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SO MARKOS I STILL NEED THE HORN RING TOO?

It depends on what you mean by horn ring, and also
what horn button you buy. There is a horn ring that coupes has (made of brass), and a horn retainer ring that momo horn buttons require ok newer hubs).

If the momo hub that you want has a brass horn ring then you have the right hub. If it has a brass plunger then the hub is for a 2002.

There is another steel retaining ring that holds momo buttons in place. It costs a few bucks. You can buy ones that have both the 70mm and 74mm pattern.

https://m.ebay.com/itm/Horn-Button-Retainer-Ring-for-MOMO-NRG-Sparco-OMP-steering-wheels/122071883519

A genuine nardi/personal horn button shouldn’t need this ring.

A genuine momo button will need this ring. The button is grounded to the wheel hub with a metal spring that contacts the hub, the only terminal on the horn button connects to the brass contact ring pigtail. Good repro buttons have one terminal on the horn button also.

A cheap fake momo button will need to use this ring. If the fake horn button has two wires, you need to connect one of them to that tab on the restrainer ring.
 
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althought i think i know what im doing
most of it is design and theory
and 80% of manufacture
so bill is redoing all of my wiring connections that were good but not perfect
and the routing and purpose.
i just spoke with him and he explained the long process that is taking so much time and money.
since i was an electronics repairman in the army -i know quite a bit about wiring and functions,
yet throwing together a wiring system needs more than just soldering wires together to be neat and clean
and mine were rather rushed, so this is going to be redone in a profession manner that will never cause any issues.
which indeed what this car deserves.
so i going to hear back from him again this weekend and maybe then i can get this on the dyno.
 
so maybe the engine will be started this week
looong time to get it ready
could be seeing the light at the end of the tunnel.
 
Attempted to finish power supply circuits, and found incorrectly routed and constructed wiring.
Attempted to finish crank position sensor, throttle position sensor, intake air temperature sensor, engine coolant temperature sensor, idle air control valve, wide band O2 sensor, and related control unit wiring , fuel pump, fuel injector, and ignition coil circuits also incorrectly routed and incorrectly constructed.
To accurately tune the engine, and avoid damage due to a fault in one of the two groups of cylinders, a second air-fuel ratio meter was needed, which you supplied, when so advised.
The engine camshaft timing was unknown, and the engine had not run, and this information was unavailable from the builder, representing a considerable risk to your engine. The camshafts were believed to have longer duration and greater lift than stock, increasing the danger of internal engine damage, should the timing of one or both be improperly calibrated.
One of the batteries supplied was defective.
We now have a sound electrical power source.
The valve clearances (checked in preparation for the cam timing analysis) were incorrect, some by 40%, and have rectified.
The cam timing location is adequate and safe for startup and tuning.
The primary ignition coil is now correct.
The fuel pump circuit has been reconstructed.
The power supply circuits have been reconstructed.
The exhaust pipes have been removed and a second O2 sensor bung has been installed with correct orientation and clearance.
The fuel injector wiring harness has been reconstructed.
I am now working on finishing these circuits:
Engine coolant temperature sensor
Intake air temperature
Throttle position switch
Air/fuel ratio meter, cylinders 1-3
Air/fuel ratio meter, cylinders 4-6
Primary ignition
idle air control
Monitoring oil pressure would be wise, and could be integrated into the data logging.

I’ll follow up with another report next Thursday, the 31st.


Thank you,
so there we are.
 
yep i want to DRIVE IT.
so i finally got in touch with the dingbat.
not to be unkind , but 8 month to start and engine seems kind of crazy to me.
the santa rosa shop could have done it in two weeks max.
oh well this is as bad and the ding who did the wiring harness.
but i jumped on him fairly good
mentioning the no call backs and all the excuses
told him i was towing it away on the 15th of july
running or not.
maybe that will get a fire under you know what.
i still have to paint the top of the fenders, assemble the console ,set the driver door gap
and figure out where to put TWO air meter gauges.
get the rear strut support to clean up the rear battery issue markos mentioned to do
instead of hanging them. althought i do like them up and off the floor of the truck
so i guess ill leave them .
have to repair a small scratch on the leather seat.
and on and on.
hopefully in a bit i can post a positive comment on how the engine sounds.
 
I think we should grab the car throw some triples on and that should be enough juice for you. Just keep all your fuelie stuff and build a spare motor.
I will come and help and we will be driving in a week for what...2000$ tops? Including my air fare:rolleyes:
 
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