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I HIT THE GOLD MINE -FINALLLY
START ME UP -ILL NEVER STOP --NEVER STOP
Hi Alan,
Great talking with you and you have a FANTASTIC project!
Attached is the rough but close Estimate. If at any time we need any parts or more labor, then we will contact you for approval prior.
It looks like right now, the week of July 15th - 22nd would work. We would need your car for 2 weeks and custom tuning would cover, cold / hot starts, partial throttle and of course wide open throttle. When you pick it up, we will go out on the street and I will make custom changes per your driving style.
FAST AND ROCKET FAST AND BLURE FAST!
Looking forward in dealing with you and let us know if you have any questions or concerns,
Have a great day,
Miles Hechtman
Fine Line Imports Inc.
http://finelineimports.net
www.fliblog.wordpress.com
[email protected]
707.525.1536 PH
707.575.4134 FAX
START ME UP -ILL NEVER STOP --NEVER STOP
Hi Alan,
Great talking with you and you have a FANTASTIC project!
Attached is the rough but close Estimate. If at any time we need any parts or more labor, then we will contact you for approval prior.
It looks like right now, the week of July 15th - 22nd would work. We would need your car for 2 weeks and custom tuning would cover, cold / hot starts, partial throttle and of course wide open throttle. When you pick it up, we will go out on the street and I will make custom changes per your driving style.
FAST AND ROCKET FAST AND BLURE FAST!
Looking forward in dealing with you and let us know if you have any questions or concerns,
Have a great day,
Miles Hechtman
Fine Line Imports Inc.
http://finelineimports.net
www.fliblog.wordpress.com
[email protected]
707.525.1536 PH
707.575.4134 FAX
so ill finish with all the assembly details
in the next week before i tow it to santa rosa
ac case, hood adjustment,
ac hoses, evacuate the system and charge it
put on the driver door panel after setting the door correctly
polish, clean vacuum
finish the trunk trim -
i have a very slight dent in the trunk ,
luckily by one of the access frame holes
so im going to tap and press lightly with an oak wedge.
hopefully enuff to make it invisible.
leave out the tools
have the ground control set up
did i say polish
get the second air mixture guage installed in the second tail pipe
make a guage mount for the two , and find a place to put it- not
many options for that ,
this dash and underdash is without any extra spaces.
so most likely the glove box.
delete all the extra wiring in the engine compartment.
ok
finish a few additions so i can pay for the super tuning
oh boy!
in the next week before i tow it to santa rosa
ac case, hood adjustment,
ac hoses, evacuate the system and charge it
put on the driver door panel after setting the door correctly
polish, clean vacuum
finish the trunk trim -
i have a very slight dent in the trunk ,
luckily by one of the access frame holes
so im going to tap and press lightly with an oak wedge.
hopefully enuff to make it invisible.
leave out the tools
have the ground control set up
did i say polish
get the second air mixture guage installed in the second tail pipe
make a guage mount for the two , and find a place to put it- not
many options for that ,
this dash and underdash is without any extra spaces.
so most likely the glove box.
delete all the extra wiring in the engine compartment.
ok
finish a few additions so i can pay for the super tuning
oh boy!
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refreshing the blacked out area.
need to drop the left side of the hood a millimeter or so
polishing all the accessories
the light covers have those small screws which are hard to handle when not secured
used thin vacuum line and cut small donuts to set on the screws to keep em in place instead of the oem gaskets.
i was surprised to find the edges of the hellas were dingy - and they are metal they polished up really nicely.
need to drop the left side of the hood a millimeter or so
polishing all the accessories
the light covers have those small screws which are hard to handle when not secured
used thin vacuum line and cut small donuts to set on the screws to keep em in place instead of the oem gaskets.
i was surprised to find the edges of the hellas were dingy - and they are metal they polished up really nicely.
Attachments
Last edited:
Alan, You're doing a great job with all of the little things that often get overlooked.
HAPPY FREEDOM FOR THE COUPE
WOW BIG DONUTS MAYBE I CAN NEGOTIATE THE PIN BY PIN SETUP
I CAN DO THAT STUFF !!!
