I appreciate this more than anyone.
Fixing that little rust spot...
- Thread starter eriknetherlands
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I dropped some parts off at the chroming company. First time doing so, knowing it isn't a cheap proces.
Still i got hurt by their answer.
So, I'm considering to buy from Walloth where possible, but i am afraid they have repro's with possibly poor chrome quality and/or dimensional differences.
I am considering the inner and outer doorhandels from Wally; who has experience with these pieces and can share opinion on their quality?
Still i got hurt by their answer.
So, I'm considering to buy from Walloth where possible, but i am afraid they have repro's with possibly poor chrome quality and/or dimensional differences.
I am considering the inner and outer doorhandels from Wally; who has experience with these pieces and can share opinion on their quality?
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Advice: instead of the 4 mm draining hole drill a 10 mm hole. Not original, but that diameter will drain. Dust and water is easy to enter on the top.
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I bought the new outer door handles from WN for exactly that reason. The finish was awful. I felt they couldn't be used. I replated my originals and they came out like jewelry. Virtually nothing you buy will look as good as fresh triple plate chrome. New chrome parts just aren't made that way. Playing certainly costs more but you get a way better finish assuming you have a good plater. That's the key.
I am happy with the inner handles from W&N.
I have the outer handles from Stefan Ries, again happy with those.
For some parts (line bumper underriders) might not be the best to spent too much on... especially they are not so exposed and they are prone to dirt and water.
The chrome surface is typically not as good as it was in 70's due to cost and environmental reasons (different, more "green" chemistry).
We could dream about bumper underriders (made in Vetnam?) from stainless steel but fitting acc. to bumper experience might not be perfect. Good in a bad 2.5CS does not have them anymore but I like the look!
The chrome surface is typically not as good as it was in 70's due to cost and environmental reasons (different, more "green" chemistry).
We could dream about bumper underriders (made in Vetnam?) from stainless steel but fitting acc. to bumper experience might not be perfect. Good in a bad 2.5CS does not have them anymore but I like the look!
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the outer handles from W+N are pretty good. really ... my original ones didn't really need to be replaced but since i had refinished belt trims, i opted for new. my originals are on their way to Tas ...
Really over the moon happy with today's arrival. NOS parts always get my heart rate up. It's an original, no repro, sound insulation for the firewall. No tears, no crumbles, the foam is just 100%.
All i want to do is zincplate the metal brackets and paint them black, as 40+years did create some rust.
It's the First i've seen for sale in 10 years, and it cost me a kidney, but it looks immaculate on my derelict chassis
Special thanks to that UK guy ;-) that made this possible.
All i want to do is zincplate the metal brackets and paint them black, as 40+years did create some rust.
It's the First i've seen for sale in 10 years, and it cost me a kidney, but it looks immaculate on my derelict chassis
Special thanks to that UK guy ;-) that made this possible.
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Looks someone is also looking to fill the gap next to CS Werk.
www.kleinanzeigen.de
BMW 2,5 CS - 3,0 CSL (E9) Schallisolierung 51481810724
Schallisolierung replika nicht orginal für alle Modelle und Baujahre passend wird 1x pro Auto...,BMW 2,5 CS - 3,0 CSL (E9) Schallisolierung 51481810724 in Niedersachsen - Bad Bentheim
I've seen that add. 270 euro's wthout shipping. Quite expensive for the part imho. It's just a flat piece with correct location for indentations and holes. But being flat stock material, it means it'll be a bit floppy once installed: It'll need adhesive, and then around the middle where the bump in the firewall sits, the foam will need to stretch and buckle. I think it will not nicely follow the contours of the firewall as nice as the original.Looks someone is also looking to fill the gap next to CS Werk.
BMW 2,5 CS - 3,0 CSL (E9) Schallisolierung 51481810724
Schallisolierung replika nicht orginal für alle Modelle und Baujahre passend wird 1x pro Auto...,BMW 2,5 CS - 3,0 CSL (E9) Schallisolierung 51481810724 in Niedersachsen - Bad Bentheim
Did anyone buy one and try to install it?
Still having a repro option (or two) is better then nothing.
Some members also just leave it out.
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I'm for OE original as All probably, but in the end some will need to live with repros.
Having NOS part is the best way to verify (not asking to buy any) as any info can be very important for Others.
Maybe topic for other thread, not here...
Having NOS part is the best way to verify (not asking to buy any) as any info can be very important for Others.
Maybe topic for other thread, not here...
I'm terribly slow in my rebuild pace (started 2012), but I enjoy doing a lot myself. Which means that I have to learn a lot as it's my first classic car ever.
There is no bolt or nut left on the body. I bought my welder after deciding to tackle the rust. So I am going from noob position to All-in.
And i can be a cheap skate: when sweat and money are both solutions, i choose sweat.
Now, 14 years later, I think i've mastered the skill to hamer-dolly a panel to a mirror smooth finish. When I removed my front fenders i took off all the paint, and discovered some dents. Some old and filled with lead, some newer and filled with bondo. And they were very clearly cut and re-welded vertically with quite some unevenness.
But that dented thing is not what i'd like to weld back in place.
It took me about 25 hours (and 14 years of pre-work), but here's the left fender before, during and after:
Mind you, I still have to fix the rust on it
Wrinkles above indicator light:
Smoothed and onto the section next to it:
Then onwards with the topsurface:
various dents:
some dents are shallow where you skim half the thickness of the blue paint, but some are 1 mm deep (1/25th of a inch)
and the vertical weld, above the left front wheel
So I coated the entire surface with a marker, and smoothed it step by step, removing all the dents:
and finally we've got one continous flowing curve
There is no bolt or nut left on the body. I bought my welder after deciding to tackle the rust. So I am going from noob position to All-in.
And i can be a cheap skate: when sweat and money are both solutions, i choose sweat.
Now, 14 years later, I think i've mastered the skill to hamer-dolly a panel to a mirror smooth finish. When I removed my front fenders i took off all the paint, and discovered some dents. Some old and filled with lead, some newer and filled with bondo. And they were very clearly cut and re-welded vertically with quite some unevenness.
But that dented thing is not what i'd like to weld back in place.
It took me about 25 hours (and 14 years of pre-work), but here's the left fender before, during and after:
Mind you, I still have to fix the rust on it
Wrinkles above indicator light:
Smoothed and onto the section next to it:
Then onwards with the topsurface:
various dents:
some dents are shallow where you skim half the thickness of the blue paint, but some are 1 mm deep (1/25th of a inch)
and the vertical weld, above the left front wheel
So I coated the entire surface with a marker, and smoothed it step by step, removing all the dents:
and finally we've got one continous flowing curve
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Yep, once finished with 'un-denting' the panel and replacing the missing metal, it will get acid dipped and e-coat painted before welding it back in.
Very nice work!
I recall my first restoration, a 1965 Ford Mustang that I built for my son when he was in high school. The right rear quarter had been crumpled and badly fixed, much like your fender, riddled with little dimples. I spent hours and hours with a dolly and hammer, and a file until I got it smooth..
Just takes time and patience!!
I recall my first restoration, a 1965 Ford Mustang that I built for my son when he was in high school. The right rear quarter had been crumpled and badly fixed, much like your fender, riddled with little dimples. I spent hours and hours with a dolly and hammer, and a file until I got it smooth..
Just takes time and patience!!