Don't remove the clips- this is just an old fashioned PITA..
Take your time and wrestle it into position.
Take your time and wrestle it into position.
A/C Install in a CSi
- Thread starter Bwana
- Start date
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Phew, what a task!
FInally got the blower/evaporator assembly back in. I had to take out the air distributer and control panel, we'll see how hard that is to get back in
You can see the new felt padding I put in to seal the air gaps. I used the same stuff that is used around speaker installations. This was one of the hardest installations I've done, really tight.
I also got the side panels recovered. Not exactly factory but they look pretty good. Cost about $150 at a local shop
Next is to make a new back board and to try to get it to all fit back in the hole! You can see the back board on the old set up. I'll probably have to make the new backboard a lot shorter as the evaporator is in there now
Then on to the wiring.....
FInally got the blower/evaporator assembly back in. I had to take out the air distributer and control panel, we'll see how hard that is to get back in
You can see the new felt padding I put in to seal the air gaps. I used the same stuff that is used around speaker installations. This was one of the hardest installations I've done, really tight.
I also got the side panels recovered. Not exactly factory but they look pretty good. Cost about $150 at a local shop
Next is to make a new back board and to try to get it to all fit back in the hole! You can see the back board on the old set up. I'll probably have to make the new backboard a lot shorter as the evaporator is in there now
Then on to the wiring.....
Bwana
Well-Known Member
What is this tube?
It's copper and was stuck into the evaporator. I forgot to put it back when I installed the console. Am I doomed?
And where does this tube go? It's off the back of the "colder" knob on the front panel
It's copper and was stuck into the evaporator. I forgot to put it back when I installed the console. Am I doomed?
And where does this tube go? It's off the back of the "colder" knob on the front panel
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Brackets?
Found these in the pile of parts. Remember, I'm building this from a real mish mash of stuff I've aquired. They sure look right, seems I can bolt the side panels right to them
Found these in the pile of parts. Remember, I'm building this from a real mish mash of stuff I've aquired. They sure look right, seems I can bolt the side panels right to them
Yep. Those are one kind. Mine has tabs on the black bracket. But I know there are at least three different screw patterns on the side panels depending on the car.
I'd suggest you dry fit the sides and the brackets so you know where to drill the front.
Does your old set still have the front short bracket? It has a curve to fit the tunnel with two holes.
I still think you'll need to find some body clips ( speaker clips) for the fresh air plate holes.
Make sure the upholsterer left the small wood bock on the inside of the side panels. That's where the hidden under the window switch screws go to hold down the shifter plate.
I'd suggest you dry fit the sides and the brackets so you know where to drill the front.
Does your old set still have the front short bracket? It has a curve to fit the tunnel with two holes.
I still think you'll need to find some body clips ( speaker clips) for the fresh air plate holes.
Make sure the upholsterer left the small wood bock on the inside of the side panels. That's where the hidden under the window switch screws go to hold down the shifter plate.
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Right, I figured out how to mount the side panels. I'll use the forward A/C mount for the back of the side panels plus a couple of other spots near the top of the evaporator ducting. I ened up taking it all back out to mount some cool brackets (pics to follow).
While doing this, I discovered there is no drain hole in the tunnel, no surprise there, so it looks like I'll have to drill one. However, the tunnel looks to be a "double hull" design in that I can see a second piece of sheet metal below the bracket mounting screws. Is that true? I can drill thru both with no problem but I'd like to know what I'm getting into
While doing this, I discovered there is no drain hole in the tunnel, no surprise there, so it looks like I'll have to drill one. However, the tunnel looks to be a "double hull" design in that I can see a second piece of sheet metal below the bracket mounting screws. Is that true? I can drill thru both with no problem but I'd like to know what I'm getting into
And where does this tube go? It's off the back of the "colder" knob on the front panel
As you turn the "colder" knob shown in this photo on the far left of the image, what should happen to the current running through this switch ? I'm trying to see if my switch is bad by running 12v from a dry cell through it, but I cant detect the switch having any impact on the voltage through the switch.