YEPIDO
WOW BIG DONUTS MAYBE I CAN NEGOTIATE THE PIN BY PIN SETUP
I CAN DO THAT STUFF !!!
YEPIDO
Hi Alan, you probably don’t want to hear this, I have no authority or experience to rely on. I’m selectively optimistic, and I am being selective with my unsolicited input below.
I think you should seriously consider dropping a 3.0 carb motor in the car. Buy a known runner for $1,500 or less. Enjoy the car for a bit, and do a shakedown on the rest of the chassis wiring, suspension, brakes, etc. Your motor is a blocking issue.
Bench test the wiring, and the motor. That quote is $3,500 worth of work, but it is what I like to call the “happy path”, not a realistic final figure. Before you even mess with the motor, see if you can buy or build a stim for your EMS software. You can then build a 30 degree stand for your motor and test the engine wiring and tuning. If needed can wheel your motor to the shop and continue to enjoy your car.
Example Stim:
I’m also worried that after you get the engine to fire, it is still possible that you could have issues with the engine mechanicals. I know that you bought the s38 from a builder. Correct me if I am wrong, but he is not around to warranty the motor or address any issues. You could drop $4K on wiring and tuning only to discover a motor issue.
This doesn’t go away with the approach above, but it may be a way for you to protect and refine your investment while you decide on next steps for the motor and EMS.
I think you should seriously consider dropping a 3.0 carb motor in the car. Buy a known runner for $1,500 or less. Enjoy the car for a bit, and do a shakedown on the rest of the chassis wiring, suspension, brakes, etc. Your motor is a blocking issue.
Bench test the wiring, and the motor. That quote is $3,500 worth of work, but it is what I like to call the “happy path”, not a realistic final figure. Before you even mess with the motor, see if you can buy or build a stim for your EMS software. You can then build a 30 degree stand for your motor and test the engine wiring and tuning. If needed can wheel your motor to the shop and continue to enjoy your car.
Example Stim:
I’m also worried that after you get the engine to fire, it is still possible that you could have issues with the engine mechanicals. I know that you bought the s38 from a builder. Correct me if I am wrong, but he is not around to warranty the motor or address any issues. You could drop $4K on wiring and tuning only to discover a motor issue.
This doesn’t go away with the approach above, but it may be a way for you to protect and refine your investment while you decide on next steps for the motor and EMS.
I am not sure why you are having so many wiring issues with your car and more specifically the ECU wiring. I am finishing up the same conversion and using the stock Motronic ECU and the enigine wiring was done in one day. I rewired the whole engine compartment and even swapped out the simple 10 gang fuse block and all stock relays for a more modern system. This was all done within 3 days and fired right up at first crank after priming oil and fuel pressures. The S38 is a very simple engine electrically speaking, no more complicated than a GM crate motor with EFI. I understand the costs involved in paying a shop to repair and diagnose someone elses work, but you have spent way too many thousands to still have a non running car. I agree with Markos on re-evalutaing your situation before investing thousands more.
Gary,
I think the difference is that you are @Gary Waggoner, and the rest of us are mere mortals. It breaks my heart to say that I had to demote @Sven to second place on my man crush podium of enthusiasts-that-are-more-capable-than-shops.
You're funny...and obviously hitting the bottle early today
GREAT THANK YOU FOR YOUR INPUT
the story is this: that ive posted before I have the orig stock numbered orig engine runs fine that cant get out of its own way
i was going to rebuild it as a 3.3 I looked around at other engines and decided , if im going to Change it - get the most performance capable unit.
i could have gone with the traditional 3.5 unit -but i love the design and looks of this engine and " its a motorsport " which lets me run the motorsport logos and roundels.
which also are simple beautiful.
