3.0 CS: correct mounting of starter lid to carburetor Zenith Inat

Testing flaps after activating starting system
Front 100% closed
Rear 90% closed
45A9A1B9-5F4E-49B2-8FD6-FB87C97FE75B.jpeg
4DC9FE4B-1673-4EDD-B476-FA898784B77D.jpeg

Any idea?
Ulrich
 
See my video, and try to do what is in 0:31 seconds
push the lever ( as trying to accelerate) and try to block the butterfly open with your hand
see if there is any blockage
and then kick again to see if they close
 
BMW Zenith Inat manual says: If engine is cold starting flaps are more or less closed (depending on outside temperature)-because if its getting cooler the Bimetal spring will force the starting flap to closing direction


11.jpg
 
Ulrich 3.0 CSA said:
Testing flaps after activating starting system
Front 100% closed
Rear 90% closed
View attachment 187690


Any idea?
Ulrich
Click to expand...
Hi @Ulrich 3.0 CSA
Is that a new fuel pump in your picture?! If so where did you source it?

I just purchased a new "Pierburg" but not liking the "Country of origin Italy" sticker on the box and the original manufacturer stamp being coarsely ground off of the pump:(

Thanks.
 
Well, this isn’t going to help, but I had no idea what a “starter lid” was until I looked at the posts. Even the parts list shows “starter lid.” Does anyone know what it is in German? Is it translated correctly?
 
What sort of rpm is the engine running at in the video? Sounds like about 2000-2200 It should only be at max 1700 rpm What happens once you kick the throttle after running for about 2 min? It should come down to at least 1200-1300 by then Do you know how to adjust fast idle speed? As far as the starting lids not closing equally, just loosen the 3 screws that hold the starter lid to the carb and rotate it until they are equal. There are 2 things to remember about the cold start The starter lid controls both how much pressure on the choke flaps to close them up when cold and for how long the choke flaps take to come right off as the engine warms up The fast idle screw controls the actual speed the engine will run at when choke flaps are completely closed

In a partially warm engine where the choke flaps may only come on lightly and not fully closed, there are steps on the fast idle linkage inside the housing where the starter lid attaches to, these will compensate for different fast idles speeds depending on how warm/cold the engine is and so when you kick it down, it is a gradual slow down back to idle as the engine warms up You may have to adjust the position of the starter lid as it warms up if you find one takes longer than the other to open Ask more questions

Thanks, Rick
 
Hello all
ok after some weeks/now we have about 10 degree celsius in Germany (and only adjusting the starter lid some weeks ago): car starts perfect! Engine is running at higher RPM and I am able to reduce RPM when stepping on the accelerator pedal. Engine (automatic car) is ideling perfect at 700-800 RPM. Like a modern injected car :))
 
Could report the same.
When those carbs are well tuned, the cold start is same quality (or better) like the injection.
Never seem a carburated engine starting like that in my life. (And I'm 58)


Must have is a electric primer pump.

Breiti
 
Breiti said:
Could report the same.
When those carbs are well tuned, the cold start is same quality (or better) like the injection.
Never seem a carburated engine starting like that in my life. (And I'm 58)


Must have is a electric primer pump.

Breiti
Click to expand...
I have to agree, after some advice from deQuincy and rebuilding the carbs on my 3.0cs, the car starts significantly quicker than the 3.0csi we have currently have in our workshop. It is what we call "on the button" it's almost instantaneous. I have also fitted electric "primer" fuel pumps to some of my 50's and 60's cars to avoid excessive cranking after months in storage. Is there a particular one you'd reccomend for the 3.0cs?
 
Breiti said:
Could report the same.
When those carbs are well tuned, the cold start is same quality (or better) like the injection.
Never seem a carburated engine starting like that in my life. (And I'm 58)


Must have is a electric primer pump.

Breiti
Click to expand...
exactly the same here:)
 
Breiti said:
Could report the same.
When those carbs are well tuned, the cold start is same quality (or better) like the injection.
Never seem a carburated engine starting like that in my life. (And I'm 58)


Must have is a electric primer pump.

Breiti
Click to expand...

question,

do you give a second kick after the start ?
if not why the sudden drop of rpms ?
 
Breiti said:
Could report the same.
When those carbs are well tuned, the cold start is same quality (or better) like the injection.
Never seem a carburated engine starting like that in my life. (And I'm 58)


Must have is a electric primer pump.

Breiti
Click to expand...


what do you need an electric prime pump for ?
i do not have such a thing, the original mech pump works perfect
 
i think what @Breiti is saying is, with an electric pump, you get immediate fuel to the carbs and the car starts very quickly. with the mechanical pump that runs off the cam ... fuel is dependent on the engine turning which perhaps takes a few seconds longer. the comparison to EFI is that they also use electric pumps and get fuel pressure to the fuel rail immediately once the key is turned. both work fine (operationally) as long as the pump is functioning.
 
rsporsche said:
i think what @Breiti is saying is, with an electric pump, you get immediate fuel to the carbs and the car starts very quickly. with the mechanical pump that runs off the cam ... fuel is dependent on the engine turning which perhaps takes a few seconds longer. the comparison to EFI is that they also use electric pumps and get fuel pressure to the fuel rail immediately once the key is turned. both work fine (operationally) as long as the pump is functioning.
Click to expand...

i do not know why he says that, so I asked him, let him respond, he might have a reason

on your response, without an electric pump you get immediate fuel too, fuel is already in the carbs, you only need the first kick before turning the key, that kick will close the choke butterflies and inject fuel into the venturis all at the same time

my car always starts instantly and I do not have Eléctric pump
 
deQuincey said:
question,

do you give a second kick after the start ?
if not why the sudden drop of rpms ?
Click to expand...
I wonder by that also....
Usal , I have to give a second kick, but in that video, it drop by itself....

deQuincey said:
what do you need an electric prime pump for ?
i do not have such a thing, the original mech pump works perfect
Click to expand...
You are right, in a frequently used car, there is already enough amount of fuel in the carburetors.
If you don't drive your car frequently, the fuel vaporizing and aging.
W/o ther primer pump, you habe to refill the barrel in the carb by cranking longer.

Breiti
 
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