1974 mint green (mintgrun) 4 speed project on BaT (NMNA)

Markos

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
13,369
Reaction score
7,502
Location
Seattle, WA
Ah, I see. So you are factoring in your "profits" from the part-out(s) and speaking in terms of net outcome after several layers of E9 endeavors? I guess I can factor revenue streams from other endeavors and make my numbers look better. :) I made $4k when I sold my M3, after driving it for 75k miles. If I factor that in, I am doing better already.

Yes except everything is e9 related and a means to an end. I wouldn’t equate parting a CSI and keeping $10K in parts to profits from an M3. My goal isn’t to *tell people I did my project for $20K. The goal is to do it for that amount, regardless of what people have to say about how I measure my spend.
 

autokunst

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
3,606
Reaction score
2,619
Location
Milwaukee, WI
Yes except everything is e9 related and a means to an end. I wouldn’t equate parting a CSI and keeping $10K in parts to profits from an M3. My goal isn’t to *tell people I did my project for $20K. The goal is to do it for that amount, regardless of what people have to say about how I measure my spend.
Yeah, I understand. But if it took (5) cars to get to a net result, does it really matter what model cars they are? I don't disagree with your methods. I just don't think "the next person" that reads your spend would be able to acquire and build an E9 for that amount (without factoring in an equal amount of side deals, trades, flips, part-outs, etc). Which is to say, your journey may not be achievable without all of the side show (which I have been very much enjoying, by the way). My method of "value" is doing the work myself. My numbers are based on one E9 (and about three cars worth of spare parts :oops: ). Again, I look forward to your tribute car.
 

Markos

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
13,369
Reaction score
7,502
Location
Seattle, WA
I just don't think "the next person" that reads your spend would be able to acquire and build an E9 for that amount (without factoring in an equal amount of side deals, trades, flips, part-outs, etc). Which is to say, your journey may not be achievable without all of the side show.

Agreed. I think it articulated my point that everyone’s journey and definition of done is different. It’s also why I said “My build isn’t exactly a realistic portrayal of all in cost because I parted a CSI and bought and sold my way into the stuff I needed (about ~$25K in parts). Not to mention very fair deals from good BMW friends.”
 

craterface

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
1,660
Reaction score
902
Location
Sanibel Island
Car is currently at 15k, and i hope the seller is reasonable and sells the car if it hits 20k. And I hope the new owner joins us here and restores the car. What lies beneath that A pillar base is what I want to see once it is cut open.
 

Markos

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
13,369
Reaction score
7,502
Location
Seattle, WA
Car is currently at 15k, and i hope the seller is reasonable and sells the car if it hits 20k. And I hope the new owner joins us here and restores the car. What lies beneath that A pillar base is what I want to see once it is cut open.

It would be a great success story for all parties if the car sells for a reasonable amount. I would be pleased to see the body fully restored with the interior left intact. I would also be thrilled to see the car patched up and driven as-is. It he price is right, it is a win win for either scenario. I get much more satisfaction out of reasonable sales on BaT.
 

HB Chris

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $$
Messages
19,418
Reaction score
8,757
Location
Huntington Beach, CA
I too hope it sells but that quarter panel is very telling, it is right where it meets the A pillar and just above the rocker and that isn’t a good sign. No more need to beat this one to death.
 

amg5872

Well-Known Member
Site Donor $
Messages
148
Reaction score
27
Location
St. Louis, MO
I bid up to high teens and the bidding is still going. Now at $28K. Did not see that coming.
 

teahead

aka "Rob"
Site Donor $
Messages
6,383
Reaction score
1,844
Location
Tacoma, WA, USA
I'm godsmacked.

Seriously? I guess my POS then is worth $45k!

The car doesn't even run.

"The car has been stored since 2001, and the clutch assembly for the four-speed manual transmission is inoperable and will need to be replaced."

I guess color is what sold this car. If it was Chamonix or Polaris, it'd go for $18k tops.
 

Markos

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
13,369
Reaction score
7,502
Location
Seattle, WA
Seems like a fair price to me. Not ultra low, not over the top. $25K was my magic number and it went slightly over that. Hoping the buy joins the forum so we can follow along.
 

JMinPDX

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Site Donor $
Messages
1,254
Reaction score
1,273
Location
Portland OR
I guess color is what sold this car. If it was Chamonix or Polaris, it'd go for $18k tops.

I still say the rarity of Mintgrun added $$ to the final selling price.
I don’t know how much. The originality of this car also helped. Some buyers are motivated by the “try to find an other one in that color” status. Especially when it came from the factory that way.
That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
 

Markos

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
13,369
Reaction score
7,502
Location
Seattle, WA
I still say the rarity of Mintgrun added $$ to the final selling price.
I don’t know how much. The originality of this car also helped. Some buyers are motivated by the “try to find an other one in that color” status. Especially when it came from the factory that way.
That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

Agreed. I think that mintgrun is pretty special. I’m personally fascinated by the low production colors. Despite the minor work on this car it looks exceptionally original.
 

Markos

Well-Known Member
Site Donor
Messages
13,369
Reaction score
7,502
Location
Seattle, WA
Before this thread fades away. A helpful tip for the serious PPI. If you remove the kick panels on the car, you can clearly see the outward facing side of the a-pillar structure. Inside the fender (with cover plate removed) showed the front, inside the kick panel shows the outside, and the door jamb shows the rear. Point being that it isn’t a mystery area that you can’t examine to a degree before purchasing. What you can’t see well is the bottom corner. That piece is often replaced and you can buy the small section from w&n!.

Here is the a-pillar on my rusty project car. The rust seen is surface scale. I’m confident that the lower corner will have structural rust.

C4ABF1C0-EE0D-4A4E-AA4F-39374966305B.jpeg


19610014-A247-485B-9C32-8ABF9D694F3D.jpeg


FFA52B33-0C95-4495-B0FB-1504D49A51B5.jpeg


Here is a pic of what we are looking at. Those holes are supposed to be there:
F9F936CE-6342-4608-BA6C-6E1338CDEEEF.jpeg
 
Last edited:

teahead

aka "Rob"
Site Donor $
Messages
6,383
Reaction score
1,844
Location
Tacoma, WA, USA
Good tip.

I'll have to take off my kick panels to see.

I have a tiny u bubble there on each side. I bought w&n patch panels and I was planning on cutting that lower fender piece just like that last picture. Just to make sure all is sound there and put tons of rust prevention there.
 
Top