Starting Problem CS2800

Jago Bret

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Hi I have a CS2800 and tried to start it yesterday 3-4 times and it started to fire but didn’t catch. On the 5th try it didn’t fire so I turned off the ignition but the engine continued to turn over and try to start even though I had by now taken the keys out of the ignition barrell. Weird. The ignition light was also still lit up despite the fact there was no power switched on? It wouldn’t stop so eventually I pulled fuses out from underneath the dash until it killed the cranking of the engine and the dash lights went out. I went back this am replaced the fuses (which hadn’t blown) but now it is completely dead. I assume the battery is flat so it’s on charge. Any ideas - I’m thinking faulty ignition switch albeit this has never happened before.
 

wilies13

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Hi,
after recharging the battery I would try to start with an external plug, so that a second person can see the ignition spark.
Additionally you can open the airfilter housing. While pressing the gas pedal down there should be gas/petrol injected in the carburetor.
This is only while the gas pedal is moving down.
Have a lot of fun !
 

deQuincey

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Hi I have a CS2800 and tried to start it yesterday 3-4 times and it started to fire but didn’t catch. On the 5th try it didn’t fire so I turned off the ignition but the engine continued to turn over and try to start even though I had by now taken the keys out of the ignition barrell. Weird. The ignition light was also still lit up despite the fact there was no power switched on? It wouldn’t stop so eventually I pulled fuses out from underneath the dash until it killed the cranking of the engine and the dash lights went out. I went back this am replaced the fuses (which hadn’t blown) but now it is completely dead. I assume the battery is flat so it’s on charge. Any ideas - I’m thinking faulty ignition switch albeit this has never happened before.
yes you probably forced or broke the switch, the clausor and key is only the top part of it, so if the switch is broken anything can happen, including the car nver start again

funny to see that once the engine is running you can even disconnect the battery, and see what happens

on your case, look at the diagrams, you the “other side guys” (does nothr ireland drive rhd ?) have all that cables messed up when compared to the lhd so i can not assist, find the relay and check from switch to fuses to realy and so on
 

Jago Bret

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yes you probably forced or broke the switch, the clausor and key is only the top part of it, so if the switch is broken anything can happen, including the car nver start again

funny to see that once the engine is running you can even disconnect the battery, and see what happens

on your case, look at the diagrams, you the “other side guys” (does nothr ireland drive rhd ?) have all that cables messed up when compared to the lhd so i can not assist, find the relay and check from switch to fuses to realy and so on
Thanks hopefully not the ignition switch but we will see when battery is charged whether that gets things live again- I suspect not as I don’t believe battery would have drained that quickly and hence probably isn’t the issue.
I’ll have another try during the week and report back.

Many Thanks
 

Jago Bret

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Hi,
after recharging the battery I would try to start with an external plug, so that a second person can see the ignition spark.
Additionally you can open the airfilter housing. While pressing the gas pedal down there should be gas/petrol injected in the carburetor.
This is only while the gas pedal is moving down.
Have a lot of fun !
Thanks Wilies I’ll try that to make sure there’s a spark - had no issues previously with starting so don’t suspect any traditional ignition problems but everything has to be checked. In all the years of playing with cars I’ve not had an engine trying to crank without a source of power - it’s a strange one alright.
 

HB Chris

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If you turned ignition key to off and removed key and it kept running, it sounds like electrical side of ignition switch has broken/cracked/disconnected from mechanical side of ignition switch. Remove bottom cover and see if plastic switch is loose or wiggles.
 

Markos

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If you turned ignition key to off and removed key and it kept running, it sounds like electrical side of ignition switch has broken/cracked/disconnected from mechanical side of ignition switch. Remove bottom cover and see if plastic switch is loose or wiggles.
If you decide to pull the electrical side if the ignition switch off, make note that there is a tiny set-screw that locks it in place. A little bigger than an eyeglass frame screw.
 

Jago Bret

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If you decide to pull the electrical side if the ignition switch off, make note that there is a tiny set-screw that locks it in place. A little bigger than an eyeglass frame screw.
Thanks Markos that’s great advice I’ll be sure to look out for this.
 

