here i CSL for sale I saw surfing online
http://www.autosportdesigns.com/Sales/Salesphotos.aspx?ID=2375
http://www.autosportdesigns.com/Sales/Salesphotos.aspx?ID=2375
wtb taiga green or orange real CSL
- Thread starter bmwm1
- Start date
Hmm?
Wrong headliner and sun visor´s.. maybe resprayed in black. and a lot of other wrong things
Bad Feeling to put a lot of bug´s on table..
in 90er a few People make a CSI to CSL..
Someone i know had a suprise after sandblasting. A CSI with new Roof
So take care..
Cheers Markus
Wrong headliner and sun visor´s.. maybe resprayed in black. and a lot of other wrong things
Bad Feeling to put a lot of bug´s on table..
in 90er a few People make a CSI to CSL.. Someone i know had a suprise after sandblasting. A CSI with new Roof
So take care..
Cheers Markus
Why do you say the headliner is wrong?
What is wrong is the front seat finish, spare wheel and wheelarches. The inner wing sound deadening is curious to say the least.
What is wrong is the front seat finish, spare wheel and wheelarches. The inner wing sound deadening is curious to say the least.
Blue door handles,headliner,repo fender arches,ETC.... Looks like the rear qtrs are sagging, or the doors are totally wrong ? Drivers stripe is about a foot outta whack. Sure theres more :roll: Not a CSL EXPERT, BUT I DID STAY AT A HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS
BMW certification says nothing about the
condition. But, it really looks pretty decent to me. On the other hand, internet pictures always make things look a little better than they do in person.
condition. But, it really looks pretty decent to me. On the other hand, internet pictures always make things look a little better than they do in person.
Eye test time
But if yours were for sale they'd rip your roll bar, spoiler, and rear side marker hole.
There are always some ways to determine if a car is a real CSL or not. In addition to all CSL-specific details, the matching numbers is always a good start.
If a car has the same engine VIN and chassis VIN, the car is most likely a real CSL. Of course exceptions exist. But remember that up to the mid 90s, there were no real interesting market-values in CSL. Therefore, a "conversion" from a CSi to CSL would have cost more than the market value at the time.
After mid 90s it's a different story. In other words, a good start is also to find out when a renovation was done.
This particular car had also the non CSL details already when it lived in Belgium. These details are very common to do wrong during an "honest renovation". It doesn't mean that it's not a CSL because of that.
I can see the concern about the headliner and the sun visors. But the CSL sun visors exist in several different patterns (all in black). From what I can see in the engine bay, the are some CSL-specific details, which are a little bit tricky to hide or replace.
If the engine nr is the same as the VIN, my guess would be that this a real city pack CSL. Although, with several wrong details. At least the VIN says it should be a Polaris city pack CSL sold new in Switzerland.
Cheers
Henric
If a car has the same engine VIN and chassis VIN, the car is most likely a real CSL. Of course exceptions exist. But remember that up to the mid 90s, there were no real interesting market-values in CSL. Therefore, a "conversion" from a CSi to CSL would have cost more than the market value at the time.
After mid 90s it's a different story. In other words, a good start is also to find out when a renovation was done.
This particular car had also the non CSL details already when it lived in Belgium. These details are very common to do wrong during an "honest renovation". It doesn't mean that it's not a CSL because of that.
I can see the concern about the headliner and the sun visors. But the CSL sun visors exist in several different patterns (all in black). From what I can see in the engine bay, the are some CSL-specific details, which are a little bit tricky to hide or replace.
If the engine nr is the same as the VIN, my guess would be that this a real city pack CSL. Although, with several wrong details. At least the VIN says it should be a Polaris city pack CSL sold new in Switzerland.
Cheers
Henric
RogerB
Well-Known Member
My car was built one month (September 21, 1972) before this one and was a Janurary 3, 1973 Swiss delivery car also (MOTAG). It sold new in March 1973 and had the same Swiss owner for 26 years. It was between a lightweight and city pack car in that it has steel doors and fixed glass rear windows and rear windscreen thought to be due to Swiss law?!!?!? Everything else was as a lightweight I believe? It would be interesting to see if this car was similarly equipted, as it appears to have four window switch deletes and no manual rear hand cranks?!!? The original owner modified mine somewhat with the Ronals and front spoiler, and it now has steel bumpers since crossing the pond. I wish mine had the Alpina steering wheel this car has as shown in CSL brochures.
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'69 2800cs
Well-Known Member
I hate the nitpicking I see on a lot of boards, particularly for little details that are easily remedied. These are old cars after all, they always need *something*.
That CSL though....looks like it's had significant body work, and the door fit and lines suggest it was not done well. That is not cheap to put right.
That CSL though....looks like it's had significant body work, and the door fit and lines suggest it was not done well. That is not cheap to put right.
Side marker hole? I thought it was a mole and was about to recommend my dermatologist.
yeah, i guess your right,,,,, i'll take it to the scrapyard 'cause the marker light isn't on :roll:
I see what your saying .
Simply weigh it! That's how to know a real CSL.
I have a CS and always thought about converting to alu. parts etc. A 'conversion' even with all new body parts would never get the weight fully down because CSL's used less steel in the body and frame.
But think about this guys, (for the first racing version from the euro CS with no a/c, bars in doors etc), they carved off about 300lbs and almost doubled the hp and they only went about 40 mph faster!
So what I'm saying is, for actual performance, one is FAR better off upgrading what's under the hood instead of over-concern for trimming weight. (new cam:twisted.
The L is alot louder without any soundproofing and no power steering also.
But if ya want an L, ya want an L. Better investment since my cs just won't go up in value .....
I have a CS and always thought about converting to alu. parts etc. A 'conversion' even with all new body parts would never get the weight fully down because CSL's used less steel in the body and frame.
But think about this guys, (for the first racing version from the euro CS with no a/c, bars in doors etc), they carved off about 300lbs and almost doubled the hp and they only went about 40 mph faster!
So what I'm saying is, for actual performance, one is FAR better off upgrading what's under the hood instead of over-concern for trimming weight. (new cam:twisted
.The L is alot louder without any soundproofing and no power steering also.
But if ya want an L, ya want an L. Better investment since my cs just won't go up in value .....
N, here's another idea
Why don't you contact everyone (who you can) that owns a Taiga or Orange early/carbureted CSL and let them know your interest. It might take a few years, but sooner or later one of them is likely to sell.
For example, call the nice folks over at Classic Heros in the UK (if you haven't already).
John
Why don't you contact everyone (who you can) that owns a Taiga or Orange early/carbureted CSL and let them know your interest. It might take a few years, but sooner or later one of them is likely to sell.
For example, call the nice folks over at Classic Heros in the UK (if you haven't already).
John