A few 5 Speed install questions

Stevehose

Stevehose

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Guibo

Any opinions on the Rev Shift replacement guibo or will the M5 suffice? They claim indestructable but wonder if the urathane would transmit more vibration? About the same price if I buy a German Lemforder oem. According to their instructions the aligment of driveline needs to be perfect so maybe oem is way to go...

http://www.revshift.com/product-p/pfx-9612.htm


pfxinstalled.jpg
 
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Stevehose

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Could the bottom half of one of these shifters with a lower eye than the stock one be fitted into the stock upper half with the threads?

shift_comp.gif




Sven said:
Steve,

UUC makes the shifter kit USSE5-E.

You will also want the DSSR 147 mm double selector rod and ask for the shortest selector rod joint. This is the piece that connects the 147 mm rod to the shaft coming out of the transmission. See photo. This will ensure the shifter is in the correct fore/aft position and keep reverse from hitting the console.

The platform is mounted slightly differently to the transmission. The 4 spd has only the four isolation fittings. The 5 spd has only two isolation fittings and then a rear support to the underbody via either a bushing with a threaded rod out each end or a more elaborate built-up install (like in the photo).

Note - the UUC shifter does not come with a threaded shifter to receive the old style knobs. Maybe someone could thread it for you?

I made a home made short shifter by extending the eye on the bottom of the stock shifter by 5/8". Not quite as smooth as the UUC one.
Click to expand...
 
Ohmess

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I went with German Lemforder OEM. Was concerned about additional vibration with the polyurethane, and my tolerance for bouncing around in the car seems to have diminished somewhat over the years.

Stevehose said:
Any opinions on the Rev Shift replacement guibo or will the M5 suffice? They claim indestructable but wonder if the urathane would transmit more vibration? About the same price if I buy a German Lemforder oem. According to their instructions the aligment of driveline needs to be perfect so maybe oem is way to go...

http://www.revshift.com/product-p/pfx-9612.htm


pfxinstalled.jpg
Click to expand...
 
A

aeronotix

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5 speed conversion in progress

Hi,

Question for you guys that did a conversion from 4-speed to 5.
I have installed a 265CR transmission.
The gearbox transmission Xmember hit exactly where the thru holes are for the squared headed bolts that secure the Xmember to the body.
I had to ****ed the Xmember in such way that it avoid those holes.
Have you guys noticed the same thing?
I'm wondering if the powertrain is too much forward for some reason..
 

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Stevehose

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Nevermind, a simple search shows that it should work, albeit a little tight. I will give it ago before replacing (not looking forward to reroutnig that through the dash).


Will my 4 speed speedo cable fit with the 5 speed or will I have to get a longer one, if so, which one or will an auto trans cable fit?
 
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adawil2002

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2002s running a 245 Getrag need an auto speedo cable, other wise the cable gets strained and fails prematurely.
 
Stevehose

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So for the rear center mounting point on the shift tower (not the 2 bushings in front), how is the rubber isolator bracket mounted to the tunnel of the car so the tower can then be bolted onto that?


Sven said:
Steve,

UUC makes the shifter kit USSE5-E.

You will also want the DSSR 147 mm double selector rod and ask for the shortest selector rod joint. This is the piece that connects the 147 mm rod to the shaft coming out of the transmission. See photo. This will ensure the shifter is in the correct fore/aft position and keep reverse from hitting the console.

The platform is mounted slightly differently to the transmission. The 4 spd has only the four isolation fittings. The 5 spd has only two isolation fittings and then a rear support to the underbody via either a bushing with a threaded rod out each end or a more elaborate built-up install (like in the photo).

Note - the UUC shifter does not come with a threaded shifter to receive the old style knobs. Maybe someone could thread it for you?

I made a home made short shifter by extending the eye on the bottom of the stock shifter by 5/8". Not quite as smooth as the UUC one.
Click to expand...
 
Sven

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Steve,

The AFM mount is one of those rubber bushings with a thread rod (6 or 8 mm) sticking out each end. One end is inserted through the hole in the body tunnel (just behind the main opening for the shifter), and the other through one of the holes at the tail end of the shifter bracket (depends which one lines up with the tunnel hole).

Alternatively, more complex, is this option. Again the two angle pieces bolt through the same hole in the tunnel. I had to trim off the tail end of the shifter bracket as it only worked with the forward of the two holes.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=4701-EUR-04-1981-E12-BMW-535i&diagId=25_0147
 
Stevehose

Stevehose

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Bell housing studs and bolts

I have a bell housing on the way for my conversion, I'd like to replace the studs and get new tranny mounting bolts, I can't find the diagrams for these, Realoem keeps telling me "not for my car" when I have 1981 E12 USA 5 speed manual etc. searching.

Anyone know the sizes and numbers of each or links to the correct diagram(s)?
 
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Honolulu

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I've had two AFM bushings go south on me. The latest failed while my wife was driving. She drove home in 2nd and told me ALL about it.

My car isn't driven much, apparently they disintegrate from exhaust heat and constant load/vibration. When they fail, the shifter drops a couple inches at the back. Depending on the health of the bushings mounting the front of the shifter platform to the trans, you might/not rub the dshaft, though mine didn't. You can still shift and drive but need to be a little hamfisted and lift the shifter upwards so it doesn't bind. It'll make you want to fix it soon.

There are a variety of bushings. Not all have the same diameter or length, not all fit nicely. I don't know the variety well enough to recommend against any; I used what I had on hand. The AFM mount P/N comes up on the fiche for a variety of uses, and there are others very similar on other models, other uses.
 
Ohmess

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I believe I got a slightly larger Bellmetric bushing. Not sure on longevity, however.

Honolulu said:
I've had two AFM bushings go south on me. The latest failed while my wife was driving. She drove home in 2nd and told me ALL about it.

My car isn't driven much, apparently they disintegrate from exhaust heat and constant load/vibration. When they fail, the shifter drops a couple inches at the back. Depending on the health of the bushings mounting the front of the shifter platform to the trans, you might/not rub the dshaft, though mine didn't. You can still shift and drive but need to be a little hamfisted and lift the shifter upwards so it doesn't bind. It'll make you want to fix it soon.

There are a variety of bushings. Not all have the same diameter or length, not all fit nicely. I don't know the variety well enough to recommend against any; I used what I had on hand. The AFM mount P/N comes up on the fiche for a variety of uses, and there are others very similar on other models, other uses.
Click to expand...
 
Ohmess

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Stevehose said:
I have a bell housing on the way for my conversion, I'd like to replace the studs and get new tranny mounting bolts, I can't find the diagrams for these, Realoem keeps telling me "not for my car" when I have 1981 E12 USA 5 speed manual etc. searching.

Anyone know the sizes and numbers of each or links to the correct diagram(s)?
Click to expand...

Bolts to hold the bell housing/Getrag to the engine:

- (2) M10x1.5x95
- (2) M10x1.5x35
- (1) M8x1.25x90
- (2) M8x1.25x35
- (1) M8x1.25x40


I also ordered (2) M6x1.0x16 bolts for the cover plate that goes at the bottom of the clutch housing, and a reverse light switch with the 12mm crush washer if you haven't already changed that.
 
Stevehose

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Speedo drive

I bought the inner seal for the speedo drive but can't figure out how to separate the top metal "bush" from the bottom housing, apparently this seal (on the left) fits in there. Is it pressed in tight? I am afraid tools will hack it up. Any ideas?

IMG_2384.JPG
 
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