reedreed
Well-Known Member
What it may be for? Not a door switch definitely. Both door switches are connected and work properly. This wire looks original and has +12V on it.
Any thoughts?
Any thoughts?
unknown wire
- Thread starter reedreed
- Start date
Highly unusual if that wire is brown to provide power unless it is actually red. Driver side light switch has two terminals, one goes to the load shed relay.
Seat belt buzzer?
Where does it go after the carpet?
Wladek
Well-Known Member
I am currently working on my wiring - i checked it and from what i see that wire is power windows related, it is on the same loom, just after windows relays & circuit breakers. I measured it with multimeter & it goes from relay, this wire is also related to additonal square plug (marked on photo).
Maybe @sfdon could share some info?
Maybe @sfdon could share some info?
Holidays here… back at shop on Monday
From what I remember on my 76 E3, I think (again think), that wire was plugged in to the driver door light switch that had two terminals. It would allow the windows to operate once the door was open and ignition off. It may have
been an option on 74 and later cars!
been an option on 74 and later cars!
Last edited:
jvrenaudon
Well-Known Member
Could it be one of the feeds to the circuit breakers fitted on the later Series 2 CSi's - two pop-out buttons located immediately to the right of the odometer re-set knob on the RHD version? John.
The black and blue wires in kick panel are window motors wires. With two wires this must be a mid 73 and later with circuit breakers. When door switch is opened the load shed relay closes and allows windows to operate without the ignition. Door switch will have two wires as one goes to the load shed relay. If you push it in you can hear relay click. As the wire looks to be brown which is ground I think it goes to door switch. If it has power then you have other issues.
Brown wire might have battery voltage on it if it is connected to the bottom of the relay coil.
I would check with the bulb tester first and - as a second step - connect it to chassis. IF the relay will "tick" it can be "comfort" functionality of the electric windows (to close them with open doors)
Good luck
I would check with the bulb tester first and - as a second step - connect it to chassis. IF the relay will "tick" it can be "comfort" functionality of the electric windows (to close them with open doors)
Good luck
reedreed
Well-Known Member
I thank you all for the useful info! Seems like it relates some windows function because my driver's door switch has two terminals. The problem is: if i touch it to the chassis i have my ignition on. Even with no key in.
Close your door and test it again.
reedreed
Well-Known Member
Now if I open the drivers door (ignition is off) I can hear both relays are clicking but windows don't work. With ignition on all windows work properly. I think I have to check the whole entire circuit. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for this section?
reedreed - My car is 72, so your wiring is different. You should have a wiring diagram in your user manual. This wiring diagram is reproduced in the technical section of e9coupe.com here: http://e9coupe.com/tech/handbook/p_102.htm and here: http://e9coupe.com/tech/handbook/p_103.htm
Have you looked at Chris' suggestion that the wire in your initial post should be connected to one of the terminals on the door switch? If Chris is right, and this wire is not connected, the windows won't operate without the ignition on.
Have you looked at Chris' suggestion that the wire in your initial post should be connected to one of the terminals on the door switch? If Chris is right, and this wire is not connected, the windows won't operate without the ignition on.
Easy enough: 12V with door open and ignition off, 0V with door closed and ignition off? If yes = door switch
If pushing on door switch initiates clicking in the shedding relay the switch works. There are two relays, one for door switch and the other is from ignition switch so only one should be clicking.
Don't know why you have that wire, but for sure I now know i can start your car without your key... always a cool feature on somebody else's car.
reedreed
Well-Known Member
Thanks for your comment. I have both relays are clicking if pushing on door switch (ignition off). I think i have some wrong connection here at relay base.
I would recommend to check if the relays used are the correct ones.
The one on the picture is coming from modern era, not from 70's.
Note relays are different inside. BMW in modern era started to use color coding for them for easy identification.
Wrong relay type can be direct cause of improper functionality of electrical system in Your car. Might be that this is not the only place someone was using non-original relays.
Might be it was done by purpose (e.g. to bypass faulty ignition switch section) or due to lack of knowlege about differences of electrical components.
The one on the picture is coming from modern era, not from 70's.
Note relays are different inside. BMW in modern era started to use color coding for them for easy identification.
Wrong relay type can be direct cause of improper functionality of electrical system in Your car. Might be that this is not the only place someone was using non-original relays.
Might be it was done by purpose (e.g. to bypass faulty ignition switch section) or due to lack of knowlege about differences of electrical components.
Check wire colors here which I have listed for your mid-73 and on 3.0CS.
e9coupe.com
Coupe Wiring and Relays
This Thread will attempt to display the wiring legends, diagrams and relays for both euro and US versions with photos and descriptions. 2800CS Early (Feb and Jun 1970) 1) Wiper Delay: brown/black (2), green/black (2), black 2) Wiper Changeover: green/black (2), brown/red, black (2)...
e9coupe.com