What did you do to your E3 today?

Dick Steinkamp said:
If that is #8 in this illustration...

View attachment 133732

...I would think come of the adhesive backed sound/heat insulation would work fine.

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...key to absorbing sound is mass; so a insulator that is heavy like an adhesive butyl sheet. Kilmat worked well on the Land Rover 109.

Cheers

Bill

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E3 Trunk parts ready...
 

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I know the piece between the tail lights would be difficult to make, and expensive to ship, but do you plan to make that also?
 
Dick Steinkamp said:
What are your plans for it, Bill, before it goes in the car?
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Hi Dick!

I will check compression and journal tolerances (with plastigauge), install new seals and gaskets, clean, paint. Unsure if head gasket; dependant on compression; it has 94K km (58.4K miles). I'll used all the peripherals off the E3. So basically will look like an original carb'd E3 except the benefits of a B35. Basically a pretty inexpensive 'new engine' vs a relatively expensive rebuild.

Cheers
 
Hi there,

So I did a leak down test yesterday on the used M30B35 engine I purchased. It failed; lots of leakage past the intake and exhaust valves. In hindsight not surprising; looking into the intake and exhaust ports and into the removed intake manifold, they are coated with thick black oily buildup. So...I will remove the head and see what condition the valves are in; could just be build. In that case a thorough clean, lap each valve and new valve seals...

I may start a post for a M30B35 long block swap. Maybe.

On a more positive note, I received my front seats belts back from Al. He did his usual magic. Replaced the webbing (BMW specs), replaced a return spring and a male buckle, cleaned and oiled the mechanism.

Cheers,
Bill

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I always put the head up like you have it in the pic and fill the combustion chambers, one at a time with rubbing alcohol to see if/where the valves are leaking. Please keep in mind that I am also always planning to disassemble, clean and replace valve guide seals - I'm not sure if alcohol will hurt seals that are intended for re-use. I have also used water in the same way, but I think alcohol is thinner than water.
 
Hi there

I fixed the rattle caused by these lil parts deteriorating, in the rear doors. I had the doors apart before but can't remember why I did change these out then. When I had the vapour barrier off this time, I sprayed on some cavity wax to guard against moisture issues and lubbed the mechanisms. Gonna to the passenger side door today.

Regards

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I installed the panel that goes across the back of the trunk that @alprada70 is reproducing (He also reproduces the rest of the E3 trunk trim pieces)...

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I also adjusted the idle. It's a little tricky since my 38/38 Webers don't have a mechanism to increase the throttle opening when the AC compressor kicks in. These new Sanden style compressors don't pull the idle down much but it is still a compromise to have it too fast at idle with the compressor off and too slow with it on.
 
Dick Steinkamp said:
I installed the panel that goes across the back of the trunk that @alprada70 is reproducing (He also reproduces the rest of the E3 trunk trim pieces)...

View attachment 147532

I also adjusted the idle. It's a little tricky since my 38/38 Webers don't have a mechanism to increase the throttle opening when the AC compressor kicks in. These new Sanden style compressors don't pull the idle down much but it is still a compromise to have it too fast at idle with the compressor off and too slow with it on.
Click to expand...
Good work Dick, all of these adjustments are a "compromise"! Experience rules!
 
Dick Steinkamp said:
I installed the panel that goes across the back of the trunk that @alprada70 is reproducing (He also reproduces the rest of the E3 trunk trim pieces)...

View attachment 147532

I also adjusted the idle. It's a little tricky since my 38/38 Webers don't have a mechanism to increase the throttle opening when the AC compressor kicks in. These new Sanden style compressors don't pull the idle down much but it is still a compromise to have it too fast at idle with the compressor off and too slow with it on.
Click to expand...

a/c idle solenoid install

To occupy my time while my head is being worked on I installed a solenoid that will bump the idle speed when the a/c compressor cycles on. I was going to use vacuum advance but 61Porsche sent a link from another forum with the electric solenoid. It's an ES-44 model and cost $25, I fabricated...
e9coupe.com e9coupe.com
 
Ted,
I wore the shirt you made for me at Legends of the Autobahn in Monterey. Lots of compliments.

BTW, I do not adhere to the saying "If it's too low...you're too old". ;)
 
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