BMW E9 Rims size advice...

[Parrell]

Hello,

I have a big doubt regarding my first purchase....wheels for my 1975 3.0 csi!

I have already read a lot of messages but I need your help please!

I would like to buy a set of bbs rims a saw that the perfect size for the e9 are 7jx16 et11 front and 8jx16 et24 for rear, but these are really expensive and rare, so I'm considering to buy dare rs replica but the only size available are:

Front 8jx16 ET15/25 rear 9jx16 ET15/25 (I can use 8j even for rear)

or

Front 7,5jx17 et35 Rear 8,5jx17 ET20

you think that i can use this size of rims without modifications? I have standard shocks and springs...
better the 16" or 17"?

thank you in advice for your help!!!

P.s. sorry for my English

 

[Markos]

I think your options pose a number of issues front and rear. I will respond later tonight.

 

[Parrell]

I think your options pose a number of issues front and rear. I will respond later tonight.

Thank you!!! I'll wait your reply...

 

[Strato102]

Why are owners of Ferrari 365 GTB Daytonas perfectly content to keep the original wheel size ? Why are owners of Porsche 2.7 Carreras perfectly content to keep the original wheel size? Why do 1967 Pontiac GTOs look perfect with period size Torque Thrusts? To each their own but I can't understand this propensity to hack these e9s.

 

[Markos]

Why are owners of Ferrari 365 GTB Daytonas perfectly content to keep the original wheel size ? Why are owners of Porsche 2.7 Carreras perfectly content to keep the original wheel size? Why do 1967 Pontiac GTOs look perfect with period size Torque Thrusts? To each their own but I can't understand this propensity to hack these e9s.

1. Tire size availability
2. Performance (tire and vehicle)
3. Reversible personalization
4. All of the cars you mention are regular recipients of wheel changes. To a greater degree in my opinion. Don’t make me post pics of widebody Porsches and tubbed GTO’s. Something something “pro street GTO” something something “Raugh Welt 2.7”...

 

[Parrell]

i don't want hack my e9, it is all original, no mods, I would like to buy a bbs wheel just for better look, and I like more the 16 inch wheels, this is the reason why of my question, I don't wanna change springs or shocks, I prefer to keep it original as it is!

I don't think that the add of 4 bbs wheels gives to our e9 a worse looking, but a better looking, keeping the original appeal

 

[JFENG]

In my opinion those vintage Ferrari drivers don’t have the same hot-rod mentality of a typical E9 owners. Perhaps it is t true. It it is my impression that Ferrari folks are less hands on and they consider the OEM and the OEM decisions to be closer to religion. BMW people are more hands on tinkerers who believe they can find a better (more personalized) set of design trade offs.

 

[Parrell]

so anybody can give me some advice?

 

[Markos]

Okay this is all based on the theory of e9 wheel relativity. I am doing this in my head with an 8x17 ET20 wheel and an 7x14 ET11 wheel as a baseline.

There are no great options here and you shouldn’t work this hard for BBS reps. There are good factory wheel options that fit from all genres. The 17” BBS RC090 is a great alternative to RS wheels. You can’t throw a rock on the US without hitting a sub-$600 used set. There are 16” factory BBS RZ options. You have Alpina reps, Weds, BBS Mahle, Eplsilon Mesh, etc. This doesn’t include many of the european brands.


8x16 ET15 - Perfect size the front fenders while also rubbing the strut tubes. Either that or everything just barely fits perfectly. Should work fine in the rear

8x16 ET25 - Will rub the struts up front. Will work great in the rear

9x16 ET15 - Will rub everything up front. Will rub the fender in back.

9x16 ET25 - No chance up front. Will likely fit in the back. Likely need to roll fender.

7.5x17 ET35 - May work up front with a 10mm spacer. Would work in the rear

8.5x17 ET20 - Would rub your strut up front and your fender. Would fit in the rear.

 

[adawil2002]

Front 16 x 7 ET 11 Roll front fender inner lip between 2 & 10 O'Clock. I run a set of 16 x 17 ET 11 front and rear, benefit of a square set up is being able to rotate the tires.

Rear 16 x 8 up to ET 25

Can have a set made
Contact Paul Ehrlich at http://ewheelworks.us

 

[Parrell]

Okay this is all based on the theory of e9 wheel relativity. I am doing this in my head with an 8x17 ET20 wheel and an 7x14 ET11 wheel as a baseline.

