Suspension suspense

rsporsche

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Not initially. Not because of some intelligent cogent plan, rather many of the threads here did not mention them, Korman didn't say I needed them and I didn't think to get them. If it comes out silly will get a set for sure. Will post before/after pics hopefully.

are you running 16" staggered alpina wheels? if so, you might want to quickly reconsider - unless your fender lips are already rolled. you stand a high probability that you will catch a fender lip w/o the lips being rolled and/or w/o negative camber plates. i know from personal experience ... aaaargh
 

snj5

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are you running 16" staggered alpina wheels? if so, you might want to quickly reconsider - unless your fender lips are already rolled. you stand a high probability that you will catch a fender lip w/o the lips being rolled and/or w/o negative camber plates. i know from personal experience ... aaaargh
uh oh... will find out this afternoon.

Prompted by the Steve's query, I talked to Alan Patterson at Korman again today. He said that he did not think I needed the plates on a street car, and that they were more for track cars. I do see rsporsche's point as the fronts look like they could be pretty tight if it came down very far.

Will know shortly; the title of this thread, suspension suspense, just took on a whole new perspective...
 

Stevehose

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You could have Carl Nelson overnight you some. Especially with your 16" wheels you're going to want negative camber, track ot not. May as well put them in now so you don't have to do the labor twice.

Not initially. Not because of some intelligent cogent plan, rather many of the threads here did not mention them, Korman didn't say I needed them and I didn't think to get them. If it comes out silly will get a set for sure. Will post before/after pics hopefully.
 

nimble_n_quick

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My 16" Alpinas rubbed, even with camber plates installed. I highly recommend rolling, even if you dont think the lips will rub; rest assured, they will, and this repair is costly (body work + paint = $$$). Its very easy to do with good results, even with a lowly baseball bat. The key is going slow, and you must have 2 people. You can also rent Eastwood-style rollers from other import car forum users, or e-bay.

Good luck this weekend!
 

snj5

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Good luck this weekend!
Thanks..and thanks very much to everyone else as well.
The swap out is going slow as I am having to 'soak' a lot of nuts to get them freed. I'm leaving tomorrow for a small football game in Miami on Monday, so may not finish until next week. Not that it matters, but here is a 'before' photo (note car on slight incline). Will be reading up on all of the threads on rolling the fenders while on the trip.
Thanks again
Russ
 

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snj5

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Korman springs and HD Bilsteins

Well, it got a bit easier and was able to finish this morning. Took it on a careful test drive and so far I can discern no rubbing. "After" photo below. It looks like the rear came down more than the front, but not sure. Of course, in the "if it's not one thing, it's another" category, the starboard rear muffler hanger broke and it's bumping around back there now. Once I get that fettled, will slowly become more aggressive with maneuvering and speed bumps. But as for 'normal' driving, it seems ok. The car has the Coupeking staggered Alpinas and the usual 205/55 and 225/50 Conti HD. I am not going to declare victory until after a more thorough evaluation for tire rubbing.
Noticibly much tighter ride, which pleasantly surprised. Car just feels more solid in general. Will have the swaybars in a week or so to complete the package.

Looking under the car, the exhaust is really falling apart anyway, so will hit the search function and see what others have done.

Many thanks and best to all

Russ

Roll Tide
 

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blumax

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Long time Alpina and Carl Nelson suspension set-up---

This thread has been debated to death--by all means--ROLL YOUR FRONT FENDERS--otherwise you will certainly experience the front fender damage others have experienced.
 

snj5

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While I am researching and reading up on rolling, are Korman and Nelson springs the same?
Thanks everyone
 

rsporsche

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while i believe, they are similar, i don't think they are exact - or made by the same people. that is a guess on my part ... i suspect they are each made by a company that has done work for the respective companies. Korman undoubtedly worked with some companies when racing. Carl Nelson probably found somebody in a similar manner. my understanding is that Korman uses the same company to make the sway bar and springs.
 

snj5

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while i believe, they are similar, i don't think they are exact - or made by the same people. that is a guess on my part ... i suspect they are each made by a company that has done work for the respective companies. Korman undoubtedly worked with some companies when racing. Carl Nelson probably found somebody in a similar manner. my understanding is that Korman uses the same company to make the sway bar and springs.

Yes... Carl at Korman indicated that the roll bars were the same spec. and manufacturer, although he seemed to say the springs were from somewhere else and based on Mr. Korman's personally derived specifications done there at their shop. While I will do a 10:00/2:00 roll as described in several threads, it almost seems like my front wasn't lowered much, if any really. The rear unquestionably came down a bit. When I asked Alan Patterson at Korman about it directly, he indicated it might not be needed, as it was his experience that when one put the new springs on, some cars actually stayed the same or came up as the originals had sagged.
 

snj5

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Stock and Korman springs - side by side

Parked the car in the same place to provide a direct side to side comparison to folks considering Korman high rate and lower springs. The Korman sway bars should arrive Monday, and an Orangener strut tower bar completes the package.

Have found a local rentable fender roller. Plan on the recommended 10-2 o'clock roll. So far, no problem rubbing but I am not pushing.
 

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Arde

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That is great.

I am still waiting for somebody to explain the physics behind the choice of sway bar arm length, namely the horizontal component of the bar between the torsion bar and the vertical part.
 

kasbatts

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The longer the returning arm, the softer the bar for a given diameter of bar (i.e more leverage)
and the reverse is also true, short arm, the stiffer the bar.
 

snj5

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Rolled + flares?

Upon closer inspection before rolling, it seems that at sometime, the car may have had flares as there are drilled holes on the inside fender lips.
Is it possible to roll the fenders with the flares installed?
Thanks.
 

Arde

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The longer the returning arm, the softer the bar for a given diameter of bar (i.e more leverage)
and the reverse is also true, short arm, the stiffer the bar.

Sure, but the torsion bar connects to another arm of the same length on the other side, don't the leverages then cancel each other?
 

Mike Goble

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Sure, but the torsion bar connects to another arm of the same length on the other side, don't the leverages then cancel each other?

If the lever is longer, you twist the bar less per unit of wheel movement, resulting in less force on the other lever. Here's a sway bar calculator from Circle Track - just click on the torsion/sway bar calculator link and you'll get linked to an xls file you can open and calculate to your heart's content.

http://www.circletrack.com/car_racing_calculators/torsion_bar_rate_calculator/viewall.html

Remember that the hole size can't be larger than the bar.
 
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