Finishing School for a Fjord 3.0 CS / 100 projects to improve a Coupe / Countdown
- Thread starter paul cain
- Start date
Worse than using one of the shite new hangars is using two of the shite new hangars. I reinforced mine with a small plate, bolt, and lock nut.
Double Shite for the win!
Project 20 rebuilt the brakes.
Front suspension is about 95% complete. What is still on the punch list is torquing fasteners, bleeding brakes and refitting the correct strut bolts for the safety wire. These are the new W&N front calipers. As I understand these are made in China. So far so good in terms of fit. Wheel bearings and front seals were replaced along with the soft OEM style brake rubber lines.
Front suspension is about 95% complete. What is still on the punch list is torquing fasteners, bleeding brakes and refitting the correct strut bolts for the safety wire. These are the new W&N front calipers. As I understand these are made in China. So far so good in terms of fit. Wheel bearings and front seals were replaced along with the soft OEM style brake rubber lines.
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Chassis Tour rear suspension, about 98% complete
Chassis Tour Front suspension, about 96% complete
I love that your approach to body restoration goes all the way to recreating the evidence of hurried assembly line workers. I wonder of there's a word in German that roughly means "strive for perfection and then go back and throw in some flaws for the sake of authenticity"?
Thanks again for taking us on another wonderful journey.
Paul--What model brake pads are installed in the W&N front calipers? I have them on my car and the EBC pads that were in my old calipers with 12K miles on them just barely fit in the W&N calipers w/o the anti squeal plates.
Paul- your video starts out showing the 5-speed transmission bracket. Is that the Coupe King design?
Drew,As I recall they are ATE brand. If they don't fit I don't hesitate grinding off the offending edges until they do.
Yes, it is.
Uhhh, maybe? I had a long chat with myself during the installation.......W.T.F.! What a twisted soul would come up with this assembly sequence? You really need 4 hands while you are sliding it into place. I am surprised I haven't received more hate mail. A major rewrite of the installation instructions is on order.
Project 25: Fabricate a new guide tube for the hood latch cable. Somehow the guide tube for hood latch cable went missing. Very strange. Here is the replacement guide tube that we are going to weld in. This will be before we reinstall the hex pad material on the top of the inner fenders.
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I recall DQ has an improved version of your invention, but I forget the details.
Glad to hear an authority is looking at the E-brake cable:
"Next up is anchoring the E- brake cable with a custom bracket, otherwise it is too contorted"
My E3 had, and my E28 has, a really good E-brake. When the E9 is identical to the E3, and similar to the E28, why is the E-brake so inferior? Done the bolt and thrust washers conversion for the pivot, and had close-fitting washers welded to the mount to take out the wear in the too-thin metal.
Had the E9 on the hoist a couple of weeks ago and freed up the contorted brake cable, moving both crossmember hanging points to where the cable wanted to lie. Only had to drill one hole for the LHS, as there was already one in the right place on the RHS. As you'll see in the photo, the cable is determined to sit against the swaybar bolt, so I'll make up a bracket to locate it there
and prevent it rubbing. That alignment has freed up about 5mm of cable at the brake handle.
"Next up is anchoring the E- brake cable with a custom bracket, otherwise it is too contorted"
My E3 had, and my E28 has, a really good E-brake. When the E9 is identical to the E3, and similar to the E28, why is the E-brake so inferior? Done the bolt and thrust washers conversion for the pivot, and had close-fitting washers welded to the mount to take out the wear in the too-thin metal.
Had the E9 on the hoist a couple of weeks ago and freed up the contorted brake cable, moving both crossmember hanging points to where the cable wanted to lie. Only had to drill one hole for the LHS, as there was already one in the right place on the RHS. As you'll see in the photo, the cable is determined to sit against the swaybar bolt, so I'll make up a bracket to locate it there
Very nice!!! Paint marked bolts
@oldcoupe to the contrary you undercarriage is bone dry and totally unmolested. It is the rare survivor. Thanks for sharing.