73 POLARIS E3 BUILD...Slowly..

[Fritzie]

So close to paint!! A few small areas to reprime and sand with 600…then I decided to do the front subframe stiffening triangles. I can’t help adding more work..lol. I cut them, bent them and set in place. I just need to weld in some chases for fuel line, etc..and they’ll be ready to burn in!View attachment 220228View attachment 220227Tip

 

[Fritzie]

advice: make a hole in it for inspection and to paint the inside after the welding activities.
And don’t forget the holes for the fuel lines.

 

[StephenZ]

advice: make a hole in it for inspection and to paint the inside after the welding activities.
And don’t forget the holes for the fuel lines.

100%. I'm going to use a steel tube to weld in place for passing fuel line through..or anything else that may be needed. I'll also spray with weld through zinc primer before and use a chassis rail coating on the inside..
I figure I'll never have this opportunity again to add stiffening like this. I did the diff support upgrade, too..

 

[Fritzie]

I am still undecided whether to make something like this myself or leave the original. Would it really make much of a difference for the car I am restoring? I think the weakest part is the missing B pilar connected to the roof. Very frangible car. And after all, it won't be a car to race.

 

[StephenZ]

I am still undecided whether to make something like this myself or leave the original. Would it really make much of a difference for the car I am restoring? After all, it won't be a car to race.

I would say, if the plan isn’t to add much more hp and push it hard, then no, probably not important to do. I’ve just been dragging my feet for so long on my project, and now that I’m finally pushing again, I want to make sure I don’t regret not doing something when I had the opportunity..easy to do while it’s at this stage..

 

[StephenZ]

-slots in the frame rails welded closed
-zinc primed underneath
-welded in the angles
-welded in stainless tubes for lines to go through
-zinc primed again
-seam sealed everything for good measure
Frame rails and sills will get internal coatings, too.

I think that should be pretty solid. I have nothing to compare the rigidity to from before, but I hope it helps a bit..that and the diff support welded in place seem like good ‘while I’m in there’ mods..

I’m down to needing to sand the hood and trunk, then I’m ready for paint!

 

[rblongboarder]

Nice little stiffener plate you fabbed & welded onto the frame rails & firewall... looking forward to seeing photos of your painting process...

 

[StephenZ]

Thanks! I had been reading about those little triangles and figured why not…
I also am looking forward to my paint process…. I’ll be sure to document the whole thing here. It’ll be in my garage…

 

[StephenZ]

Question on brake booster delete. I've been reading up and to clear the triple dcoe carbs, I think I'm going to delete the booster and do a dual piston set up to be able to adjust front/rear bias. I curious if anyone else has done this and would have advice on what diameter pistons to go with on the masters? I think 73 originally came with a 15/16", correct? Would stepping down slightly to dual 7/8" be enough to get better pedal pressure without too soft of a pedal? I might need to change where the master connects on the pedal to get better leverage, too. Thoughts from people who have done this? Thanks!

 

[StephenZ]

From what I could gather from the interwebs, it looks like front master at 5/8" piston and rears at 3/4" should give me good pedal and close to good bias to be dialed in with the balance bar if needed.

 

[rblongboarder]

My vehicle is an auto and I plan on converting it to manual. I have an E3 manual pedal box that mounts to the steering column, but I've decided to go a different route.. I'm going to use a floor-mounted pedal box from a 3rd party manufacturer.

Tilton offers remote bias adjustment - you can literally change the front / rear brake bias on-the-fly. I've ridden shotgun in my friends V8 powered 914 and witnessed this at Willow Springs...

I haven't picked a specific unit yet, but here are some links to think about:

850-Series 3-pedal Underfoot Pedal Assembly

Tilton’s 850-Series 3-pedal Underfoot pedal assembly merges the performance of 900-Series pedal assembly technology and the renowned value of 600-Series pedal assemblies.

tiltonracing.com

Remote Bias Adjusters Archives

tiltonracing.com

 

[StephenZ]

My vehicle is an auto and I plan on converting it to manual. I have an E3 manual pedal box that mounts to the steering column, but I've decided to go a different route.. I'm going to use a floor-mounted pedal box from a 3rd party manufacturer.

Tilton offers remote bias adjustment - you can literally change the front / rear brake bias on-the-fly. I've ridden shotgun in my friends V8 powered 914 and witnessed this at Willow Springs...

I haven't picked a specific unit yet, but here are some links to think about:

850-Series 3-pedal Underfoot Pedal Assembly

Tilton’s 850-Series 3-pedal Underfoot pedal assembly merges the performance of 900-Series pedal assembly technology and the renowned value of 600-Series pedal assemblies.

tiltonracing.com

Remote Bias Adjusters Archives

tiltonracing.com

Nice, I did see the remote bias...love that. I'm ok with just testing and adjusting under the hood, but I like the idea of being able to mess with it, on the fly, for a race car!
Probably a solid call if you're switching from auto to use a set up geared for the manual brakes. I looked over my pedal and if I move the clevis up 1", it should give me 6:1 on the pedal for better force..as long as I can keep the rod pretty level. I'm pumped for losing the booster, though..I'd like to have a nice chunk of space for the side drafts. My battery will also be in the trunk, which will open up more room. I think GK has a universal kit that looks to be solid for my set up...good price, too.

 

[StephenZ]

Finally primed the trunk and everything is ready to paint! I need to finish a client's job first, so hoping by the end of the month I'll be able to lay down color! What was supposed to be a quick, driver quality, fix up, turned into a 10 year full rebuild...with raising a couple kids and moving cross country in between...Sheeesh! Very excited to be getting the paint done and be able to move on to the parts I actually enjoy doing..the mechanical!! lol
For those of us that do the paint ourselves, I installed a big fan in the wall of my garage, and got to use it today while I did the primer on the trunk, and it worked great! There was no mist in the air, and I took my respirator off after spraying and there was almost no smell either...so happy about that! I believe I'll build another jig to hold the trunk and hood for paint, and paint those, along with the doors together...then I'll tackle the body after I can move the doors/trunk/hood into the house to make room. Lucky to have a supportive wife...LOL.

 

[StephenZ]

My vehicle is an auto and I plan on converting it to manual. I have an E3 manual pedal box that mounts to the steering column, but I've decided to go a different route.. I'm going to use a floor-mounted pedal box from a 3rd party manufacturer.

Tilton offers remote bias adjustment - you can literally change the front / rear brake bias on-the-fly. I've ridden shotgun in my friends V8 powered 914 and witnessed this at Willow Springs...

I haven't picked a specific unit yet, but here are some links to think about:

850-Series 3-pedal Underfoot Pedal Assembly

Tilton’s 850-Series 3-pedal Underfoot pedal assembly merges the performance of 900-Series pedal assembly technology and the renowned value of 600-Series pedal assemblies.

tiltonracing.com

Remote Bias Adjusters Archives

tiltonracing.com

I was reading through your first build thread and saw that you have a huge stash of parts. Curious if you happen to have a clean center section for a rear bumper? The rest of mine is solid, but the center piece is rusted...I assume from fuel being spilled on it for years? I'll look into rechroming it, but that's gotten insanely expensive since I did it last..(16 years ago in cali..lol)