A/C Install in a CSi

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Bwana

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OK, I've done the major Google search but it seems either the thread stops for some reason or there are no pictures of the work done. Apparently several people have done this conversion but we have little documentation to show for it (maybe it didn't work!)

Anyway, I'm planning on doing just this and will give a documented procedure to do it.

The first step is to gather up all the parts you think you'll need. I got the Sanden compressor and condenser coil from an outfit in San Diego (i'll post the link later).

Remove the window lift/shifter part of the center console by unscrewing the two wood screws under the rear window lift switches. The're hard to find but they are in there! Then the whole thing lifts out with some wiggling around.

Remove the wood storage plate.

I got the center console from a parts car. My car was originally delivered in Italy with no A/C. The doner car was a CS delivered in the States. Here's a comparison of the center consoles

PB180023.jpg


Notice the difference in contours. Also, there appears to be a difference in the edge of the console

With A/C

PB180024.jpg


With A/C

PB180026.jpg


The raised portion of the console sides are different. I can't find the part number for the difference, any help would be appreciated.

Next, I started on the evaporator coils I got. I eneded up with two, one for a go-by, one for actual installation.

After 38 years, maybe you should clean it off!

PB170005.jpg


Here's a shot of the expansion valve. I got the last one in the States from my local BMW dealer. The guy that's going to make the hoses for me suggested very strongly to replace the valve. Remember, it's 38 years young! It's a PITA to get to and the only way to test it (as far as I know) is to have it all installed and pressured up. If it doesn't work, start over from Line One above.

PB170007.jpg


I'm off to the upolsterer tomorrow to see what he can give me with both the A/C contour plus the raised edge of the non-A/C console.

More to come.....
 
I need to replace the original red hoses on my CS, but plan to stay with R12.
Are you going to get the new hoses made from the R134A barrier hose?
 
Yes, that's the plan. The A/C guy says that the main thing about R134 is to be sure the evaporator coil is large enough. I think mine is, it's certainly bigger than the OEM one.
 
Nice option, yes, but the functionality is peculiar. You end up getting a very cold right knee. Some cold air will lower the temp in the car, but the cold knee issue bothers me. I have AC on 2 cars. If I had the option between sunroof and AC on my next car, I would go with the former.
Yes the gear shifter console is different.

I live in Switzerland and Sweden which have cooler climates over the year, but on a hot summer day, all that glass sure heats up the coupe over here as well.
 
AC/Sunroof depends on climate perhaps?

A few months ago I was holding a complete set of an E9 aircond (dismantled and used) for sale in my hands.

After a few minutes of thinking, I was agree with my other more common sense personality. :)

All tubes and some other parts must be renewed to fit cold media of today. Together with a lot of work and cost to install AC in an earlier non AC equipped E9 I decided not to go further.

But the primary reason not to go further: Were I live (and it's certainly not desert climate) I always by default running my E9 with windows and sunroof open just for lovely smelling of the short summer :)

I will surely find out other projects with my E9 this winter season.

warm greetings
Stefan
 
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Indeed, I don't think Sweden is a "must have" for A/C. However, Houston definitely is.

I took the side panels down to the upolistry (sp?) shop to have them recovered. In the mean time, I cleaned up the evaporator coil and the squirrel cage and motor. I think the good washdown with contact cleaner will be OK for the motor brushes.

PB210034.jpg


I also remover the heater control box. It's held in by four bolts at the top. I dropped the glove box outer pins out to get to the right side but I didn't have to take the glove box all the way out.

PB200029.jpg


This allowed me to get the fresh air duct out so I could replace it with the A/C duct.

What the heck is the padding inside the original duct for? Sound deadening? Surely not thermal insulation. Is there supposed to be the same stuff inside the A/C duct?

PB190027.jpg


PB190028.jpg


And check this out! I took the seat out so I could both better access the A/C heater area and to grease up the runners and look what I spotted! It's right in front of the left hand seat track, under the carpet where it's not easily reached and certainly not seen


Toggle switch
PB210037.jpg


It almost looks OEM, any ideas? The single black wire runs under the carpet, I'll pull it up this week and see where it goes.

