Starting Problem CS2800
- Thread starter Jago Bret
- Start date
Jago Bret
Member
Jago Bret
Member
Guys
I have just received the new switch from Jaymic see attached image. The switch at the top of the pic is the new one.
The wires are too short to reach ‘as-is’ so I’m going to have to chop from the old and re-attach these to give the length required to reach from steering column (RHD) across the car to the fuse box under dash on LHS. Before I cut the new one I have noticed that the spacing between the tab for the grub screw and the small notch which presumably locates the switch in some way into the female section of the ignition locking mechanism is different between the new and old switches. Does this make any difference? I can trial fit but the car is not at the house so before I set off thought someone might have a quick answer. Thanks
I have just received the new switch from Jaymic see attached image. The switch at the top of the pic is the new one.
The wires are too short to reach ‘as-is’ so I’m going to have to chop from the old and re-attach these to give the length required to reach from steering column (RHD) across the car to the fuse box under dash on LHS. Before I cut the new one I have noticed that the spacing between the tab for the grub screw and the small notch which presumably locates the switch in some way into the female section of the ignition locking mechanism is different between the new and old switches. Does this make any difference? I can trial fit but the car is not at the house so before I set off thought someone might have a quick answer. Thanks
tochi
Well-Known Member
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Setting aside the wiring length concern, not only is the alignment pin location different, but the grub screw receiving end appears to be different. Dry fitting the switch prior to any alterations is highly recommended.
I have previously adapted a different switch for similar purpose, but to avoid misleading you, I can't recall exactly what modifications were implemented. I do recall once helping someone trying to find a working donor switch from another vehicle. Upon removal it was discovered that the switch was held in place with a some carefully applied epoxy. I do not know whether this was due to stripped threads for the grub screw or the missing alignment pin, or both, but while not pretty, the switch was functional.
Although the timing of this suggestion may not be the best, you are probably aware that the switch is "staked" and press fit together. It might behoove you to re-crimp the original switch or gently pry it apart and inspect the internals for cleaning and relubricating. I believe that this procedure has been illustrated on this forum, but even without photos, it is not that complicated. In some situations, the non-metal "bakelite" portion of the switch has become brittle and cracked, making a permanent fix with epoxy or similar cement daunting, but maybe not impossible.
Best of luck
I have previously adapted a different switch for similar purpose, but to avoid misleading you, I can't recall exactly what modifications were implemented. I do recall once helping someone trying to find a working donor switch from another vehicle. Upon removal it was discovered that the switch was held in place with a some carefully applied epoxy. I do not know whether this was due to stripped threads for the grub screw or the missing alignment pin, or both, but while not pretty, the switch was functional.
Although the timing of this suggestion may not be the best, you are probably aware that the switch is "staked" and press fit together. It might behoove you to re-crimp the original switch or gently pry it apart and inspect the internals for cleaning and relubricating. I believe that this procedure has been illustrated on this forum, but even without photos, it is not that complicated. In some situations, the non-metal "bakelite" portion of the switch has become brittle and cracked, making a permanent fix with epoxy or similar cement daunting, but maybe not impossible.
Best of luck
Jago Bret
Member
Hi Guys
Just spent a while connecting extended wires to new LHD switch from Walloth Nesch so that it would reach across cockpit and installing it - it made absolutely no difference lol albeit I'm now £130 down!!
The engine turned over but wouldn't catch and then as before just carried on cranking after key removal until I pulled out the fuse under the glovebox.
Back to square one!!
I might have to admit defeat and post COVID19 get someone to take it away and get it fixed.
At least I'm not missing driving it at the moment!!
If anyone has any other thoughts I'd be pleased to hear them.
Enjoy the Easter weekend.
Thanks again.
Just spent a while connecting extended wires to new LHD switch from Walloth Nesch so that it would reach across cockpit and installing it - it made absolutely no difference lol albeit I'm now £130 down!!
The engine turned over but wouldn't catch and then as before just carried on cranking after key removal until I pulled out the fuse under the glovebox.
Back to square one!!
I might have to admit defeat and post COVID19 get someone to take it away and get it fixed.
At least I'm not missing driving it at the moment!!
If anyone has any other thoughts I'd be pleased to hear them.
Enjoy the Easter weekend.
Thanks again.