4310316 begins

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i pulled the ac evaporator to fix the clamp and clean it up
easy job to get out anyway
its very touchy to get the compression right so it doesnt
vibrate and rattle. it always was a bit loose
I tried to wire tie it yet it just wasn't tight enuff
so ill add a metal strap on top of the top bent bracket and screw it down like the other
version.

 

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used some soft alum roof edging w/ stronger anchor plates
anchored the new plate with small screws and smaller drilled spots in the plastic
super good connection
SUCCESS! ITS WORKS PERFECTLY AND no vibration and little noise
now i can asemble the whole center console
also there a pic of my home made face piece w/ the 30. inserts glued in

 

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i missed the fact i need two wideband senders -one for each exhaust bank.
bill burned it into the pipe and installed it.
so i routed the new wire alongside the other. it was difficult to get the wire behind
the existing in the back of the motor as theres only an inch, and its full of harnesses.
got it back into the tranny tunnel away the headers and then soldered all the connections
inside.
now i get to routing all the wires neatly with the ac out.
then i can aseemble the console.

 

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good thing to take out the ac unit
got all the wiring tucked in behind.
also i got all the wiring routed into the cab and mounted the two air mixture
guages on the bottom of the dash deck and in the glove box out of the way
and hidden.
WHEN I ORDERED A BUNCH OF WIRE TIES they gave me a bunch of self sticking 4-side open pyramid
that you run wire ties thru.
oh the wonders of plastic.

 

[Aussiecsi]

I admire your tenacity Alan ...

 

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have it fairly well set up
i found some side panels that had cracks from the holes out
so i covered with por7 and covered with cloth tape so they woudnt separate or break in the future.

 

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so when i began and dissembled the car the sunroof cable slidersbroke
so i saved the hardware and set it aside
so i was trying to finish up the sunroof closing today
and the back would not go up and seal
after looking at all the variables i looked at the riser lever
it seems when i got new cables - the lever was longer
go figure - so i set the old ones i had i sure enuff
the longer lever didnt have the right lift height.
when it hit the bump in the roof body
so ill change the other in the morn
i try and finish it all up.

 

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so i stillhavent figured the sunroof closure later for that.
since i made the huge mistake of trying to use megasquirt and the motronic harness
i decided to see if i could take out whats not needed. as the engine bay is a real mess.
so i strippped off all the tape and wireties and am going to start over.
with the essentials .
i just cant live with such a mess in there -two redundant systems one wont even work.
this wiring has really messed me up, oh well live ,learn.
so im tracking all the basics first and then to the aux units.
it is a mess -bill routed wires for odd places and looped wires
on and on.
so im cleaning it up -maybe by the end of the year ill have it right.
and its been two years since ive seen it and i want to verify and remember what i did
iniatially.
ok

 

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so i have all the engine wiring loose and organized without any loops and crossed wires.
and i pulled the instrument panel to refresh all the tape and connections.
in there i noticed the horn ring was missing a screw - this car is so intence
ive done thousands of jobs in my years but by far this is the most difficult ever.
it has so many intricacies and order of assembly , all thousands of parts.
maybe is because i want everything just right. and everything is brand new or repaired.
onward.
added some foam on the rear sunroof runner it was starting to rust back there
so cleaned and touch up paint. looks like ill be able to pull the motronic harness as its looks clear of all the
connections.

 

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finally moving forward
i was able to remove the harness and can reuse the wiring
its much cleaner and organized .
ill set it all back in in the morn
yea. so i have the water temps.
throttle position, idle control valve
trigger , coil wires, and power all in two harness.

 

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dont mean to post such boring stuff yet
i got all the engine wiring done today and routed clean and clear
so ill fire up the laptop and proceed setting up the aux inputs and analog inputs so i can
just take the setup on a file to the tuners shop and save there time.
and 1200 bucks.
then ill wrap all the wires neatly

 

[JayWltrs]

dont mean to post such boring stuff yet
i got all the engine wiring done today and routed clean and clear
so ill fire up the laptop and proceed setting up the aux inputs and analog inputs so i can
just take the setup on a file to the tuners shop and save donuts and there time.
to check it all at 1200 bucks.

Impressive progress! Make sure they get some video/audio when it roars to life! Can’t wait to hear it.

 

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had to check the horn circuit, and the fog light setup.
as i initially wired them to just come on with the switch. yet the right way is to turn off all other lights when they are on
so im rechecking how i did it and wire them buy the book.
also while in there i checked the relays and from sitting the top of the pins had started to rust.
so i cleaned all the contacts with mothers to as new. and polished them up.
and im soldering all the wire connections ,instead of wire connectors
also heres the link pin layout so save to the software to take to the shop.
and i couldnt live with the big gap in the sides of the bottom nose while i was putting in the engine guard so
infilling it in smooth

 

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so i patched the under nose and just put some touchup on it for now
reset allthe headlight wires and figured out how the fog relay and switch
work so will finish in a bit.
made copies of the wiring diag. so easy to follow
pulled the steering / brake tto get access to the orig, wiring colors.as
i spliced in diff colors -dumb
making some progress finally.
i have two switches one green ond one orange
i think ill use the orange for the fog lights.
and green dummy for now
most likey its the rear fog switch i guess?

 

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FINISH LINE- END OF TUNNEL
so i finished chwecking everything in the engine bay and the interior light
had it wrong
and the light setup and fog light interface,
huge relief.
testing tomorrow.

 

[Belgiumbarry]

i would advise a fire extinguisher at hand when you hook up a batterie…..

 

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I HAVE THE OEM ONE WITH THE BMW LOGO FOR SHOW PURPOSES
IM TAKING IT THE A SPEED SHOP TO DO ALL THE SOFTWARE SETUP
SAFETY FIRST!!!!
REALLY SIMPLE STUFF I WAS IN ELECTRONICS IN THE ARMY AND
HAVE DONE TONS OF IT.
ITS REALLY A NO BRAINER WITH THE OEM DIAGRAM
JUST DAYS OF WORK
cut out all the crimp connectors and linear soldered all the joints

 

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tinkering my way along to get it back the way it was two years ago when i took it to get the wiring done.
pulled the throttle linkage to clean and polish and set all the air box components and lined up the logos
and clamps.
most likely ill check the electrical tomorrow to see how it went.
ok

 

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GETTING EVERYTHING SETUP IN THE ENGINE BAY
wrapping all the wire with the left over wire sheathing from the bmw eta harness
and securing them in place with wire ties and tape
starting to polish up the engine bay
and rebuilt the wiper motor . making noise
may put in the orig. as it seems to be quieter.
ordered another hood strut so it doesnt twist the hood.
ill finish up the fog switch and close up the left lower
panels and also set the glove bow
i may get a project in the next week that can cover the tuner
ive set it up for the 19 aug.
finally.
i can convey all the wiring info and software datato shorten the shop time

 

[restart]

Hey allan
Do you ever helix wrap your wires in strategic places so you can see wire colours ...with tape or home cut helix wrap made out of plastic tube?

GETTING EVERYTHING SETUP IN THE ENGINE BAY
wrapping all the wire with the left over wire sheathing from the bmw eta harness