WTB: M30B34

sfdon

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sfdon

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10:1 pistons... why swap?
Stick a cam in it and you are done
Schricks are back in stock in August.
 

BuzzBomb

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Here ya go...
The b34 is a direct drop in into a coupe with correct motor mount holes
The b35 needs a special adapter plate to mount into a coupe except for [the one year only- incorrect] 1988 and 1989 e24 block which DOES drop into a coupe here in the states.
And of course all bets are off if it is a euro 1988 because I've never seen one!
You folks got b35 cars years earlier than us.
Differences are- double valve springs on the b35, and all '87-88 b34s
Different intake port shape on b35
Different combustion chamber on b35
Oil chain tensioner on b35, and all '87-88 b34s
Oil pump on the b35 is interchangeable with all b34s, the b35 pickup was changed to accommodate the Oil pan on b35 in e32/34 series chassis cars
Oil filter housing, unless it's from an e24 with a b35, which shares the same housing as '87-88 b34
Bigger intake valve

If you are going with custom pistons- you can use any engine you want with this warning-

Never
Ever
Ever
Use an b34 oil filter on a b35 block without first blocking the hole in the left side of the oil filter mounting spot unless it's from a '87-88 b34.

Fixed for clarification.
 

BuzzBomb

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yep that's a good place to start... ive requested it now
this whole b35vs b34 usa / b34 euro question...
my very short and not confidently accurate research shows that these three engines have the same bore / stroke, so I'm assuming all the compression ratio difference is in the piston shape ???
Both pistons and head.
if one was planning to run webers and going to rebuild said engine with new pistons anyway would it actually make any difference what the donor was ?
or am I over simplifying it ?
This makes it even more simple. The thing that made the b35 special was increased compression (over catalyzed b34 engines), a better breathing head, and motronic 1.3. Besides that, no benefit.
In your case, running carbs will rule out 1.3. Your intake manifolds will have b34 shaped ports, so moving to a b35 head would mean you'd have to open up the ports to match the head (if you're doing it right).
Your best recipe is:
Any b34 block to ensure fitment.
Crank of your choice (b35 is a little heftier, but you'll never know the difference).
Head of your choice (the increased compression of the Euro b34 made more horsepower than the world-wide b35, so the b35 head isn't that important unless you're increasing compression with new pistons meant for a b35 head). Decide what head (b34 or b35) you're going with before ordering pistons, since the combustion chambers are shaped differently, unless of course you were considering flat topped or dished pistons, in which case you're better off with a b34 head.


thanks for the incoming wisdoms ;)
Andy

Hope this helps clarify some things.
 

sfdon

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Warriors game tonight - I'm off work.
Thanks for chiming in!
 
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