1971 2800 Sahara

Johan_CS2800

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Antwerp Belgium
And now for something completely different:
Angels Landind,Zion National Park. Two weeks ago.
View attachment 170886View attachment 170889
it's a big small world (picture from our family West Coast Holiday 6 years ago)
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Frederick

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Any words of wisdom on doing the door seals? Between not getting the adhesive to actually adhere to anything and not being able to close the doors because the new seals are too "thick", the job is a huge pain.
OMG, Pain in the ass, does not even begin to describe it. I had four new door steals that came with the car, and none of them was worth the damn. The 3M adhesive works well and I wish I’d gone with the yellow instead of the black. It seems easier to clean up and it’s a little clearer. I must’ve taken the seal off on each door at least once possibly twice because as you say, the doors don’t close, especially the rear doors, and if they do close, don’t seal with the chassis. I gave up on the bottom part of the seals that I had. The part that seals into the frame works somewhat well again, except the rear doors don’t close because it sticks out too far. go figure. I ordered some aftermarket stuff Steele and used that for the bottom. It’s a different kind of rubber and gives a little better, still had trouble, and I’m still having trouble. The 3M 495 instant adhesive is your friend, cut and paste at will. Goo gone removes the excess, and even the areas with heavy adhesive. You just gotta let it sit and then scrape it off.

I also cut and pasted with some of the old seal and parts, where they were OK, and seemed like they fit better. I must have 200 hours in it.. It’s also important to make sure the doors fit and I’m not sure you had to take yours off, but I certainly did. Getting four doors and four frames to line up is no easy task. I don’t know why the new seals seem so much thicker in some places, but not in others. On the rear doors the part that goes behind the doorstop is way too thick and again the door wouldn’t close.
I’m not sure I can offer you words of wisdom, but I can certainly walk you through something that’s giving you a problem. I should be an expert at it by now, but I’m not.
I also went so far as to buy some flat pieces and use the 495 to extend or thicken where necessary. Checking to make sure the seals actually touch the frame and do in fact seal is important and you can use some kind of substance to verify it.
If you have specific questions or just need moral support, give me a call. I think in total I’ve spent the most time on the vehicle Between aligning the doors and frames and putting on the seals. I think I’d rather sand, the engine compartment again rather than nightmare. It just takes time and patience and I really can’t understand why it’s so difficult.
 

Frederick

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The project is slowed a bit, but it still keeps me busy with paint touchups, door seals and lately, chasing down the electrical gremlins, mostly caused by me.
I had the plugs on the back of the instrument panel reversed which, I don’t know how it happened but it was driving me nuts. I have become intimately familiar with the wiring diagram, and everything seems to work despite the fact that everything, i.e., alternator and starter, as well as the oil and water temp senders are not connected.
What I find a bit confusing is that the wiring diagrams do not always match the wires in my car. This may have occurred when the car was converted from an automatic to a force speed, which necessitated eliminated all the green and white wires for the carbs as well as changing the instrument panel. but in addition to that, it seems there’s some blending between the E9 and E3. specifically there’s a big fat yellow yellow wire on the dimmer switch that doesn’t even show up on the E3 diagram but without which the lights don’t work. This goes to a solder point on the E9 but isn’t even referenced on the E3. Also, on the E3 diagram, the oil sender and water temp sender use a brown and white wire whereas on the E9, the oil sender wire is brown and green as is the case with my car.
Basically, now waiting on the motor and interior both of which are out of my hands at this point. Motors due in mid February. which was originally October and then mid January. But this time I think it’s for real. o_O
 

Frederick

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I got some of the upholstery in actually everything, but the front seats, needed more material. Armrest don’t match so put them on. Not sure how to match them.
Everything went great for the most part, panels were a little tricky. Backseat still needs some more foam.
 

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