TII booster and 3.0 master cylinder compatible?
- Thread starter charofire
- Start date
decoupe
(deceased)
Yes, you can. Feels different in terms of pedal effort but works 100%. Some adjustment to the hard lines required to make up for the shortening of the neck on the booster mounting assembly (+/- 3 1/2").
Just complete this change
I had to remove all the lines to the master to get the original booster out. Was hoping I could get the original booster out without removing the brake lines, no chance.
The real work is welding a new threaded piece on the original rod that runs to the pedal. Was able to bend the lines to make up the difference in distance.
I had to remove all the lines to the master to get the original booster out. Was hoping I could get the original booster out without removing the brake lines, no chance.
The real work is welding a new threaded piece on the original rod that runs to the pedal. Was able to bend the lines to make up the difference in distance.
Not as easy a swap as I had first thought
I am running into an issue with the 3.0 master TII booster connection.
With it tightened up the master it is actually activated a tiny amount. Brakes are slightly on. If I turn the nuts out about 5-6 turns the brakes are dis-engaged.
The connection between these two parts has no adjustment.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
I am running into an issue with the 3.0 master TII booster connection.
With it tightened up the master it is actually activated a tiny amount. Brakes are slightly on. If I turn the nuts out about 5-6 turns the brakes are dis-engaged.
The connection between these two parts has no adjustment.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
The shaft between the pedal arm and booster needs needs to be shortened. If you are out of adjustment you will need to fab a shorter version. This has been handled in creative ways by several members. I took about 2" off of the CS brake rod to put it in the middle of the adjustment.
Last edited:
I am not exactly understanding.
Let me explain what I did and maybe can let me know if this sounds correct.
I measured the distance from the base of the CS booster the the end of the rod. To the end of the rod for the original pedal connection.
Welded a threaded piece on to the end of the TII booster.
Removed the CS rod and threaded it on to Tii booster.(The CS Rod and booster are still intact) The only modification was to the TII booster.
Adjusted the this rod. Matched the measurement from the base of the tii booster to the end of the CS rod. This closely matched the pre-measurement.
Once it was bolted on the distance was near perfect to reconnect to the pedal.
Am I missing something?
space is possible
Steve;
A spacer is possible. But, Doug (decoupe) recommends not doing this if at all possible.
1.One thing just discovered it the spring that holds the pedal up was not present originally. This is one issue that needs to be resolved.
2.Then I will try and adjust the shaft to pedal some to bring it out some. Don't think this will help.
3. Then I will make sure the plunger (Between master and booster) on booster is not misaligned. I remember it was capable of a small amount of movement and just want to make sure there is any type of mis-alignment here.
4. Then maybe look at a couple of washers to create a small amount of space between the master and booster.
Hmmmmm...
Steve;
A spacer is possible. But, Doug (decoupe) recommends not doing this if at all possible.
1.One thing just discovered it the spring that holds the pedal up was not present originally. This is one issue that needs to be resolved.
2.Then I will try and adjust the shaft to pedal some to bring it out some. Don't think this will help.
3. Then I will make sure the plunger (Between master and booster) on booster is not misaligned. I remember it was capable of a small amount of movement and just want to make sure there is any type of mis-alignment here.
4. Then maybe look at a couple of washers to create a small amount of space between the master and booster.
Hmmmmm...
Okay. If you tighten up adjustment turnbuckle on the peddle side can you get the booster rod to draw back?
Are the Tii and 3.0cs master cylinders the same?
Have a problem.
I am attempting to complete the install of Tii booster to complete a weber side draft project.
I verified the pedal and rod asjustment and see no issues.
When I push the master onto the tii booster the master is being actuated.
Maybe 2-3mm.
I originally installed the master bled the whole system and found that the brakes were slightly on.
Just verified the pedal and linkage(adjustment rod) and can find nothing here that might cause the problem.
I am at a loss. I thought about purchasing a Tii master to see if it would install on the booster without issue. I have yet to research if this is even feasible. Or are they the same part.
Going to remove the booster and inspect tomorrow. Maybe there is someing misaligned on the booster cuasing the rod on the booster to extend further than it should.
Looking for input.
Any help is appreciated.Thanks
Have a problem.
I am attempting to complete the install of Tii booster to complete a weber side draft project.
I verified the pedal and rod asjustment and see no issues.
When I push the master onto the tii booster the master is being actuated.
Maybe 2-3mm.
I originally installed the master bled the whole system and found that the brakes were slightly on.
Just verified the pedal and linkage(adjustment rod) and can find nothing here that might cause the problem.
I am at a loss. I thought about purchasing a Tii master to see if it would install on the booster without issue. I have yet to research if this is even feasible. Or are they the same part.
Going to remove the booster and inspect tomorrow. Maybe there is someing misaligned on the booster cuasing the rod on the booster to extend further than it should.
Looking for input.
Any help is appreciated.Thanks
The actuating rod on many boosters from BMW is not symmetric at both ends.
The rod is only supposed to go in one way because of size and shape of the end.
Installed backwards will result in either brakes being applied or the master never releasing pressure.
Did you check for fitment?
Look for the rod end to be in a cupped spot in the master- not on it but in it.
The rod is only supposed to go in one way because of size and shape of the end.
Installed backwards will result in either brakes being applied or the master never releasing pressure.
Did you check for fitment?
Look for the rod end to be in a cupped spot in the master- not on it but in it.