Then i was offered this brand new verified m5 unit. verified by the history of the other 5 motors he built.
i have zero trepidations on the engine--- period!!
so initally i was going to use a similar megasquirt unit from germany yet it was different in the configuration in that
fftec could not figure it out simply. doing that i melded the 5series eta harness to mine for the ucu connector
onwards i got the link unit as its readily configurable. told to me by "fftec"
so i gave it to bill so as not to have to have it towed all the way to san jose again. so bill went ballistic and unnecessarily anal on his approach.
so really i could pull and the eta harness and start over which is would be crazy , as its so well tied in.
as it stands the wiring is ready to go - plug in the computer and configure it - done!
the reason i did this, was to get this incredible engine , ive always wanted this type of performance that is just not available in the stock engine.
if i knew then--- etc. so here i am with a harness i actually dont need but is all taped up and set in all over the engine compartment
Once the engine is running and all the functions work ill go in and remove all the extra wiring on the eta harness that has ho purpose.
at this point in time ,some of the eta harness wiring is providing power to the existing system.
which will all be sorted out when the computer is functioning
the whole idea of changing the motor isnt even in this universe.
this whole problem was my initial wrong judgement on the ecu. which caused all the above issues
now that is all solved. i really dont care too much about the costs as i want the car to perform like a race car
thats want ive always wanted - and now have the opportunity to do so. esp with the stock euro snakes and the 3:64 lsd., 5 speed overdrive.
ive already spent 60k in new parts alone. so ill verify all the connectors before i take it up and drop the 1200.00
i was a electronic specialist in the army and know all about wiring and electronics. its really quite simple to me.
so there i am.
markos the whole project is a blocking issue.
the story is this: that ive posted before I have the orig stock numbered orig engine runs fine that cant get out of its own way
i was going to rebuild it as a 3.3 I looked around at other engines and decided , if im going to Change it - get the most performance capable unit.
i could have gone with the traditional 3.5 unit -but i love the design and looks of this engine and " its a motorsport " which lets me run the motorsport logos and roundels.
which also are simple beautiful.
Then i was offered this brand new verified m5 unit. verified by the history of the other 5 motors he built.
i have zero trepidations on the engine--- period!!
so initally i was going to use a similar megasquirt unit from germany yet it was different in the configuration in that
fftec could not figure it out simply. doing that i melded the 5series eta harness to mine for the ucu connector
onwards i got the link unit as its readily configurable. told to me by "fftec"
so i gave it to bill so as not to have to have it towed all the way to san jose again. so bill went ballistic and unnecessarily anal on his approach.
so really i could pull and the eta harness and start over which is would be crazy , as its so well tied in.
as it stands the wiring is ready to go - plug in the computer and configure it - done!
the reason i did this, was to get this incredible engine , ive always wanted this type of performance that is just not available in the stock engine.
if i knew then--- etc. so here i am with a harness i actually dont need but is all taped up and set in all over the engine compartment
Once the engine is running and all the functions work ill go in and remove all the extra wiring on the eta harness that has ho purpose.
at this point in time ,some of the eta harness wiring is providing power to the existing system.
which will all be sorted out when the computer is functioning
the whole idea of changing the motor isnt even in this universe.
this whole problem was my initial wrong judgement on the ecu. which caused all the above issues
now that is all solved. i really dont care too much about the costs as i want the car to perform like a race car
thats want ive always wanted - and now have the opportunity to do so. esp with the stock euro snakes and the 3:64 lsd., 5 speed overdrive.
ive already spent 60k in new parts alone. so ill verify all the connectors before i take it up and drop the 1200.00
i was a electronic specialist in the army and know all about wiring and electronics. its really quite simple to me.
so there i am.
markos the whole project is a blocking issue.
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Sounds like you’ve got a plan. I will of course follow along closely. Keep plugging away!
received my parts back from bill
he removed the injector wiring-- that was just fine
and he bought new connectors for no reason
anyway i began sorting out the maze
and will finish connecting the injectors to the link unit
tomorrow and then start tracking all the sensors back to the unit to
see what he did or didnt do.
oh yea the first page of my binder wore out the holes so taped it with cloth tape
all those wires down by the starter are from the eta harness which heve no purpose now so ill cut em out.
he removed the injector wiring-- that was just fine
and he bought new connectors for no reason
anyway i began sorting out the maze
and will finish connecting the injectors to the link unit
tomorrow and then start tracking all the sensors back to the unit to
see what he did or didnt do.
oh yea the first page of my binder wore out the holes so taped it with cloth tape
all those wires down by the starter are from the eta harness which heve no purpose now so ill cut em out.
