'72 Bavaria resurrection

[61porsche]

Homegrown

Buff,

The toe- the difference between the front and rear of the front tires only. Pick a spot and measure from the edge of the rim. Should be as Don says; 1/8" in.

NTB- currently running a special- $19 until the end of the year.

 

[Buffarea]

This has been a cool thread.

Question on your jackstands-are they the same distance apart front and rear? You're doing both sides at the same time?

Yes. In my case it turned out to be 67". I started by measuring the distance between the rear tire outer edges since they were non-adjustable. I tied the string connecting the 2 sides and the rear jack stands but had to tweak the front string several times during adjustments. I believe toe is set correctly now but do have an occasional twitch in the steering with road condition that I believe is due to a little slop in several seperate components. The lower control arms are among these and is causing a slight camber issue aswell.

On one hand this steering system is great as to how it fucntions and feels when all is within specs, and the fact that it is easily adjustable. The down side is that each component is an added expense to get everything tight.

61porsche, Thanks for the tip, but according to the store locator there is not a NTB with 100 miles of me, but I am still looking.

 

['69 2800cs]

I did the same thing with my coupe-there were a number of front end issues. New control arms, a new center steering rod, and then I aligned it.

My home alignment system uses two bars, about 6 feet long that I set on jackstands at axle height, and then I string fishing line around the car. It's easier than using jackstands because I always know the front and rear distances are the same. I then have to walk around the car 5-6X, measuring the line distance from the stub axles. (I take the wheel center caps off) Once I get the same distances for the front wheels and the rear wheels by sliding the bar back and forth, I know I have a square around the car.

The only alignment you need done is front toe. No caster, camber or rear anything. Perhaps a shop will reduce their fees when they know that is all you need. Should take them 30 minutes.

On 911's, everything is adjustable....unless they're spending 3-4 hours, they're not doing it right! Your situation is definitely simpler.

 

[Buffarea]

I did the same thing with my coupe-there were a number of front end issues. New control arms, a new center steering rod, and then I aligned it.

My home alignment system uses two bars, about 6 feet long that I set on jackstands at axle height, and then I string fishing line around the car. It's easier than using jackstands because I always know the front and rear distances are the same. I then have to walk around the car 5-6X, measuring the line distance from the stub axles. (I take the wheel center caps off) Once I get the same distances for the front wheels and the rear wheels by sliding the bar back and forth, I know I have a square around the car.

The only alignment you need done is front toe. No caster, camber or rear anything. Perhaps a shop will reduce their fees when they know that is all you need. Should take them 30 minutes.

On 911's, everything is adjustable....unless they're spending 3-4 hours, they're not doing it right! Your situation is definitely simpler.

So your 2 bars, one in front of the car and one at the rear? Also, are you saying there is NO camber/caster adjustment on these cars? And if this is true, that means that if it appears there is too much camber it has to be worn control arm bushings or balljoints?

 

['69 2800cs]

Yep, one bar at the front and one at the rear. This is the setup I try to copy, though mine doesn't attach to the car. This makes sure you always have the same distance apart front and rear. (Imagine those bars sitting on top of jackstands.) I've seen some very serious cars (Indy cars, LMP) aligned with these types of string setups.

I am not aware of any camber or caster adjustment on the front. The strut tops mounts are fixed, and there's no adjustment at the bottom. At the rear, there are weld on kits, but stock, no way to change toe or camber.

I have camber plates in my coupe, because I lowered it and put 7" wheels on the front. I got them from ground control and camber and caster are adjustable.

If your camber is way out, then yes, the bushings could be the problem. Either that or a bent strut, bent subframe, etc, etc.

 

[J.B.]

E3

I'm a "newbie" to this board. I sold my E9 several years ago when my garage space became limited due to a move from my farm to suburbia. I kept my E3 because it was more practical as a daily driver.
I've recently become somewhat disenchanted with its performance and am looking at options that will significantly boost its horsepower from its somewhat anemic 186 where it currently is. I've updated the fuel injection to that from a 1981 528i but would like to up the HP to the 275-300 level. I'm currently looking into a TCD turbo system with Megasquirt. I'd be interested in hearing what members of this group think of this option as well as listening to any other ideas that might be feasible for me

 

[G-Man]

Easiest way to better performance and driveability is do a M30B35 motronic conversion from a late model E32 or E34 donor. Do a search on the forum and you find lots of comments from E9 owners who have been there, done that.

G-Man

 

[Buffarea]

5/29/11 update

Well very little has happened to the Bavaria through the winter months, except that a fellow member from the 'Indy" area gave me a free hood and a local VW website member picked it up and bropught to me for free! I recieved it last week and immediatly got to work putting it on. I proceeded to buff and wax the alligator-skin paint and give it good general cleaning.
I also took the opportunity to pull off the rear valance around the liscence plate and with the aid of some zip-strip returned it to it's shiny beginnings.
All of my brake rotors were new last spring but now after having sat in the damp garage they pulse terribly, I am hopeful that a few highway miles will buzz that pesky rust off and smooth out.
Rear valance before:
http://

Rear valance after:
http://

Rust free hood:
http://

 

[HB Chris]

It's looking good!