1971 2800 Sahara

Nice and tidy…

maybe try the SEM color chart for painting plastics.


website for down load:

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I would wait until spring to mess with the carbs. I would think the triples are going to be inherently a bit rich when all is said and done. I would want to get the car out and good and warm before making adjustments. You might find that it runs great out on the open road, good and warm - work from there.
 
I data log a lot and drive watching the wide band a lot- your gauge shouldn’t jump around like that.
 
sfdon said:
I data log a lot and drive watching the wide band a lot- your gauge shouldn’t jump around like that.
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All jetting is standard per 45 DCOE 9, in the manual. So, 36 main Venturi and 4.5 aux. I have changed only the idle and main jets which leaves the air correction jet at 155.
The 123 distributor is set at 6500.
If WOT is throttle to the floor then yes. Definitely seems to be lacking Something past the progression and wide open. I have to admit, I am fairly ecstatic with the idle and progression as it is pretty close to steady at idle and smooth through the progression, and believe me this took some doing.

Agree, the gauge shouldn’t be jumping, but I went from having a relay to just straight wiring per SFDON’s suggestion. Red wire to fuse and black wire grounded. Maybe it’s not a good enough ground. certainly before I direct wire wired it, It was jumping around a lot crazier than it is now. Gauge is not mounted, I don’t know if that has anything to do with it, perhaps but seems unlikely.
 
Yeah, it means wide open throttle or as Dirt Bike magazine used say in the 1970s "WFO". Your car seems beyond incredibly slow and unresponsive, so perhaps something more is amiss. I've long lost my 45DCOE jetting specs I had from Ray Korman back about 40+ years ago now, but that was for a bit of a modified and higher compression M30 too. My car just ripped to 6500+ at full throttle. Clearly mine was a lot lot slower than I remember it being, especially in modern car terms, but I do have a video of a launch at an autocross from back then on youtube (that was captured on a 8mm camcorder) to give you some idea of what a ~230-240hp M30 did then...burn 20 feet or so of Gatorback "S" r-compound rubber, and then rip! :)

 
Hard to tell for sure but it does look like your hitting 14+ closing in on 5k rpm? Have you tried 160 main? Did you get a drill set for this tweaking? Change only one thing at a time.
 
CSBM5 said:
Yeah, it means wide open throttle or as Dirt Bike magazine used say in the 1970s "WFO". Your car seems beyond incredibly slow and unresponsive, so perhaps something more is amiss. I've long lost my 45DCOE jetting specs I had from Ray Korman back about 40+ years ago now, but that was for a bit of a modified and higher compression M30 too. My car just ripped to 6500+ at full throttle. Clearly mine was a lot lot slower than I remember it being, especially in modern car terms, but I do have a video of a launch at an autocross from back then on youtube (that was captured on a 8mm camcorder) to give you some idea of what a ~230-240hp M30 did then...burn 20 feet or so of Gatorback "S" r-compound rubber, and then rip! :)

Click to expand...

Well, that’s more like what I was expecting since this is a metric mechanic 3700 rally motor, which is supposed to make close to 300 hp but definitely 280. Would’ve been great to know what those jet specs were.Barely wants to go up to 5000 RPM and the carbs are loud as hell of course I don’t have filters on them.
 
Stevehose said:
Hard to tell for sure but it does look like your hitting 14+ closing in on 5k rpm? Have you tried 160 main? Did you get a drill set for this tweaking? Change only one thing at a time.
Click to expand...
Yes, I have a drill set. I’ve actually tried 165 mains but it ran much worse.
 
Mu guess is that it or the O2 sensor or the wiring is faulty
 
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