Where are we with replacement Alternators? Lots of threads here with NLA Alternative Parts

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tdgray

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So my alternator is apparently now deceased. Voltage regulator tests okay but since it has a hole in housing I am dubious.

I'd like to replace it with an internal regulated model.

Lots of information here but some of the threads are so old the parts, part numbers , links are no good.

What is the latest greatest information?

Oh and yes I know I could have it rebuilt but since I can find no part number on it and it fits kinda wonky I am pretty sure it is a not so good replacement part. Not interested in investing the money in it.

Thanks as always
 
Thanks Chris. I did not even think to check Pelican.... now if they ACTUALLY have it.... I will be shocked.

I'll give it a shot. Price is not horrible.

Personally... I was thinking it would be a lot more complicated.
 
What a shame… back when I was into early 911s and 914s they were a great resource. Then I think they got bought by someone.
 
tdgray said:
What a shame… back when I was into early 911s and 914s they were a great resource. Then I think they got bought by someone.
Click to expand...
Pelican Parts is owned by ECS Tuning, which acquired the company in September 2017. ECS Tuning itself is a portfolio company of Bertram Capital, a private equity firm.
As of 2026, Pelican Parts operates under the umbrella of Enthusiast Auto Holdings (EAH), a group that also includes ECS Tuning, Turner Motorsport, and other automotive brands.
  • Original Founders: Wayne Dempsey and Tom Gould founded Pelican Parts in 1997.
  • Acquisition: In 2017, the company was sold to ECS Tuning, though founder Wayne Dempsey retained the race car restoration side of the business (Dempsey Motorsports).
  • Operations: Despite the acquisition, Pelican Parts has continued to operate as a separate brand, often maintaining its own staff and, as of 2018, its own, independent, and separate warehouse in California.
 
you mean when I look at ECS tuning, Turner motorsports, or pelican for price matching or price availability. I’m actually just searching the same parent company? Interesting that they don’t seem to share stock at all between them. I do order quite a bit from ECS tuning as they tend to ship relatively quickly and have a fair amount of parts available. Turner and pelican are more of backup for me. I continue to be relatively impressed by AutoHaus AZ.
 
I’m a little confused… yes… it’s my natural state.

Tried to search for some direction on eliminating the external voltage regulator and the only thing I can find is run the blue wire to the d+ terminal.

What about the rest of the wiring and is this even accurate?
 
with the internal regulator, there are 3 wires that did run to the external regulator (blue, black + brown). the blue wire was the only wire that left the voltage regulator - it went to the program tester and on to the idiot light on the instrument cluster (battery charge tell tale).

when you eliminate the external voltage regulator - remove the tape off of the wiring harness between the alternator + voltage regulator - remove the black + brown wires and then splice the two blue wires together (or better, replace the wires with a single wire) to complete the run between the alternator + program tester.

some people leave the external voltage regulator to look original, even though it no longer has a function - i just removed it.
 
Thanks Scott…. It just seemed too easy when I came across the vague explanation. Something that happens rarely with these cars.

Your explanation is much more to the to the point.

Since my regulator is unsightly it will be deleted.
 
i went through it when i was redoing my harness for megasquirt to integrate @sfdon's engine harness. there's a significant learning curve to what's wrapped up inside all that tape.
 
So I received the Bosch AL660N yesterday. Popped the old one out and took a peek at the shafts. That would be a negatory ghost rider. New one is 17mm. Old one is more like 14mm. Didn’t get exact.

So I went shopping… Summit Racing. It’s close to me for pickup. The stock pulley is about 3 inches. Closest I could come in an acceptable offset was 2.60 inches. It’s a Powermaster 1133. I was trying to stick to stock items.

Got it home and installed. The clock position of the ears is not a match. Much closer together than the almost straight across stock item. Then I went to measure for belt. The best fit was about 40 and a half inches. Parts store had a 40 and 1/4 in stock. 1018 mm. Stock belt is 1040mm.

In order to get a tight fit… tension… I had to notch the end of the bottom tension slide to give enough clearance to slide the bolt to a tight position as it sits higher than the stock ear / mounting bolt location. A die grinder did a perfect job for this as you can’t take off the slide because the bolt hits the crank pulley.

The 1018 mm belt was a little snug to get on but it is a good fit as you need to be a little higher so as to stay away from the power steering belt. Oh and use the inside groove of the water pump pulley if yours has two. It lines up better.

You’ll need a mini pin connector for the blue wire install on the L terminal.

Sorry… long winded but this is a viable option. Just takes a bit of work and some fiddling.
 
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