Upgrading from Dual Weber 32/36s to Triple 40 DCOEs – What else do I need?

There is a BMW part to block off the fuel pump. I am using that in my car.

I'm running my brake booster on a combination of take offs from Cylinders 2 and 5. Korman built these into the bottom of his manifolds.
 
Hey! While I wait for my new Webers to arrive by snail mail, I have been assembling my parts list and feel like I have most of the essentials mapped out. Keen to get your thoughts and feedback.
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One other thing I have been trying to figure out is how to re-plumb the coolant lines for the triple Webers. Attached are some photos of my DGAV setup and the lines that will need to be sorted (marked with red Xs) Any advice? What have others done?

I have to reroute
* The ~8mm running from the rear bottom of the block up to the rear manifold.
Can this one just to capped off at the block?

* The line running through the firewall to the manifold. Then connecting the two manifolds together and from the front manifold to the T-stat housing
Can this one be looped to complete the circuit? Is so, any parts recommendation?

Also, any recommendations on what to do for a temporary AFR Gauge? Looking for something that could be used during the tuning process and easily removed.
 

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I'll see about getting some info on coolant hose changes. I seem to recall thinking I needed to document where I ended up - hopefully I actually did the documentation. Will check.

I'm using innovate motorsports products for tuning. I started with this and a laptop sitting on my passenger side seat. https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/lc-2-complete-lambda-cable-kit-8-ft.html

You will need to get an afr sensor bung welded into your exhaust if you don't already have one.
 
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Just checked, my documentation on the coolant hoses sucks. I'll get some better information for you on this. I recall that the radiator hoses and the C hose don't change. The hose from the tstat housing to the T in this picture is an e24 hose, and I believe the T and the hose from the T to the expansion tank are also e24 parts. I'll have to check, but I think the hose from the other end of that T might also be an e24 hose that I cut as part of the heater core bypass experiment you see here. (Lastly, not sure about the hose from the back of the engine to the heater core.)

Here is a pic with some of the hoses:

20160330_165231.jpg



Comments on your list:

- I don't think phenolic spacers are necessary for our cars. The big six is pretty smooth.
- I don't have a crank case breather filter on my car. The hose you see in my engine bay vents directly outside. I was told those breather filters can clog and cause problems.
- I am running a Pierburg fuel pump with a revolution motorsports relay/controller. https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/vapor-lock-electric-fuel-pump.34361/post-422763. I actually bought two of these can wired both at the same time with a pigtail and an electrical connector so in case of failure I can quickly swap in my spare on the side of the road. Stevehose suggested a marine connector for the fuel line to make the swap even easier, but I haven't done this. That strap you see around the belly of the pump is connected to one of the subframe bolts to hold the pump in place.

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- I have these horns I've tried and am not using. I also have the mesh filters that fit over these. Message me if you might be interested.

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Ohmess said:
I'll see about getting some info on coolant hose changes. I seem to recall thinking I needed to document where I ended up - hopefully I actually did the documentation. Will check.

I'm using innovate motorsports products for tuning. I think I started with this routed thru a wing window: https://www.innovatemotorsports.com/mtx-l-plus-digital-wideband-air-fuel-ratio-gauge-kit-8-ft.html

You will need to get an afr sensor bung welded into your exhaust if you don't already have one.
Click to expand...
Could I get away with a temp tailpipe clamp on sniffer? I would love to get a permanent AFR inside the cabin but I have not seen one with suitable OEM-like gauge face plates
 
Ohmess said:
Just checked, my documentation on the coolant hoses sucks. I'll get some better information for you on this. I recall that the radiator hoses and the C hose don't change. The hose from the tstat housing to the T in this picture is an e24 hose, and I believe the T and the hose from the T to the expansion tank are also e24 parts. I'll have to check, but I think the hose from the other end of that T might also be an e24 hose that I cut as part of the heater core bypass experiment you see here. (Lastly, not sure about the hose from the back of the engine to the heater core.)

Here is a pic with some of the hoses:

View attachment 225509


Comments on your list:

- I don't think phenolic spacers are necessary for our cars. The big six is pretty smooth.
- I don't have a crank case breather filter on my car. The hose you see in my engine bay vents directly outside. I was told those breather filters can clog and cause problems.
- I am running a Pierburg fuel pump with a revolution motorsports relay/controller. https://e9coupe.com/forum/threads/vapor-lock-electric-fuel-pump.34361/post-422763. I actually bought two of these can wired both at the same time with a pigtail and an electrical connector so in case of failure I can quickly swap in my spare on the side of the road. Stevehose suggested a marine connector for the fuel line to make the swap even easier, but I haven't done this. That strap you see around the belly of the pump is connected to one of the subframe bolts to hold the pump in place.

View attachment 225508
- I have these horns I've tried and am not using. I also have the mesh filters that fit over these. Message me if you might be interested.

View attachment 225507
Click to expand...
The pic of the coolant lines is great. First I have seen without the carbs blocking the view. Ill scope out the e24 diagrams some more. @boonies lead me down this path recently as well.
Will PM you about the horns, but I think they'll be too long. I am going to try and keep my existing, large diameter brake booster. Ill need the shortest ones they make to make the clearance work.
 
So, I just edited the post on my innovate motorsports tuning setup. I started off with an O2 sensor and a controller that allowed for a laptop display. The gauge came later. I believe you could go with the tailpipe sniffer and that same controller and use a laptop rather than a gauge for a display.

Innovate used to sell gauges that looked a lot more like ours; now they are all digital and would be really out of place in a coupe.
 
@Ohmess : that's a really good custom fuel line feeding those triple DCOE's... looks "old school" not "billet".. but I see your fuel pressure gauge neat the firewall. Very nice.

Curious about the manifold.. the Pierce mainfolds are three pieces. Yours seems like a single piece. is that the low profile Korman?
 
Yes, that is the Korman manifold. I talked to him at Hilton Head a couple of years ago about this. Ray no longer sells them - his supplier had a fire and lost the mold and the drawings and Ray didn't want to spend the money to have that stuff redone. Used is the only option.
 
boonies said:
I have these (or similar) on my m30. Although I have a Tii booster, I have not installed it yet. I am just able to clear with the shortest of air horns and filter covers.

I also use Hal’s water inlet spacer. On my first go-round with installation of these I could not make the spacer work with the original water pump pulley, there was interference. I now use a smaller pulley and all is good.

View attachment 224656View attachment 224657
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Lance did you use the 130mm pulley 11511706781 (1990 E32)?
 
Ohmess said:
Found this regarding part numbers for two of the hoses and the T pictured in post #24 above:


And also a note indicating that there is a small coolant port off the back of the block that originally went to the carb chokes that needs to be blocked off using a bolt.
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Thanks Chris, I just ordered everything. The "T" is only available in a 6 pack. Paulaner PM me if you want one.
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D Calkins said:
Lance did you use the 130mm pulley 11511706781 (1990 E32)?
Click to expand...
I just used the borescope to see if I could find a part number. It ends in 6781.3, so probably the same size, but from an earlier version. I bought a very low mileage 1984 engine and transmission and associated parts and the pulley came with those parts.
 
Paulaner said:
I have not seen one with suitable OEM-like gauge face plates
Click to expand...

These aren’t very OEM-like but in the ballpark. I had speedhut make me these. I provided the icons, AFR on the far left. What makes them bmw-like is that the dials are white and located in the center. The bezels are bit large and the center spindle cover is a bit plain and shiny. Best I could do though with their options.


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There is a guy in the UK that makes replica Alpina manifolds

For the hose connector spacer, I bought a really nice one, I think it was from NZ, Markos would know
 
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