Attachments
SO I SHOULD BE BACK AT IT TODAY
ILL HOOK UP THE INJECTOR HARNESS TO THE MAIN RELAY
THEN SEE IF I HAVE POWER AS I HAVENT TURNED THE KEY ONE YET
THEN ILL FIRE UP THE SOFTWARE AND CHECK ALL THE FUNCTIONS OF THE ENGINE ACCESSORIES
THERE IS A MECH 101 DOC ON HOW TO CHECK EVERYTHING AND START THE ENGINE
EXCITING
ILL POST LATER TODAY WITH THE RESULTS.
ILL HOOK UP THE INJECTOR HARNESS TO THE MAIN RELAY
THEN SEE IF I HAVE POWER AS I HAVENT TURNED THE KEY ONE YET
THEN ILL FIRE UP THE SOFTWARE AND CHECK ALL THE FUNCTIONS OF THE ENGINE ACCESSORIES
THERE IS A MECH 101 DOC ON HOW TO CHECK EVERYTHING AND START THE ENGINE
EXCITING
ILL POST LATER TODAY WITH THE RESULTS.
got the computer working and started to configure the settings
i have to put all the trim back together so i looks like a car again
i have to put all the trim back together so i looks like a car again
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Belgiumbarry
Well-Known Member
do you really mean that ? i have a 3.5l M30 with 210 HP and limiting factor is suspension , chassis, steering … all old school tech. Or do you plan to drag race it in straights ?
WELL ITS GOING TO GO a heck of a lot better than the dog 3.0
checked my ac switch that i rebuilt a while a go and it had separated so i got some thin wire and
slipped it thru the (E) RIVETS NOT ITS FOREVER
ALL THE INJECTORS WORK PERFECT
checked my ac switch that i rebuilt a while a go and it had separated so i got some thin wire and
slipped it thru the (E) RIVETS NOT ITS FOREVER
ALL THE INJECTORS WORK PERFECT
Attachments
SO i had too pull apart the ac plate to fix the blower brace.
mine is the dumb one -that has a side clip type to hold the motor and of course it broke right at the worst part.
before i set some small dowells in it and jb weld -but no luck
so this and last time i separated it a bit and used por7 - hopefully that might hold
outside of that i would have to pull it and really engineer something to make the bolt type clip , well see
got a change to organize everything in there
set all my screw clips w/ strip adhesive. routed all the wiring out of the way
refreshed the home make ac plate.
finishing up the sunroof motor adjustment- it has a special height set by grommets i had to make.
going to test all the lighting tomorrow and anything else i can get my hands on.
maybe ill put the trunk back together. i have a super small dent in the truck OOHHH NOOO
so ill see if i can smooth it out with a piece of oak trimmed stick
luckily it by one of the trunk holes
ok onward going to the wire shop 7-29
they are very anxious to get there hands on it.
mine is the dumb one -that has a side clip type to hold the motor and of course it broke right at the worst part.
before i set some small dowells in it and jb weld -but no luck
so this and last time i separated it a bit and used por7 - hopefully that might hold
outside of that i would have to pull it and really engineer something to make the bolt type clip , well see
got a change to organize everything in there
set all my screw clips w/ strip adhesive. routed all the wiring out of the way
refreshed the home make ac plate.
finishing up the sunroof motor adjustment- it has a special height set by grommets i had to make.
going to test all the lighting tomorrow and anything else i can get my hands on.
maybe ill put the trunk back together. i have a super small dent in the truck OOHHH NOOO
so ill see if i can smooth it out with a piece of oak trimmed stick
luckily it by one of the trunk holes
ok onward going to the wire shop 7-29
they are very anxious to get there hands on it.
so it seems my idea to use one hood strut is not a good idea
as it bends the hood when its up ,so bad ,that it hits the front nose
so i going the standard bmw way with two 12" long standard type
connected to the already existing points for the regular brace.
perfect.
www.siraweb.com
as it bends the hood when its up ,so bad ,that it hits the front nose
so i going the standard bmw way with two 12" long standard type
connected to the already existing points for the regular brace.
perfect.
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