I follow the Lakota phrase “Mní wičhóni” (“Water is life”) and wash my car whenever it is dirty.
"Washing your e9"
- Thread starter BrewKaiser
- Start date
Howdy! Rather than make a new thread, I'll just ask questions here thanks! So I wondering about how to go about keeping my new to me coupe clean and spotless. I have been going with a waterless cleaner called MaxL. Spray it on, buff it in with with a microfiber, and buff again with another clean MF towel. It seems to work great! How about the interior? Do you use something like Maguire leather cleaner wipes? Or nothing at all? How about the dash? Do you use Armor All on it, or just leave it? Same Q on Chrome? Do you use a chrome cleaner on interior and exterior surfaces? Maybe these are dumb questions, but you guys know your stuff and I am new to the coupe world, I just want to do it right, so thanks! -Jim 
For interior you could use Lexol to clean the leather and Leatherique if you need to restore the leather when dry.
Armor All leaves a residue I read. SFDon recommends the Klasse German wax for exterior, and for black trim Mother's Back to Black especially to remove wax deposits, etc.
Armor All leaves a residue I read. SFDon recommends the Klasse German wax for exterior, and for black trim Mother's Back to Black especially to remove wax deposits, etc.
I wash the coupe, just like I did the Bavaria. I just take more care with the compressor blower and leaf blower afterward. We all know the prone spots, keep it dry and I don't see a problem. The spray detailers have come a long way, and I use those in between major wash/waxes, but nothing works like a mild soap and water cleanse. It's more the dry part of the detail you need to worry about.
I stopped calling a a dishwasher, a "dish washer" years ago. It is a dish dryer...
I stopped calling a a dishwasher, a "dish washer" years ago. It is a dish dryer...
Great suggestions. I will only add this: I use a gently spray setting on the head of the sprayer, never spray the side windows, dry off the door jams and doors thoroughly. And then I have another excuse to drive. Have to dry out the Bavaria my love.
I dust the car with microfiber and then use a spray on wash with terry cloth or bar towel to dry.
I now use a Ceramic coat which I applied myself. Makes a huge difference. Nothing sticks to it.
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I agree with Chris. Cermic coat is amazing BUT getting the car preped is key. On my Cayenne I went with the lowest bid and he just ceramic coated over the swirls. Want paint really clean before ceramic coat. Once you have it ceramic coated you can use a rinsless wash and the dirt just comes right off. I use this marolex spray bottle and then wipe or if dirty use the Marolex spray bottle than ONR and ONR sponge. This spray bottle is very impressive!
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ONR user here, and I also use a ceramic coating. Speaking of which I need to re-coat as it has been a few years and I have had some paint work done in the meanwhile.
Chris, which ceramic coating do you recommend? gotta like the idea that you can apply it yourself ...
Paul and I have used this but any Ceramic of a good quality is going to cost $75-100 for 30ml. It looks tiny but can do several cars. You apply to a 1 to 2 square foot area at a time, wait 90 seconds for it to haze over and then lightly dry with a microfiber towel. Can’t apply in direct sun and you want a clean surface to start. I wash, clay, detail and then apply. A spray on ceramic is not going to last I believe.
This is a great source:
detailing.com
This is a great source:
Detailing Supply Co.
Shop Detailing.com for professional detailing supplies and equipment including waxes, sealants, ceramic coatings, polishers, buffing pads, microfiber towels, brushes, car wash chemicals & more! Trusted by Pros and DIY Enthusiasts Since 2009.
detailing.com
Professional ceramic coatings are now very expensive since the paint has to be color corrected first where all of the micro scratches are removed. DIY means looking at your paint finish under fluorescent light to see those swirl marks. Use polishing compounds and clay bar to remove them. This can take multiple times to get them completely removed.
I used McKee's37 Graphene Ceramic Coating applied per their instructional videos. I found that if you miss an area ,you can apply again and there is no overlapping marks.
I have maintained the finish for the past few years with Griot's Ceramic Speed Shine and now with McKee's37 Graphene Detail Spray. It is sprayed on sections and removed with 2 soft microfiber cloths.
It seems almost every car show/event has some rain. I use a silicone squeegee to wipe the water off and then dry with the microfiber cloths.
Four years and 20K miles to events in Florida, South and North Carolina and the finish is still like glass.
The leather interior gets Griot's "Leather 3-in-1" before a big event.
The wheels get cleaned inside when the tires are rotated every 5K miles. The outsides get the detail spray when I see any brake dust or dirt.
The chrome trim and bumpers get the detail spray.
I used McKee's37 Graphene Ceramic Coating applied per their instructional videos. I found that if you miss an area ,you can apply again and there is no overlapping marks.
I have maintained the finish for the past few years with Griot's Ceramic Speed Shine and now with McKee's37 Graphene Detail Spray. It is sprayed on sections and removed with 2 soft microfiber cloths.
It seems almost every car show/event has some rain. I use a silicone squeegee to wipe the water off and then dry with the microfiber cloths.
Four years and 20K miles to events in Florida, South and North Carolina and the finish is still like glass.
The leather interior gets Griot's "Leather 3-in-1" before a big event.
The wheels get cleaned inside when the tires are rotated every 5K miles. The outsides get the detail spray when I see any brake dust or dirt.
The chrome trim and bumpers get the detail spray.
Thanks Drew. What brand/product detail spray do you use on the wheels? And what spray for the trim and bumpers? I use Maxl One with Triphene for the spray on wipe off cleaner and protectant. The car glistens with that stuff. Works great!
For the dash, I use petroleum jelly. Yes, Vasoline.
Throw away your Amorall. That stuff sucks. I won't even use it on tires.
For exterior vinyl, I much prefer Black Again rather than Back to Black because it lasts a lot longer.
Throw away your Amorall. That stuff sucks. I won't even use it on tires.
For exterior vinyl, I much prefer Black Again rather than Back to Black because it lasts a lot longer.
Jim--I use Griot's Ceramic Speed Shine on the wheels and bumpers, including the rubber parts of the bumper.
I spray my car down with de-ionized water at no more than 3 psi, scrub with an organic vegan clinical wetting agent and a microfiber cloth, spray it down again, and then place it in a large vacuum chamber I had made. I then evacuate it to 300 Torr and heat it to 60 degrees C for two hours. Seems to work fine.. 
Can't figure out why my gauges are opaque and my seats are cracking though...
I'm with @Arde and @Nachtycoupe on this one.. Wash it. Make sure it is dry..
Can't figure out why my gauges are opaque and my seats are cracking though...
I'm with @Arde and @Nachtycoupe on this one.. Wash it. Make sure it is dry..
Yeah I once again need to redo the headlights on my e39 540 6 speed. Would love to have a glass alternative.
After reading this I need to go look under the car cover and see if my coupe is Still there, or rusted away. At least once A month are so I wash my coupe with water…and drive it to dry it off. We use the Griot’s speed shine in between washing.
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Minivansomeren
Active Member
A couple interesting things on your car - the auxiliary brake lights are a good idea - extra insurance against getting rear ended?
But that license plate really caught my eye. Are you legal to drive like that in TX?