Also, is the solid core wire (assuming thats a temp probe) coming off the switch supposed to route into the copper tube stuck into the evaporator ? (my switch had that solid core wire wrapped around the switch, and I dont seem to have a cooper tube apparent near the blower assembly....)
My wiring diagram doesnt show the AC circuit at all.
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....Yes the copper tube needs to go into the tube that is inserted into the evaporator core.
Rotation of the "Colder" knob changes the temp that the compressor turns on and off. It's a switch, not a potentiometer, like the fan control. When it is fully clockwise it should switch the compressor off at about 30-32 deg F
DaveG
Rotation of the "Colder" knob changes the temp that the compressor turns on and off. It's a switch, not a potentiometer, like the fan control. When it is fully clockwise it should switch the compressor off at about 30-32 deg F
DaveG
Thanks. I was able to confirm it's working by putting the sensor in ice water.
Next problem. I can't get the AC blower to come on. In the photo below, is the main power to the AC blower connected to the two small tabs in the bottom center of the blower ? I connected a dry cell to these leads and the blower did not come on. I can move the fan blades with my hand, I just cant seem to get them to power up.
Next problem. I can't get the AC blower to come on. In the photo below, is the main power to the AC blower connected to the two small tabs in the bottom center of the blower ? I connected a dry cell to these leads and the blower did not come on. I can move the fan blades with my hand, I just cant seem to get them to power up.
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Well,
the brown wire and the black w white stripe power the motor. If that's what you're wanting to confirm. Brown is ground.
Normally, there is a change over relay involved which prevents the heater blower from coming on or from both being on. So the power and ground go through several switches and relays depending upon a completed circuit.
But here's a daigram:
the brown wire and the black w white stripe power the motor. If that's what you're wanting to confirm. Brown is ground.
Normally, there is a change over relay involved which prevents the heater blower from coming on or from both being on. So the power and ground go through several switches and relays depending upon a completed circuit.
But here's a daigram:
Thanks guys.
I connected my battery (its sometimes called a 12v lantern battery) to the black/white and brown leads and the blower fired up. Nice.
I had been wondering what items circled in this new image are for:
I connected my battery (its sometimes called a 12v lantern battery) to the black/white and brown leads and the blower fired up. Nice.
I had been wondering what items circled in this new image are for:
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Thanks again. But what are they powering ? I cant see to find this in the repair manual.
Edit for posterity: That apparently is a resistor for the AC blower potentiometer.
Edit for posterity: That apparently is a resistor for the AC blower potentiometer.
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Fan resistor
Number 8.
But here's the section in the repair manual- http://www.e9-driven.com/Public/Library/BMW-E9-Manual/pages/en/64500200.html#refertoc
Number 8.
But here's the section in the repair manual- http://www.e9-driven.com/Public/Library/BMW-E9-Manual/pages/en/64500200.html#refertoc
Fantastic. I cant thank you enough.
Working backwards, so far Ive confirmed that the blower and thermostat switch are working, but it looks like the main switch isn't getting power. Fuses are fine. The hunt continues...
Working backwards, so far Ive confirmed that the blower and thermostat switch are working, but it looks like the main switch isn't getting power. Fuses are fine. The hunt continues...
Here's a shot of the expansion valve. I got the last one in the States from my local BMW dealer. The guy that's going to make the hoses for me suggested very strongly to replace the valve. Remember, it's 38 years young! It's a PITA to get to and the only way to test it (as far as I know) is to have it all installed and pressured up. If it doesn't work, start over from Line One above.
This Nostalgic AirParts expansion valve looks very similar to the OEM valve. Has anybody tried to modify their AC with this model?
http://www.nostalgicairparts.com/ai...sion-valve-with-female-equalizer-tube-417.php
Henrik
Bwana
Well-Known Member
Sure looks like the one! About half the price of an OEM valve, I think I paid about $60 for mine