Weldwood glue: that's bad news. My oldest pieces (veneers and solids) are only 30 years old and are fine. But if 50 years is the lifespan, what other options do we have? Is epoxy the best?
Which cherry wood used for 1973 CS dashboard?
- Thread starter Ulrich 3.0 CSA
- Start date
French/European Walnut is stock.
Find a quality local hardwood supplier with a selection of veneers in flat files. Take your time, lots to choose from. Ask what do you want to look at for next 10-20 years? A busy or mellow grain, light or dark...?
I deleted my door ashtrays, don't miss them.
Find a quality local hardwood supplier with a selection of veneers in flat files. Take your time, lots to choose from. Ask what do you want to look at for next 10-20 years? A busy or mellow grain, light or dark...?
I deleted my door ashtrays, don't miss them.
Can someone please identify this type of wood?
its a european walnut. that is what was used originally.
It's so light
It fades a bit and 74s were a bit darker.
depending on the condition of the wood veneer, you can lightly sand the veneer (by hand) to remove the finish. then you can wipe a stain on it and finish it with a satin lacquer. if the veneer is not in good shape - checking / cracking / missing, then you can have everything re-veneered and finished as you like. i used a slightly darker wood with a clear finish. US walnut is generally a little darker than european walnut and is often figured which adds to color definition.
My door trim got severely crushed. I'm not sure that will buff out
nope, that's a repair the base / re-veneer. you could probably do just the door / side pieces so they match and get the veneer / color close to the dash. in order to remove / replace the dash, the windshield has to come out.
Yea, dash stays in. I was considering deleting the ash trays thought
i wouldn't do that ... looks better with them on the door, even if you don't use them. i turned mine into spots for tweeters, replacing the vinyl with perforated metal.
The challenge with solid wood, aside from the obvious difficulty in carving it, is that it is likely to warp. Pplywood is much less likely to warp because it has grain running in several directions.
Veneers are usually quite stable, and fairly easy to redo. The challenge I found was in removing the old veneer. It came off the rear wood pieces and the instrument cowl easily, but not so much the doors...