Stay tuned....
 
Toggle switch

My guess is a kill switch? I found one on my car from the PO. Quite handy.
 
Not as a panic button, but a security device - flip it on when you park somewhere. I put them in all my convertibles over the years because i never locked the doors.

Bwana said:
However, where it's located I'd hate to have to use it in a panic situation with the engine at +6000 RPM :-D:-D:-D
Click to expand...
 
Next Hurdle

OK, this system has the old style copper washers to seal between the pipes and hoses. Any body know where to get some? The BMW dealer and the local A/C shop (a good one) don't have any and don't know where to get some. I may have to have the ends re-soldered with modern o-ring fittings. Alternatively, I might be able to anneal them on the stove so they are soft and work again but I'm still a couple short

PB240006.jpg
 
A/C Seals

Jeff,

Napa shows seals. They may have changed to teflon to be compatible with the new refridgerants. I just checked pelican and they don't show the conversion parts any longer but they must still be out there.

I know Auto Air sells them online including mechanics sets.

Hope this helps...
 
Great Suggestions!

Thanks, looks like I might be OK. I'll check around after Turkey Day and see what I come up with
 
Back at it

Had some diversions (Turkey day and a looong motorcycle ride to CA) but back at it.

Yes, NAPA did carry the cone washers. About a buck apiece. OEM on top, NAPA below.

PC130138.jpg


So I rigged up a way to pressurize the evaporator to ~100 psi then dunked it into a bucket of water to check for leaks.

PC130136.jpg


PC130137.jpg


All's well! Now to start assembling the center console and try to figure out the wiring harness. I also got the console panels recovered (pictures to follow).
 
New bearings?

Has anybody ever rebuilt or replaced the bearings of the fan motor? I've lifted the carbon brushes and the shaft still "bumps" as I turn it.

Any suggestions?

PC150139.jpg


PC150140.jpg
 
Kill switch

That is one cool deal. Some use a push button in the headliner. Makes me wonder about some of the recent member "no run" scenarios. If you are unaware that you have one...trip by accident...wow... would that be crazy to figure out or what? I will remember this one for sure. Never ran into this but you never know.
 
DC Motor

There is some natural "bumping" of the armature segments against the brushes. I assume we're talking more than that.

If the bearings are stuck, a solvent first then oil.( Not DW) There used to be pen appllicators for this, I just haven't used them in years so I haven't gone looking for them either. ( sewing machines?)

On e12s for example, they left two holes for oiling through the squirrel cages and the have wicks to hold oil. But I haven't been fortunate enough to take mine apart yet. Heater yes. Looks surprisingly the same except for single end shaft.
 
Yep, I think it's the armature. After I posted last night, I started fooling around with the motor and it seems the "bump" corresponds exactly to the number of poles on it. I put some 3-in-1 oil on the bearings and they seem real smooth now.
 
Blower motors

Looking around at the what the Mercedes guys have done, it seems the end plates have a inside plate that sandwiches the bearings. There's some indication that Arizona parts Hauz has or at least had the the motors- $67 or so. Sealed bearings should run about $5-7 ea, locally. Some specialty Benz parts guys have them for about twice that. If you need the part numbers let me know.

They definately show the heater fan ( AZ)- complete with the cage/ squirrel fan.) But pricey at $400. ( '67, 250.) The Mercedes guys recommend using hot water on the squirrel cage to aid in cage removal! A hair dryer/ heat gun should do the same.

The brush retainers- actually slightly bent in the middle towards the spring and the the little indent for the spring sometimes gets deformed; a small punch should remedy that.
 
Next Step

OK, I've got the air box all assembled, now to just get it into position.

Does anybody know how to disconnect these clips? Looks like if I bend them, they won't spring back into shape. Alternatively, is there a way to get the air box in position without removing the front controls?

Clip

P1090003.jpg


Air box position

P1090005.jpg


Cables to remove to take off the control face

P1090002.jpg


Has anybody removed/installed this before?
 
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