72 3.0 CS 2240344 Restoration

I so hope you are taking many, many photos of every step here. Of each connection, angle, orientation. Makes replacing everything seem so much simpler, I mean, quicker. Enjoying your thread. Great work!
I did take lots of photos of the dash removal and the window removal and door disassembly. I am pretty familiar with the M30 family of engines, so I just labeled the various wires and bagged and labeled the parts. Every part will either be renovated or replaced, so the cataloging is really just for reference.
 
Anyone who looks through my camera roll would think I have an unhealthy obsession with mechanical parts. Nonetheless I still anticipate asking quite a few questions as I reassemble. Part of the issue is that any upgrades mean my photos don’t quite apply. I’ve spent the last week figuring out how to make my e28-style PS pump fit onto the engine, turns out I needed a new alternator support bracket and alternator mount. The e28-style alternator is supported from below with the adjustment tension bar above in contrast to the e9 style that is the opposite. Fun indeed but realoem saves the day.
 
“Once the engine is out, the rest is easy”
I certainly wish I could tell you that is true…yes, you have a lot of room, but the prep work takes some time! Sounds like you and I are in about the same boat. I have engine out and am almost done prepping to repaint the bay. Pulling wiring took a bit of time. Nothing overly challenging, just time-consuming.
It took me weeks to clean the engine bay to the point of being ready for paint.
Yeah, that's what I was expecting too, but SF Don convinced me to send the shell to his paint guy for floor board replacement, prep, subframe renovation and paint. I figure that will save me about 6+ months of time in exchange for X hours of paying work. So I am going to finish my rocker renovation, and deliver them an empty rolling shell that is basically cleaned. They will pull the subframes and strip the bottom, replace the front floors, attach the fender and quarter panel patch panels, block the body (there are only about 3-4 small dings in the body), do the prep and paint, and do undercoating. They will also powder coat the subframes and put them back in. So, when I get it back It will basically be a clean painted car that I can then reassemble.

I have a full Carl Nelson suspension package on the shelf, so I'll probably pull off the newly coated subframes and re-install with all that new equipment (bushings, shocks, springs, camber plates, sway bars, etc.

Sending the interior and dash to LA for re-covering (My Scheel seats are already down there) later this week.
While it is at paint I plan to renovate the wire harness, and all the various trim bits, AC system heater, gauges, etc.
 
Anyone who looks through my camera roll would think I have an unhealthy obsession with mechanical parts. Nonetheless I still anticipate asking quite a few questions as I reassemble. Part of the issue is that any upgrades mean my photos don’t quite apply. I’ve spent the last week figuring out how to make my e28-style PS pump fit onto the engine, turns out I needed a new alternator support bracket and alternator mount. The e28-style alternator is supported from below with the adjustment tension bar above in contrast to the e9 style that is the opposite. Fun indeed but realoem saves the day.
I KNEW there was a reason my E-12 based 635 alternator was easier to work with.. It has the pivot below and the adjustment on top...so it is not just the E28 that improved on that crazy approach!
 
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