors and roof lining areas
Ie no dyno Matt in the doors and roof lining areas
Thanks all. I used Lizard Skin heat shield, and Lizard Skin acoustic coating. But want to put Dynamat or similar in strategic areas since it is a bare metal shell right now.
My car was Dominator coated inside (including roof) and underneath (including inside fenders as it has 3 properties Acoustic/anti corrosion/wear protection (it's as hard as.) You can tint it any colour you like. See Pics I then used Dyna Mat internally floors/firewall/inside doors/and special acoustic dyna mat in the roof. I then placed felt over the dyna mat (on the floor) and carpet over that. I have absolutely no road noise at all (can't even hear tire noise) and no firewall heat what so ever. Very happy with the set up.
i lined the whole inside with padding -came out well
This looks nice. Good job Mike.
I used a similar product called Lizard Skin.
Used in many hot rods in place of matting type materials.
There are two products.
One for heat abatement and another for sound.
You can apply one over the other.
Actual build up is probably 4-5 mils thick and has a texture.
It's white so your painter can tint it any color you like. Mine is blue like my car.
You can do the roof as well.
Seems to work well once I got all the air noise eliminated in my coupe.
Was not cheap.
Product cost was over $300 plus cost for painter to spray. Cheap though compared to Dynamat and all the labor it takes to install.
I used this based on many good reports all over the web.
I used a similar product called Lizard Skin.
Used in many hot rods in place of matting type materials.
There are two products.
One for heat abatement and another for sound.
You can apply one over the other.
Actual build up is probably 4-5 mils thick and has a texture.
It's white so your painter can tint it any color you like. Mine is blue like my car.
You can do the roof as well.
Seems to work well once I got all the air noise eliminated in my coupe.
Was not cheap.
Product cost was over $300 plus cost for painter to spray. Cheap though compared to Dynamat and all the labor it takes to install.
I used this based on many good reports all over the web.
In an old car, I want to feel like I'm in an old car. Not a new Mercedes. I like them to, leak, smoke and piss off the neighbors (not in that order)
Are we talking about cars or wives?
I plan to go with no sound insulation and perlon carpet. Should be nice and loud. If I want a quiet car I can drive my minivan. 
I’m trying to wrap my head around this spray on sound insulation thing. Since the noise come from the sheet metal panels vibrating, you need to have enough mass attached to these panels to dissipate those vibrations. How can a thin coat of paint like substance possibly be have enough mass to absorb those vibrations? A Dynamat type product gets results from its mass and thickness to dissipate the vibration. Sure the spray stuff is much easier to apply. And also much lighter. But in this case, light weight is the opposite of what is needed. I’m not sure I understand how a few mils of paint, however thick it is, could achieve the same results.
What am I missing here?
What am I missing here?
@Bmachine Bo,
I used it in my own coupe. Just knocking on the roof and doors you can tell how the sound properties improved. The panels sound solid and don’t resonate the sound. It no longer sounds hollow. This with added padding and insulation from carpet and foam the end result is drastically reduced road and exhaust noise.
@HB Chris and a few others can attest to the sound quality.
I used it in my own coupe. Just knocking on the roof and doors you can tell how the sound properties improved. The panels sound solid and don’t resonate the sound. It no longer sounds hollow. This with added padding and insulation from carpet and foam the end result is drastically reduced road and exhaust noise.
@HB Chris and a few others can attest to the sound quality.
I think the answer may be in that the acoustic spray product is more robust than a few mils. The Lizard Skin product is applied at .040" (or 40 mils). Does that make it sound any more plausible?
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Well, I just measured a piece of dynamat I had here. It is 2mm thick. .040” equals to about 1mm. I would also venture to guess that the lizard skin density is less than butyl (just a guess here... could easily be wrong on that). Would that mean it has half the sound absorbing properties?I think the answer may be in that the acoustic spray product is more robust than a few mils. The Lizard Skin product is applied at .040" (or 40 mils). Does that make it sound any more plausible?
Note that I don’t have a horse in this race. I’m just trying to decide which way is going to give the best results. I really like the simplicity and the thoroughness of the spray on stuff. I love the fact that you can spray it on the roof without ever having to worry about it starting to sag. But the guys at RetroPower use dynamat everywhere on their mega expensive cars so I was thinking that they must know some thing that we don’t.
Perhaps, as Wladek said, the best set up is a combination of both.