Coupe E9 Wheels & tires. What fits?

Don't forget the heat gun, must be warm to touch or paint may crack. I heated for 5-10 minutes. Bend only a little at a time and reapply heat during process. A little less than 10:00 to 2:00 on the fender should do it.
 
I was thinking about warming the whole fender with an electric blanket. Do you have any idea what the temperature of the paint should be?
 
the eastwood video showed heating the fender to about 150 degrees to warm the paint.

eastwood has the basic roller on sale for $130, the heat gun is another $90.
somebody has it for $120 on ebay (new). better than that, there is somebody in roswell, ga who rents it with the heatgun for $40 - free shipping. another guy in illinois - same price. since roswell is only 15 minutes away ... i know what i'm gonna do.

there are also chinese imitations on ebay for 50 to 80 bucks.
 
I purchased the tool, used it twice and sold it. I wish I kept it maybe could have started a tool-sharing system on the forum. I sold mine to a body shop so you might be able to borrow one and maybe even get some expert help- just thinkin'
 
There is a shop down the street that sells 30" wheels and specializes in flash. They may have some experience and possibly one of these lying around collecting dust since the low rider craze is over
 
If you want the fender at 150f, I'd be very careful with a heat gun. A blow dryer will easily get it to 150f.
 
I run 16x9 with 225/50 16 on my e3, it just took careful planning to get them to fit. Final specs for my wheels were et7 rear et2 front. It does not rub in the front yet, but it may if I lower the car more. I had to trim the rear fender lips off for the rears to not rub.

Also not sure if he e3 and e9 fit the identical wheels, but should be very close.
 
bigger wheels

Hi guys, I am new at the forum and am doing a full restoration on an CS 2800. bare metal paint and all mechanicals. i have the specs for all work done except for the wheels. I want to order new three piece mahle type wheels so i basically i can get whatever size and ET i want. up to now i think i will go the 16x7.5 front and 16x8 in the back with 215 tyre front and 235 in the back. my question is what ETs shall i specify preferably not to have rubbing etc?
 
Hi guys, I am new at the forum and am doing a full restoration on an CS 2800. bare metal paint and all mechanicals. i have the specs for all work done except for the wheels. I want to order new three piece mahle type wheels so i basically i can get whatever size and ET i want. up to now i think i will go the 16x7.5 front and 16x8 in the back with 215 tyre front and 235 in the back. my question is what ETs shall i specify preferably not to have rubbing etc?
 
On 16x7 ET-11 and on 16x8 ET-24 Being your front is going to be 7.5 wide use the ET-11 as a reference point.
 
if you add another 1/2" of wheel width, call it 12.7mm ... divide by 2 and you get 6.35mm ... add to 11 and you get an offset of ET-17 / ET-18 ... no idea if you can find a wheel that size.
 
rsporsche said:
if you add another 1/2" of wheel width, call it 12.7mm ... divide by 2 and you get 6.35mm ... add to 11 and you get an offset of ET-17 / ET-18 ... no idea if you can find a wheel that size.
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I may be wrong but wouldn't you want to deduct the 6.35mm rather than add? By adding it a higher offset with the additional wheel width will bring it that much closer to the struts and possibly rub.
 
verde2002 said:
I may be wrong but wouldn't you want to deduct the 6.35mm rather than add? By adding it a higher offset with the additional wheel width will bring it that much closer to the struts and possibly rub.
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let me rethink this - i had a conflicting response.

As was discussed in another thread - if you take a 7" ET-11 wheel, and you make it an 8" wheel (leaving the mounting point in relation to the exposed side the same), then you are creating an ET-24 wheel. a larger offset moves the center of the wheel toward the strut. a smaller number moves the mount closer to the center of the wheel - therefore moving it away from the strut.
 
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rsporsche said:
if you leave it at ET-11 (11mm positive offset from center) ... and make the wheel wider, then the wheel would move closer to the strut. if you increase the positive offset then you move the wheel away from the strut.
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Positive offset moves the wheel towards the strut and negative offset moves the wheel out towards the fender. This I am certain of.
 
verde2002 said:
Positive offset moves the wheel towards the strut and negative offset moves the wheel out towards the fender. This I am certain of.
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yes, as i reread my response that you quoted it showed that i had a conflict in my statement - reread what how i edited my previous response - the first part was correct, the 2nd part was wrong
 
Many thanks for your help. my car original wheels are 7jx14 which I am not sure but have read has an ET of 11. so for front having adding half an inch or 12 mm i shall order wheels as 7.5jx16 with ETR 6.

for back i shall opt for 8jx16 with ET of 0. am i right?
 
saman said:
Many thanks for your help. my car original wheels are 7jx14 which I am not sure but have read has an ET of 11. so for front having adding half an inch or 12 mm i shall order wheels as 7.5jx16 with ETR 6.

for back i shall opt for 8jx16 with ET of 0. am i right?
Click to expand...

Be sure to have your inner fender lips rolled. ET11 with unrolled fenders will gouge the tire sidewall on the outer edge of the tread.
 
saman said:
Many thanks for your help. my car original wheels are 7jx14 which I am not sure but have read has an ET of 11. so for front having adding half an inch or 12 mm i shall order wheels as 7.5jx16 with ETR 6.

for back i shall opt for 8jx16 with ET of 0. am i right?
Click to expand...
nope ... 8" is ET-24 ... 7.5 is ET 18. if you do what you are proposing the wheel will be sticking outside of the fender well
 
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