Trailing arm bushings DIY

This job is easier done on a workbench than in the car however if you are creative enough you can achieve this in the car without undoing the brake lines.

In this case I have already removed the bushing and sent the trailing arms out for powder coating.
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You’ll need a bolt or stud. I used a 6” stud 2 nuts and some washers. I doubled up the washers and greased them so they acted like bearings (sort of). You will also need something to push the bushing on the bolt. I purchased an inexpensive Harbor Fright bearing install set. You’ll also need something hollow on one end. A 27mm socket, 12 point works well.
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Using the bolt or stud, insert the bolt in the trailing arm and place the small end of the bushing on the flared end of the opening. Be sure to spray lubricant in the trailing arm and the bushing. I used lithium grease since it won’t promote corrosion. Place the nut and washers on the bushing side of the bolt and the bearing tool, washer, and nut on the other end of the opening. Be sure to lube the washers and threads to reduce friction.
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In this step I used an electric impact to drive the bushing in to the trailing arm. The white stuff on the bushing is lithium grease.

Once you’ve driven the bushing in to the trailing arm you’ll notice that it didn’t pop out the other side. This is where the 27mm socket comes in handy.

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Remove the bearing tool and place the open end of the socket on the hole. The 27mm socket fits on the shoulder of the hole nicely and is large enough to fit the small end of the bushing so that it can now pop through when pressing everything together.

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Once you have finished, clean up the grease and start on the next bushing.

It’s always good to take your time. Little tricks like leaving the bushing in the sun for an hour and also greasing the threads on the bolt help make the job easier and also protects the threads so you can reuse the bolt.

Good Luck! I hope this helps!
 
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eriknetherlands

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great write up! I did it the same, just used a section of pipe with an dimension that matched the pipe section on the trailing arm, i sourced it at my local scrap yard.

i cut the colour of the old one first before pressing it out. A torch does the same thing but I'm not a fan of such overkill options.
20141102_113807.jpg


removal and installation done with this, some grease and a wrench. It's a bit more low-cost....
20150303_222825.jpg
 

jbrubaker001

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Ok, I just completed the removal and install of the bushing, now how do I get the trailing arm back into the mounts. I have not disconnected the driveshaft and I just can’t get the darn things back in. I’ve done this job on other vehicles without this much of a headache. Any suggestions?
 

eriknetherlands

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Is the problem the width of the rubber part, being too large and not fitting between the 2 flanges? Measure it with a caliper to get a value. It should not be more then 2 mm too wide. On my car it was a snug fit as well, needing a rubber hammer to slam it in, compressing the rubber a bit.
20150228_161853.jpg
 

bavbob

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I had used the "Firstfives" site and there is a list of DIY's under "Technical FAQ". The trailing arm bushing replacement is there along with how to make the install/removal tool..........similar to Erik's.

I have a small HF bottle jack that has saved my arse many times. Use it to raise/push manipulate stuff to fit. I used it to get my arms back in place (that's trailing arms although I bet there is an orthopedic surgeon who has used one also...sterile of course).
 

Fritzie

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great write up! I did it the same, just used a section of pipe with an dimension that matched the pipe section on the trailing arm, i sourced it at my local scrap yard.

i cut the colour of the old one first before pressing it out. A torch does the same thing but I'm not a fan of such overkill options.
View attachment 127223

removal and installation done with this, some grease and a wrench. It's a bit more low-cost....
View attachment 127224
Dag Erik
great write up! I did it the same, just used a section of pipe with an dimension that matched the pipe section on the trailing arm, i sourced it at my local scrap yard.

i cut the colour of the old one first before pressing it out. A torch does the same thing but I'm not a fan of such overkill options.
View attachment 127223

removal and installation done with this, some grease and a wrench. It's a bit more low-cost....
View attachment 127224
Dag Erik,
Welke glans voor de Poedercoating heb jij gebruikt? Mat zwart of zijdeglans of ..
bvd
 

eriknetherlands

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Hey @Fritzie, I'll just keep the answer in English, that way it can be of use to others as well.

(Question was what kind of powder coat was used on my subframes)

They should be satin gloss. Some cars had subframe in black from factory, some a kind of dark olive color.
I asked for satin as well, but mine however came out with too much gloss to my liking.

I also had them alu-zinc coated underneath the powder coat, as powder coat is only nice as long as there are no chips. If it does chip, and with installation you'll probably chip it on a corner, then it rusts underneath the layer without you having a change to notice it. The alu-zinc layer prevents rust even better then just a powdercoat. So in my build up the powdercoat is there mainly for the original looks.

Erik.
 

Fritzie

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Hey @Fritzie, I'll just keep the answer in English, that way it can be of use to others as well.

(Question was what kind of powder coat was used on my subframes)

They should be satin gloss. Some cars had subframe in black from factory, some a kind of dark olive color.
I asked for satin as well, but mine however came out with too much gloss to my liking.

I also had them alu-zinc coated underneath the powder coat, as powder coat is only nice as long as there are no chips. If it does chip, and with installation you'll probably chip it on a corner, then it rusts underneath the layer without you having a change to notice it. The alu-zinc layer prevents rust even better then just a powdercoat. So in my build up the powdercoat is there mainly for the original looks.

Erik.
Hello Erik,
Thanks for your reply. By the way; you have the utmost best corrosion protection with the duplex coating system.
 
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