There are no great options here and you shouldn’t work this hard for BBS reps. There are good factory wheel options that fit from all genres. The 17” BBS RC090 is a great alternative to RS wheels. You can’t throw a rock on the US without hitting a sub-$600 used set. There are 16” factory BBS RZ options. You have Alpina reps, Weds, BBS Mahle, Eplsilon Mesh, etc. This doesn’t include many of the european brands.


8x16 ET15 - Perfect size the front fenders while also rubbing the strut tubes. Either that or everything just barely fits perfectly. Should work fine in the rear

8x16 ET25 - Will rub the struts up front. Will work great in the rear

9x16 ET15 - Will rub everything up front. Will rub the fender in back.

9x16 ET25 - No chance up front. Will likely fit in the back. Likely need to roll fender.

7.5x17 ET35 - May work up front with a 10mm spacer. Would work in the rear

8.5x17 ET20 - Would rub your strut up front and your fender. Would fit in the rear.

Thanks a lot for your kindly reply!!!

So you think that the 7,5jx17 at35 with 10mm spacer and 8.5jx17 et20 it the best option without modifications?
or you think is better the 8jx16 et15 front and 8jx16 et25 rear?

 

[Parrell]

Front 16 x 7 ET 11 Roll front fender inner lip between 2 & 10 O'Clock. I run a set of 16 x 17 ET 11 front and rear, benefit of a square set up is being able to rotate the tires.

Rear 16 x 8 up to ET 25

Can have a set made
Contact Paul Ehrlich at http://ewheelworks.us

View attachment 60164 View attachment 60165

Thanks for your reply, than if 7jx16 et11 roll the fender the 8jx16 et15 do the same...or 7,5jx17 et35...no chance, right?

 

[Strato102]

1. Tire size availability
2. Performance (tire and vehicle)
3. Reversible personalization
4. All of the cars you mention are regular recipients of wheel changes. To a greater degree in my opinion. Don’t make me post pics of widebody Porsches and tubbed GTO’s. Something something “pro street GTO” something something “Raugh Welt 2.7”...

Don't mean to ruffle feathers but the car types you mentioned are hot rods. I wish there were more CSL Group 4/5 tributes out there and would not expect a builder of such a car to throw on some 14 inch wheels and I would love to some up sized e50s for my car with period date codes and recent analysis of the magnesium; I am not hard headed and against some truly cool stuff. It just seems that every above average original or restored e9 owner (in the States) treats 14 inch wheels like kryptonite.

 

[Markos]

Thanks for your reply, than if 7jx16 et11 roll the fender the 8jx16 et15 do the same...or 7,5jx17 et35...no chance, right?

I’m not of the opinion that you need to roll the fender on a 7” ET11 wheel. The factory CSL wheel is 7” ET11.

@adawil2002, I know you will argue this one to the grave. Keep in mind however that you mentioned that your front suspension geometry was significantly off, and your camber was an entire degree off (that is a lot!) causing outer tire wear. That means that you had positive camber pushing the top of your wheel out to your fender by about .5”. That is certainly enough to require fender rolling. Under normal circumstances, you don’t need to roll your fenders with 7” ET11 wheels, even with a more squared off 16” tire.

 

[Markos]

Don't mean to ruffle feathers but the car types you mentioned are hot rods. I wish there were more CSL Group 4/5 tributes out there and would not expect a builder of such a car to throw on some 14 inch wheels and I would love to some up sized e50s for my car with period date codes and recent analysis of the magnesium; I am not hard headed and against some truly cool stuff. It just seems that every above average original or restored e9 owner (in the States) treats 14 inch wheels like kryptonite.

No feathers ruffled. I agree with your sentiment just not the comparative data. Watch the video of Monterrey two years back and you will see nearly 100 cars with aftermarket wheels. I think that the 14” wheel is going to have a major comeback. We will all kick ourselves for selling our slotted alloys for pennies on the dollar.

 

[adawil2002]

I’m not of the opinion that you need to roll the fender on a 7” ET11 wheel. The factory CSL wheel is 7” ET11.