Jago Bret

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Thanks Markos that’s great advice I’ll be sure to look out for this.
Ok battery charged and back in car and without putting key in ignition, as soon as I connected the negative terminal to battery the engine started to crank again so immediately pulled off to stop it. So either the ignition is now stuck in the 'on' position notwithstanding that there is no key required to put it in that position or something else is stuck in the 'on' position in the circuitry?

I have taken off the cover under the steering column but it looks complicated and there doesn't appear to be any screws to enable dismantling more like fixings with no obvious way of removing them?

I've seen reference in another thread to a relay perhaps being the problem but I'm not clear wher these relays are located in the engine bay?

Any further advices appreciated.
 

HB Chris

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Your key and the mechanical tumbler insert into this switch which has five wires coming from it. It is held to the mechanical switch by a tiny set screw which needs a jewelers screwdriver. You can see the tab where the set screw fits once inside the lock housing at bottom left of the metal housing in this pic. Jiggle the wires, see if it is loose. If it isn’t making contact with the mechanical switch the key will do nothing. The tab on the mechanical switch wears out the female receiver inside the electrical switch or it has backed away from the key switch.

F7014652-2372-4926-9B1B-CF3D0F4462E5.jpeg
 

Jago Bret

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Your key and the mechanical tumbler insert into this switch which has five wires coming from it. It is held to the mechanical switch by a tiny set screw which needs a jewelers screwdriver. You can see the tab where the set screw fits once inside the lock housing at bottom left of the metal housing in this pic. Jiggle the wires, see if it is loose. If it isn’t making contact with the mechanical switch the key will do nothing. The tab on the mechanical switch wears out the female receiver inside the electrical switch or it has backed away from the key switch.

View attachment 88807
Hi yes I looked at this yesterday on the car buy taking photographs on my mobile from underneath the steering wheel and can see the switch and 5 wires albeit the body of the switch is not exposed only the top where the wires attach and thus how do you get access to the set screw unless you take the entire switch and lock mechanism off first? This is where I am struggling as I cannot see any obvious fixings to undo to extract this entire lock/switch assembly from the steering column area? I will start by wiggling the wires as you suggest to establish if there is movement but any help with removal would be appreciated. Many thanks.
 

Jago Bret

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Hi yes I looked at this yesterday on the car buy taking photographs on my mobile from underneath the steering wheel and can see the switch and 5 wires albeit the body of the switch is not exposed only the top where the wires attach and thus how do you get access to the set screw unless you take the entire switch and lock mechanism off first? This is where I am struggling as I cannot see any obvious fixings to undo to extract this entire lock/switch assembly from the steering column area? I will start by wiggling the wires as you suggest to establish if there is movement but any help with removal would be appreciated. Many thanks.
 

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Jago Bret

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This is what I see of the switch you refer to i.e. just the very top of it exposed with wires.

How do I withdraw this to expose the small screw to which you refer.

Much appreciated.
 

sfdon

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8D62BA49-F1FC-448A-A425-79ED42E004AF.png
The set screw is on the outside, not the inside
Loosening the set screw releases the electrical switch.

#7 in the pic
 

tochi

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https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/ignition-switch-issues.9407/
https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/sometimes-turning-the-key-will-do-nothing.6947/
https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/ignition-lock-barrel.2840/







Running problems can befall even the best prepared vehicles.

Daytona, 1976 - the race was temporarily stopped when participants discovered fuel contaminated with water. https://octanepress.com/content/water-fuel-IMSA-Daytona

Or, as suggested by the pictures, all of the teams misplaced their ignition switch grub screws. o_O





Good gas = Green
Bad gas = Red



It is an unsubstantiated rumor that a certain express delivery service got its start by delivering spare grub screws


Not to be confused with the "more utilitarian" but less aerodynamic "ScootaCar."

 
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Jago Bret

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Ok got the switch out today thanks to the advice provided without too much hassle - the grub screw is pretty small and easily lost!

I managed to get a new one ordered last week in anticipation so am waiting for this to arrive from Jaymic.

Hopefully once installed this will be problem solved fingers crossed I’ll report back.

I appreciate the help and guidance so far first class and thanks to all who have contributed to this thread.
 
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