E3 in middle. E9 w/o a/c in back, E9 with a/c in front. yep.
72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration
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Sadly, that seal was toast. I got new glass from W-N. Would that be Euro equivalent, or world spec? If it is Euro then would I omit those clips and use a Euro seal?
I wasn't aware that they were different...
I ended up eliminating my metal strips when I re-installed the glass. The windshield installation was such a bear, 7-8 tries by three different shops, and the seal was getting torn on the metal strip.
Later, when talking to @sfdon I learned that the W&N glass that I was using was the wrong size (manufacturing defect). This lined up with the shop that finally got the windshield installed (broke it on the last push to seal a corner) had templated the windshield opening and ended up cutting the glass to get it to fit. I ordered another from W&N and that one went right in.
Later, when talking to @sfdon I learned that the W&N glass that I was using was the wrong size (manufacturing defect). This lined up with the shop that finally got the windshield installed (broke it on the last push to seal a corner) had templated the windshield opening and ended up cutting the glass to get it to fit. I ordered another from W&N and that one went right in.
Walloth sells the green US style safety glass I think I removed them on my coupe but on my 2800 I had an NOS seal and I removed them and I felt it would have had a tighter fit with them on.
Spent a quiet afternoon at the shop today. pulled about 100 feet of extraneous wires out of the car. I don;t know what the PO thought he was doing, but he had routed two #10 and one #8 wire from some big inline fuses up near the battery through the firewall, through some gaps in the trunk bulkhead (wouldn't that have been fun if the sharp edges of the trunk gap had cut the big power wires!?). There was a particleboard false floor in the forward trunk covered in cheap fluffy black carpet where all these wires ended. Speaker wires everywhere, an old-school cell phone cable to the rear glass stick-on antenna, etc., etc.
Dumped all that in the trash. I am not certain I will even have a working stereo in the car, although I'll probably install a unit to fill the dash hole.
Going to have to figure out which of the extra holes he used to route various wires are original, and which need to be closed up...
Dumped all that in the trash. I am not certain I will even have a working stereo in the car, although I'll probably install a unit to fill the dash hole.
Going to have to figure out which of the extra holes he used to route various wires are original, and which need to be closed up...
You might be able to fund part of your restoration with the value of all that copper! Looks like your coupe will be about 50 lbs lighter.
Having had time to reflect on the heater and dash removal process, I think the best way to do this is to remove the steering column and the pedal assembly. Other than locating the many hidden fasteners, the pedal/column bracket was the greatest impediment in this process. Pondering the re-assembly it is clear that I will have the column and pedals out of the car when I reassemble it, and I suspect that will vastly simplify things.
IMO, it also helps immensely to have the windshield out if you are totally removing the dash.
I will be writing up a super detailed step by step guide for this in the near future.
S
IMO, it also helps immensely to have the windshield out if you are totally removing the dash.
I will be writing up a super detailed step by step guide for this in the near future.
S
Windshield needs to come out for dash install for sure. I removed and installed the heater without removing pedals, I used a long extension and a u-joint socket holder for that one nut that is so hard to reach.
Yep, that's what I did too. Just musing about how it might be easier to get to everything with the pedals and column support out of the way. Not clear yet if that would be more or less work..quite possibly more work, but less frustration, The other thing that might be helpful would be to put an access panel in the top of the heater plenum, so you can get to that middle under dash bolt without jimmying the heater out of the way, removing the bolt and then getting the heater out entirely. maybe just a large round hole (large enough to get the under dash bracket out) with a snap in round cover?
That large bolt in the center that holds the dash shelf down? It isn’t needed, they are all rotten.
But , But... Then the car won't be original!! Those bolts should be useful, but I agree the way they are attached in the wood, they are basically useless...and why so large? Could have used 5-6 wood screws and had better attachment without the complexity and rot.
I am getting ready to finish the interior removal in preparation for floorpan replacement and paint. I was about to remove the headliner, but was not sure how to remove the rigid panel at the back. seems like the headliner is somehow wrapped around that panel and it is stuck to the roof.
I read some threads on headliners, and ran across some posts by @HB Chris that described just leaving it in place and painting it. The headliner is somewhat dirty, but there are no serious stains or tears. If leaving it in place is an option, then I might consider that. Seems way easier than removing it and installing a new one that is unlikely to ever fit as well.
What is the best way to clean it prior to painting? Carpet steam cleaner?
I read some threads on headliners, and ran across some posts by @HB Chris that described just leaving it in place and painting it. The headliner is somewhat dirty, but there are no serious stains or tears. If leaving it in place is an option, then I might consider that. Seems way easier than removing it and installing a new one that is unlikely to ever fit as well.
What is the best way to clean it prior to painting? Carpet steam cleaner?
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Spent a long day disconnecting engine bits. This car is very dirty, and with he exception of the black paint, it does not seem to have had much mechanical work done to it. I suppose that's good, but it makes for a grimy mess trying to disconnect things. The alternator and power steering pump were especially "fun". The alternator would not move to loosen the belt, so, I had to work through the belts and under the very crowded back side below the alternator to remove the mounting bolt. I have fairly large hands, which made this entire thing that much harder. Removing the throttle pivot plate was also a party, since the PS hose sits right in the way of removing it. I finally was able to press the house away enough to remove the very gummy assembly. No wonder I had sticking throttle issues!! Everything in that assembly felt like it was lubricated with liquid nails!
So all I need to do is remove the exhaust, and wrestle the bell housing bolts loose, and then I can haul the engine.
Trying to be ready for a body/paint shop date about a month from now. Should be OK. Once the engine is out, the rest is easy
So all I need to do is remove the exhaust, and wrestle the bell housing bolts loose, and then I can haul the engine.
Trying to be ready for a body/paint shop date about a month from now. Should be OK. Once the engine is out, the rest is easy
And just wait until you are older and just looking at doing these jobs results in cuts and bruises in your skin!
Well, I am 70.. so pretty much already there! My hands ache, my back hurts, and I hate having to go under the car, not so much going under, but getting back up after!!
I think the all time worst car job I ever did was changing the turbo in my son's Audi A4. OMG, seemed like EVERYTHING was connected to that little lump. I did it without removing the entire front of the car (which was the recommended approach), and had cuts and bruises from my fingers to my elbows!
“Once the engine is out, the rest is easy”
I certainly wish I could tell you that is true…yes, you have a lot of room, but the prep work takes some time! Sounds like you and I are in about the same boat. I have engine out and am almost done prepping to repaint the bay. Pulling wiring took a bit of time. Nothing overly challenging, just time-consuming.
I certainly wish I could tell you that is true…yes, you have a lot of room, but the prep work takes some time! Sounds like you and I are in about the same boat. I have engine out and am almost done prepping to repaint the bay. Pulling wiring took a bit of time. Nothing overly challenging, just time-consuming.
It took me weeks to clean the engine bay to the point of being ready for paint.
So I’m not alone. Somehow I keep thinking “I can finish it up this weekend” and then everything takes…longer.
I so hope you are taking many, many photos of every step here. Of each connection, angle, orientation. Makes replacing everything seem so much simpler, I mean, quicker. Enjoying your thread. Great work!