@adawil2002, I know you will argue this one to the grave. Keep in mind however that you mentioned that your front suspension geometry was significantly off, and your camber was an entire degree off (that is a lot!) causing outer tire wear. That means that you had positive camber pushing the top of your wheel out to your fender by about .5”. That is certainly enough to require fender rolling. Under normal circumstances, you don’t need to roll your fenders with 7” ET11 wheels, even with a more squared off 16” tire.

Correct I had outer tire wear over 9780 miles. Fenders had been rolled so I didn't have any clearance problems that year with shredding the the front side walls.

With the factory alloy wheels that are 14 x 7 with 195/70 14s fenders do not need to be rolled.

A plus 2 fitment 16x 7 ET 11 with 205/55 16s with front sport springs the front fenders need to be rolled or one gets gouges in the front side walls and spaghetti strings of rubber slapping the car. Side wall cutting happened to Mako Saito (kwyjibo) with 16x 7 ET 11 with 205/5516s as well.

If one is running lowering springs, which many Coupes do, I highly recommend rolling the fronts in addition to adjustable negative camber plates. Simple insurance to guarantee clearance on 16s with 205s.


OEM tire Size: 195/70/14 – dia. 24.7”, 77.7” circ, rev / mile = 815

Substitutes: 205/60/15 – dia. 24.7”, 77.6” circ, rev / mile = 817

Substitutes: 225/55/15 – dia. 24.7”, 77.7” circ, rev / mile = 815

Substitutes: 205/55/16 – dia. 24.9”, 78.2” circ, rev / mile = 811

Substitutes: 225/50/16 – dia. 24.9” 78.1” circ, rev / mile = 811

Substitutes: 245/40/17 – dia. 24.7”, 77.6” circ, rev / mile = 816

 

[Markos]

I need to give up this fight. There are enough people
with rubbing on 205’s to warrant the insurance policy. I will undoubtedly roll my fenders in the end.

 

[Mal CSL 3.0]

Just my opinion but I would avoid 17" as the diameter looks a bit extreme for an e9.

I think 16" are the best diameter for a more sporty look. Here are my 16" (yes I know they aren't BBS). 7" and 8" staggered. ET11 and ET24

I run 205/55/16" on front. I find there can be very slight rubbing if the car is driven too aggressively or if too fast over speed humps. (I am a careful driver so not an issue for me). Also I haven't rolled my guards yet, as bit of a hassle to do this when you have silver arches. Rears are 225/50/16 - perfect fit never rub.



Also totally agree with some of the comments about 14" wheels. They should not be as unloved as they are. They can look great with slightly oversized tyres and certainly look period correct. In fact I am considering to go back to my original CSL rims or I also just bought some genuine 14" Mahles in gold which I also am keen to put on for a while once I refurb them.

 

[Parrell]

Just my opinion but I would avoid 17" as the diameter looks a bit extreme for an e9.

I think 16" are the best diameter for a more sporty look. Here are my 16" (yes I know they aren't BBS). 7" and 8" staggered. ET11 and ET24

I run 205/55/16" on front. I find there can be very slight rubbing if the car is driven too aggressively or if too fast over speed humps. (I am a careful driver so not an issue for me). Also I haven't rolled my guards yet, as bit of a hassle to do this when you have silver arches. Rears are 225/50/16 - perfect fit never rub.

View attachment 60153

Also totally agree with some of the comments about 14" wheels. They should not be as unloved as they are. They can look great with slightly oversized tyres and certainly look period correct. In fact I am considering to go back to my original CSL rims or I also just bought some genuine 14" Mahles in gold which I also am keen to put on for a while once I refurb them.

View attachment 60171

Thanks for you reply, I agree, I prefer the 16" too, the 17" are too much, I mentioned this kind of rims only because they have 7,5j width and not 8j, I'm talking about the replica, because if I have the possibility to buy the original bbs rs005/006 7j et11 and 8j et24 I think that I can avoid to rolling the fenders, i hope

 

[Stan]

Don't mean to ruffle feathers but the car types you mentioned are hot rods. I wish there were more CSL Group 4/5 tributes out there and would not expect a builder of such a car to throw on some 14 inch wheels and I would love to some up sized e50s for my car with period date codes and recent analysis of the magnesium; I am not hard headed and against some truly cool stuff. It just seems that every above average original or restored e9 owner (in the States) treats 14 inch wheels like kryptonite.

Not all
225 x 60 x 14. Alpina wheels