Tranny Conversion

tmason

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Well,I'm going to take my drive able coupe to the next level.I can already see a few question but want to study Carl's and Manual before using any life lines here.
Wife is already asking can you do this:)
 
Make an adjustment for the later Guibo when you cut the driveshaft.....
 
Chiton book is worthless! Hoses removed, exhaust is off and she is officially down. The driveline bolts are tight and I need a breaker bar and I'm not sure on the rpm cable is that held on by a screw?
Thanks in advance,Tim
 
After sleeping on it I figured it out that its the switch for the lights on what gear you are in.
Thanks Don and some point I'm sure I'll need so advise.
 
Tell your wife there are many numbskulls on the site that made the conversion with excellent results-not sure if it will help but worth a try!
 
Mine is a 74 conversion and I think there are 6 but they are different sizes than the ones that hold on the automatic and go in different places (a couple are common). Once you get the auto out be sure to clean ALL the threads and holes and Ben at La Jolla can give you the correct bolts at a reasonable price or I'm sure others on the forum can give you the sizes and you can get the correct grade hardware yourself. Remember that ground strap from the bell-housing to the body :-)

Good luck!
 
You'll also need an assortment of extensions and swivels to get to the top bolts and maintain sanity.
 
Thanks Guys
I already went to the Pawn shop on my lunch and loaded up with some tools and that starter bolt looks like it's going to take a six pack and some choice words!
 
There are proven ways to remove bell housing bolts....
without hurting yourself....
Remove the driveshaft, the slave cylinder, the wires and the tranny support.
Let the tranny tilt down at the rear.
Using a breaker bar, a bunch of extensions and a swivel head [NOT a Universel],
Break each of the bolts loose.
Yes- a standing flash light really helps.
 
Wow these last bolts on top of bellhousing are going to be a nightmare. I thinking maybe removing the tie rod so I can lower tail of transmission to get some room? Any helpful hints?
Thanks Don
 
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If you do what Don says you will not have a problem, only that some of the bolts are different sizes around the housing so be patient. I did it on my back under the car on jack stands (freakishly claustrophobic) with little or no tilt so if I can do it anyone can. And support the back of the engine with a jack.
 
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but Steve, most people's arms aren't as long as yours ... and some of us are a bit wider in girth.
 
I did mine in 2 parts: I did just the bellhousing and clutch bits, then attached the gearbox to that. You should be able to do the same, assuming you are using a Getrag 265. Just attaching the bellhousing first gave me much more room to work. I will say that re-attaching the trans was a bit of a bear due to tight space for the top 2 studs that secure the trans to the bellhousing; I did not have a u-joint or extensions so I had to use a S-wrench, very slowly.
 
I thinking of replacing the starter why I'm in here. It's hard to believe doing this again any time soon. Or does a 5 spd bell housing have more room?
 
You want a hint?

Take the wheels off. Ah- so nice and open now.

Car on 4 jackstands.

Swivel is key- available at Harbor Freight for a few bucks.
http://www.kmart.com/craftsman-impact-swivel-universal-joint-socket-adapter-3-8/p-00923766000P

You only need a short 13mm and a short 17mm socket for bellhousing.

You need 2 long and 1 medium extensions.

Use the breaker bar to loosen. Trust me on this.....

Use the flash light. Trust........

Re-assemble with a 1/2" ratchet and adapter.

Use a tranny jack.

For re-assembly slide the tranny onto the jack once they are both under the car.
Jack goes behind the tranny- never in front. 3x harder in front. You will need two men to lift one end of the tranny while you slide the jack under it.

Jack the car up in the front right side, remove the stand and now you can slide the tranny in and out past the frame rails behind the front strut.

Once all bolts are out - use a regular screwdriver to pry at the bottom where you see the teeth.
 
One more important hint- remove the fan.
You don't want it hitting the radiator when you remove the tranny support.

You do have a source for the 5 speed tranny support right?
The one that is now NLA?
 
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