'76 3.0 Si - Introduction

[Luis A.]

Drew,

That's a good find for the drain hose. I have the original ones. Driver's side is in great shape, the other side is torn at the end, no doubt from the hellish heat levels generated by the air injection/reactor system. I found another replacement that might work. Check this out: http://www.atpartsmotor.com/index.php?lay=show&ac=cat_show_pro_detail&pid=157141

Regarding the firewall pieces, they are E9 pieces but fit the E3 almost perfectly. I posted all about it here: http://www.e9coupe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11377&highlight=firewall

 

[Stevehose]

Carl Nelson has the drain tubes if you want the closest to original

Also, what are you using for cowl vent drain tubes? I was wondering whether these would fit: http://broncograveyard.com/bronco/i-16007-vent-drain-tube-1966-77.html

Looks fantastic.

Drew

 

[HB Chris]

E3 is different, no metal snorkel to attach to.

 

[afeustel]

Luis,
For the Heater Box R&R, did you use the same Santech foam everywhere and just cut and stick?

Also, where did you source the Santech foam product from?

 

[Luis A.]

Regarding the heater box R&R, someone PM'd me, and posted here for posterity: "Can you tell me if the foam you used was the same everywhere (i.e., did you only buy one roll of it and cut to fit)? Also, where did you purchase the stuff."

I bought the foam at McMaster Carr. 1/8" thick, in sheets, "Water-Resistant Super-Cushioning Polyurethane Foam" PN 86225K51. The one around the heater core is the same type but 2" wide, 3/8" thick in rolls, PN8709K58. The one around the pipes, sealing against the firewall is the same product, 1" thick sheets PN 86225K57. Under the oval cover, on the engine side, sandwiched against the firewall, I will place some of the 2" x 3/8" foam. The adhesive backing is very tenacious and for best results, since I'm working in 50-some degree temperatures, I heated the adhesive and the surface and with some pressure applied, the stuff is permanently adhered. Of course surface prep is key.

Seeing now how strong the adhesive backing is, one could likely build up the required thickness in the back of the box with the same foam used around the heater box.

 

[Luis A.]

HA! Posting at the same time as you Drew. So now you can see the foam is not Santech. The Santech bag contains the black "tar" tape for wrapping the AC lines.

 

[afeustel]

Thanks for following up Luis.

 

[afeustel]

Luis:

In the following picture:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1jaNAEo1cNk/USEACqBA4xI/AAAAAAAAP2M/PNajTdqElRg/s720/P1070258.JPG

Did you use a new rubber donut for the evaporator drain, and if so, was that a dealer purchase? On realoem it does not look like all of the pieces for that drain are available.

Thanks
Drew

 

[Stevehose]

When I had my tranny and driveshaft out I glued a piece of hose up into the evaporator drain through the hole in the body in order to ensure it drained out the bottom and not into the cabin

Luis:

In the following picture:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-1jaNAEo1cNk/USEACqBA4xI/AAAAAAAAP2M/PNajTdqElRg/s720/P1070258.JPG

Did you use a new rubber donut for the evaporator drain, and if so, was that a dealer purchase? On realoem it does not look like all of the pieces for that drain are available.

Thanks
Drew

 

[Luis A.]

Drew,

That rubber donut/funnel was on the car and in perfect condition so there was no need to replace it. Is yours gone? It can't be that hard to improvise as Steve describes. Maybe a combination of a suitably sized rubber gasket and a rubber tube running through it.

 

[Luis A.]

The subframe/engine/transmission trio was docked onto the mothership this afternoon. It is a very tight fit side to side due to the steering box. It passes with about 1/4" to spare through a notch on the top of the frame rail.

Now it's downhill from here.

 

[Nicad]

You are doing a Magnificent Job Luis. Love the attention to detail. Was that a motorcycle jack you used or something for transmissions?
As for the surface finishes, what is on the exhaust manifolds? Are the aluminum components Alodine treated as you discussed previously?

 

[Stevehose]

+1!

You are doing a Magnificent Job Luis. Love the attention to detail. Was that a motorcycle jack you used or something for transmissions?
As for the surface finishes, what is on the exhaust manifolds? Are the aluminum components Alodine treated as you discussed previously?

 

[Luis A.]

Thanks guys. Bob, that is a Harbor Freight ATV jack. The only downside is that it's very jerky when lowering it. Unlike floor jacks where you can turn the handle very slowly and lower it mm's at a time, this one has a small foot pedal which even when operating it carefully with your hand, you still get a sudden, jerky drop.

The manifolds are high-temperature powder coated. I had the ones in the 1800 done by the same guy and they are still looking good. Of course, these will be covered by the black steel covers so they won't be visible... Yes, the aluminum pieces are passivated with Alodine.

 

[Luis A.]

Engine start-up

It runs!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VY_fybsU2Yo

 

[DerSchwede]

Trés bièn! Congratulations! Hope I can show something similar later this year when my polaris Si is ready...

 

[RonP]

I see the air flow meter, so can I assume you did a Motronic conversion?

 

[Luis A.]

Hi Ron, no motronic, it's the original engine with the original L Jetronic system. All the noise you hear is the induction noise since I have not yet fitted the air filter.

 

[RonP]

Jeez, my bad! I am so used to D-Jet with the log style manifold.

 

[BuzzBomb]

I appreciate your keeping the originality of things, but I really have no love or affection for that early style oil canister. I'd almost rather faux paint the canister from a B34 that same red and do the conversion, just to keep the "look" of original, so you can keep your sanity when it comes to oil changes.