Stupid me - I have a borescope i should have used. Will take some more pics tonight when I get home
Does rod knock get louder with higher revs?
- Thread starter Skiver
- Start date
Mike Goble
Well-Known Member
Does rod knock get louder with higher revs?
Until it stops suddenly...
Well Mike, I’ve been running the engine often to figure out the cause of this noise so…..! lol!
stphers
Well-Known Member
Is the piece of rail that fits into the tensioner piston hitting or touching the aluminum wall of the timing cover? There should be at least 1-2mm there Is the chain stretched and what you are hearing is the tensioner rail hitting that wall? Had that happen on a 2002, same difference had other issues but ended up putting in a new chain and a much better cam gear
Thanks, Rick
Thanks, Rick
I don’t know what to say- do you have a cell phone you can use? I’m simply using an iPhone 11- nothing special. Your pictures are completely out of focus?
Is this an m30 engine? Can you take an in focus pic from a foot away or maybe 2 feet away? Your chain is a complete blur. please don’t take boroscope or close up pics- it’s defeating the purpose. Take an exact copy of the picture I posted from the same distance with a clean lens. Copy the 1st picture I posted exactly. Use a cell phone.
thanks!,!!
Is this an m30 engine? Can you take an in focus pic from a foot away or maybe 2 feet away? Your chain is a complete blur. please don’t take boroscope or close up pics- it’s defeating the purpose. Take an exact copy of the picture I posted from the same distance with a clean lens. Copy the 1st picture I posted exactly. Use a cell phone.
thanks!,!!
It appears to me that the tensioner may be touching the wall on the lower timing cover? Can you check this by using a large screwdriver in the spot I have marked?
The tensioner and tensioner piston should be very stiff and barely move.
The tensioner and tensioner piston should be very stiff and barely move.
Hello Everyone
I have taken an m30 apart and found the pin & circlip that holds the chain rail loose.
I have taken an m30 apart and found the pin & circlip that holds the chain rail loose.
Mine isn’t very stiff at all. But the small arm that slots into the tensioner piston does not touch the wall however hard I try to move away from the piston. from the video the “long side” of the tensioner does hit against the wall when you pull it towards the piston far enough.
I am a bit confused how mine isn’t very stiff - given it’s a brand new OEM spring from BMW. Used the part number from RealOEM. I guess I need to find a stiffer spring?
Thanks @BarryG. Is that the tension rail was loose or the rail guide on the other side of the engine?
It needs to be bled properly with oil per the manual in order for the hydraulic pressure to build and tension properly
stphers
Well-Known Member
You know, I bought 3 new tensioner pistons awhile ago. I could not get any of them to pump up hard Ended up going back to a good used one that I had, pumped up just fine On these new ones there is a ball with a spring in the center small hole in the groove of the tensioner, I am assuming that oil is forced in past the ball and spring and holds pressure in but I could not get enough oil in behind that ball to ever get the tensioner hard ( now, everyone quit laughing and get your mind out of the gutter )
The old tensioner did not have that spring or ball Is this something new?
If you can't get the tensioner to tighten up, that rail will be banging back and forth as the engine is running and more so on start up and low rpm rather than higher rpm where chain speed is fast enough to compensate for the loose tensioner
Thanks, Rick
The old tensioner did not have that spring or ball Is this something new?
If you can't get the tensioner to tighten up, that rail will be banging back and forth as the engine is running and more so on start up and low rpm rather than higher rpm where chain speed is fast enough to compensate for the loose tensioner
Thanks, Rick